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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear arches and sill inspection is the very next job on my list.

I hope it's good to me. Very Happy
 
  
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Gixxer996
Silverstone


Joined: 08 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work mate- making a nice job of it thumbsup
 
  
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maldren
Suzuka


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 1187



PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wasz wrote:

Seriously everyone, remove these rear ward plastic covers, check for rust, pop your sill end caps out and douse in cavity wax before its too late!


Agreed, what do people use nowadays, in years gone by, I used Waxoyl but more recently have sprayed Dinitrol cavity wax, is that still the best solution?

I also use ACF50 or XCP as general purpose sprays on exposed parts.
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Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maldren wrote:
wasz wrote:

Seriously everyone, remove these rear ward plastic covers, check for rust, pop your sill end caps out and douse in cavity wax before its too late!


Agreed, what do people use nowadays, in years gone by, I used Waxoyl but more recently have sprayed Dinitrol cavity wax, is that still the best solution?

I also use ACF50 or XCP as general purpose sprays on exposed parts.


Dinitrol I hear is the best stuff. Best way to buy is the "kits" no ebay - i.e. a kit for an MX-5 should be enough product for a 996.

However I am no chemist but as far as I understand there isn't much in it - its all in the delivery.

It needs to be held diluted in a solvent to make it REALLY runny so it "wets" out any rust and creeps into seams. Obviously lots of solvent means most of the stuff applied will evaporate, meaning you need to apply plenty.

Waxoyl in tins is old school, is thick and and difficult to apply, I think problems come when the waxoyl is not thinned down or heated up to make it really thin, and then people not applying enough of it. Wayoyl can also crack as it dries out (solvent evaporates) leaving exposed bits.

I have a load of aerosol tins of "M8 Cavity Wax" a mate used on another car that still looks fresh after a few years in is sills not cracked and dried out). It comes out really thin and you can get a good coating.

http://classiccarpaintsdirect.com/shop/underbody-protection/m8-clear-cavity-wax-pack-4-x-500ml/

Its probably as good as dinitrol tbh. (Any) Wax is a natural corrosion inhibitor.
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My special order MY99 Vesuvious Charcoal 996 | Clutch, Fly RMS IMS AOS Job |
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maldren
Suzuka


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 1187



PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Wasz,
I'll stick with Dinitrol and my air sprayer which will get right into the sills.

IIRC Waxoyl was thick but used to become very thin if you heated it or used it in hot weather.

Mike
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2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maldren wrote:
Thanks Wasz,
I'll stick with Dinitrol and my air sprayer which will get right into the sills.

IIRC Waxoyl was thick but used to become very thin if you heated it or used it in hot weather.

Mike


Thats the best plan, I didn't have access to a compressor / sprayer so used aerosols with long nozzles taped to a garden cane to get right along the sills.

I started from the rear holes as I could then see how far along the sill I sprayed from the big hole in the front.

I got easily far enough to get full coverage of the sill.

So a compressor is not necessarily needed, but the cavity wax is much cheaper by the barrel so worth doing if you have one.

Liberal application of POR-15:

You can see the little brackets I made of aluminium to replace the corroded steel originals, with stainless screws.

The insides of my sills now look like this loads of cavity wax:


All buttoned up:


These I what I used to repair the undertray fixings:

Little stainless cuntersunk bolts. I used the grinder to make some edges for the glue to get into.

I ground the remainder back on the floorpan.

And stuck them on with a 2 part adhesive called BondLoc, cured in 6 minutes:


I finished with some por-15 over the exposed metal, and held the undertray on with nuts and a washer for those points.

Tomorrow is a big day: wheels on and go drive Driving
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wasz wrote:
Tomorrow is a big day: wheels on and go drive Driving


Hmmm wheels on. clutch works but brake pedal is soft, will have to have a go at bleeding the old school way if I can convince my wife to help.....
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infrasilver
Fast & Furious
Fast & Furious


Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 8473
Location: East Midlands

2001 Porsche 996 Targa

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an easybleed but much prefer and get better results from someone on the pedal.
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Griffter
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 22 May 2016
Posts: 362



PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

infrasilver wrote:
I have an easybleed but much prefer and get better results from someone on the pedal.


I use the one way valve from an easybleed on the caliper, and pump the pedal rather than using the pressurising system on the master cylinder. That gives me good results and enables one-person operation. Just watch for the valve/pipe work coming off (which makes a mess - check every few pedal pumps) and don’t let the level in the master cylinder run too low (ten pumps max between topping up).
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used my gunsons eezibleed kit.

what is this one man valve you speak of?
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I have given up on the brakes, air must be in an awkward spot.

Its going to a local garage for bleeding with their vacuum bleeder.

Since I've ruin out of parental leave they can chuck the new discs and textar pads on too so I can drive the thing at long last.

