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Used Porsche and Prestige Cars For Sale | Harbour Cars

Do I need to lock the cams?

O

Old_croc1965

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***** Sorry! wrong sub-forum, Newbie error! *****


Couldn't find this in search... apologies if I missed it.

I have a 2007 Cayman S, putting in new clutch. Gearbox is dropped, IMS seal leaking a fair bit and clearly over a period of time. Looks like the very latest Gen 1 bearing with a 22mm bolt into the IMS cover, so the bearing should be bigger than the hole in the engine rear plate.

Logic says I do not need to lock the cams to remove the IMS cover plate and change the seals and have a look at the bearing. The bearing cannot move and the all the internals are fully connected up.

I haven't got cam locking bits and bobs and would rather only get/make them if I need to.

Can I go ahead and only change the seal without the hassle of locking it up?

Thanks!





:?: :?: :?:
 
If i was doing the job then i would lock the crankshaft pully , the hole that looks like a figure 8 .. large hole with a small hole , also a mark for tdc will line up .

I would then remove the tensioners ( lower so ims chain and B1) then replace the ims seal .

If you dont remove the tensioners then you are in a whole world of pain !

The safest way is always to lock the cam when carrying out any work involving removal of the tensioners though so thats what i would have to recomend wether its needed or not .
 

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Thanks, useful. Yes I could feel the tension from the tensioners through the cover (and looking at its shape from the job-sheets confirmed it slides into the centre of the bearing) and realised my error of logic!

Just a point of detail, you wouldn't lock the cams too? With the long bent platey thing? Was under the impression that the chain can jump if not locked?

Cheers
 
The only chain tensioners that potentially will give you grief are those on bank 1 (cyl 1-3) and the engine casing one next to the oil filter for the ims to crank chain.

The tensioner for bank 2 (cyl 4-6) pulls against the ims tube at the front pulley end of the engine but unless you remove the oil pump housing cannot move anywhere.

I assume you will only have one cam locking plate in the kit of timing tools and you cannot lock both banks at the same time anyway by design. With that said I would do the following.

Pull the camshaft plug ends on both banks, turn the engine over until the offset slots on bank 1 cam ends face outwards and line up vertically and then note the pulley position which should allow the the locking pin shown in Demorts pic to be inserted (OT mark on pulley). Place cam locking tool into slots of cams on bank 1, then remove ims crank tensioner, bank 2 tensioner and then bank 1 tensioner.

Now remove ims centre bearing stud nut, ims cover and do the work required as the cover plate won't be under any load.

Once finished with ims bearing flange re-installed replace cam tensioners in order above so last out first in, remove cam lock tool from bank 1 (you know the timing on this side is still good).

Now rotate engine clockwise until pulley is back at OT mark again and you should see the cam slots aligned vertically but this time on bank 2. This will confirm timing is still as it was on that bank.

The only caveat here is if the timing is slightly off by now due to chain stretch (which I bet it is and this may prevent the cam locking tool being fitted) in which case you will need to remove the oil scavenge pumps to adjust it because there are 4 bolts and a slotted chain gear wheel on the ends of the exhaust cams.

See how you go first and let us know.

:thumb:
 
How i do it and how i tell people how to do it will be different , im always in the position to correct something if it all goes wrong .

Info below that i found for a 997 2005 ims seal replacement .
 

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