My neighbour joked I took parental leave to spend quality time with the wrong baby....
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have a newborn baby too?! Surprised

That adds an even bigger element of hero/mad kudos. Grin

I think you and Thom (the lad welding his sills up) deserve some sort of 911uk DIY award, after working in the snow and everything.

At least the car is moving again eh. Had mine out today and it's nice knowing it's in the best mechanical health it has been in for the last 7 or 8 years at least.

You'll be rewarded with a fantastic red hot summer I'm sure. Very Happy
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marky911 wrote:
You have a newborn baby too?! Surprised


He is 7.5 months now and never been in my 996! I've just been getting the odd weekend afternoon on the 996.

Its frustrating because I just set out to do the clutch, that in itself would have just taken a day or two I reckon. But once its jacked up and the box off there is 10000 other things to attend to on a car of this age.

I can't wait to sell the freelander 2 and get driving the 996 daily again. Missing the salted roads this year won't do it any harm though.

Should drive great, I have all recent suspension (everything, dogbones, forked, coffin, rear track, steering arms, roll bar links and bushes, top mounts) over the last 5 years, and now I will have brand new clutch, fly and brand new brakes.

It will drive like new.
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my car back! Brakes are great.

However the idle is wavering around, starting it was tough as it stopped immediately, has to put some gas on.

Anyone know if the DME adaptation reset works for a 3.4 cable throttle? ignition on for 60 secs and then off for 10 secs. Then a few hard pulls through the gears.

or have I got a vacuum leak.... vacuum at oil cap seems normal.
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm Throttle reset didn't do anything.

Car starts then immediately stalls on cold start. Warm start OK.

Add some throttle at cold start and hold it for a few seconds and it will idle.

But it idles high (just over 1000 rpm)

Turn aircon off and it doesn't drop.

Seem to pull well through the gears (no flat spots) and otherwise be fine.

Crank case vacuum is present.

Unplugging maf causes a change in running.

It must be a vacuum leak. The only thing could be AOS connections.... (please no....) or the tiny vacuum pipe I had disturbed that on top, behind the alternator.

Any other ideas?
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kas750
Shanghai


Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 4571
Location: Chorley lancashire

2006 Porsche 911

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wasz wrote:
Got my car back! Brakes are great.

However the idle is wavering around, starting it was tough as it stopped immediately, has to put some gas on.

Anyone know if the DME adaptation reset works for a 3.4 cable throttle? ignition on for 60 secs and then off for 10 secs. Then a few hard pulls through the gears.

or have I got a vacuum leak.... vacuum at oil cap seems normal.

You need to disconnect the battery to reset the early DME but I doubt that is your problem.
It does sound like it could be drawing air.
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7495
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you clear any fault codes ?

Did you have the battery disconnected ?

The car may have a fault which it had previously adapted to but with the above it needs time to re adapt .

Well .. i tryed to come up with other ideas ..

Give it a few miles just to make sure , the aos could have been faulty and the car needs to adapt to the new one .. opposite of above .. you have fixed a fault but its still on the old adaptions . .

Im only aware of a fault code and a clear of said code resetting the adaptions , thats how i do it anyways .. induce a fault .. clear the code .

If not .. i dont think i need to continue here Sad


I prefer your post in the 996 forums .. i keep missing it in here .
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My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .

Thank you all so Very much .

She's not going until july 2020 though .



Mechanic

7pm - 9pm

Now At An Indy.
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi yes the battery was disconnected for the best part of 3 months....i suppose that means all old adaptations were cleared?

I took it to work yesterday and today, cold start stalled, then 20mins B road, 20 mins motorway pulling through the gears, a bit of idling at lights etc.

There was oil residue in the vacuum ports of the old AOS, so i assume that was letting by a little.

How long do they take to adapt....?

Will scan for codes tomorrow.

Not sure how this thread ended up in 996 FAQs, I started it in the main 996 forum....mods?
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2992


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was fumbling around with the AOS, I saw a black and white vacuum valve like in the bottom right of this picture, with one end disconnected just lying on top of the engine.

I just plugged it into a nearby vacuum line end that was also loose....so both ends of it were on thin lines.

However I suspect this should have plugged directly into the intake manifold (no line or pipe), maybe the line I plugged it into was going somewhere else.....this would explain a vacuum leak as the manifold would be open to suck air it.

Is the '99 WITHOUT Secondary air pump vacuum line layout just the same as this:




Perhaps i don't have the reservoir or changeover #2 either?!
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infrasilver
Fast & Furious
Fast & Furious


Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 8473
Location: East Midlands

2001 Porsche 996 Targa

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That black and white valve plugs in to the left of the throttle body into the large intake pipe, there should be a rubber joint between the hard plastic throttle body part and the intake manifold, it has a hole in it to take this valve.

But this also means if you plugged this valve into something else you have another pipe to find a home for.
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