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Porsche Specialist Surrey, Porsche Specialist London, Porsche Specialist East Sussex, Porsche Specialist West Sussex, Porsche Specialist South

Eccentric bolt removal LCA

D

Drew1209

Spa-Francorchamps
Joined
31 Aug 2016
Messages
261
I'm going to getting the wheel alignment set on my car but I'm going to ensure everything moves first, the only problem I'm having is with both eccentric bolts on the lower arms.

I've gave everything a good spray with ac90, the nut comes off eccentric bolts easy on both but I was wanting to take both bolts out to clean up and lube etc, the eccentric bolt does turn but it looks to me as if it moving the bush with it, I dare say the alignment could still be set up but surely this can't be doing the bush any favours or does this not matter as long as the alignment is correct.

Any tips on removing the bolts
 
If its seized and thats not uncommon then you wont be able to adjust it , it will just twist the bush a bit .

Only solution is normally to cut the bolt off , im lucky to have an electric saw at work but even so its a bit of a pain ..

Theres been several threads about doing this with pictures .. hopefully someone is better at searching here than i am .. i never seem to get the results i want when i search .. sigh .
 
There is alot of movement when turning the eccentric bolt and I can clearly see the bottom arm moving in and out, would I get away with just a set up just now with a view to replacement of things at a later date

The castor bolt is perfectly free and again movement on the arm is perfectly visible
 
Try soaking it with Cillit Bang. It's really excellent at dissolving the corrosion that bonds these things together.

If the bolt will rotate all the way around, and your certain the inner part of the bush is rotating with it, then the bush is screwed as the inner metal tube should be bonded to the rubber bush. If the bolt will rotate all the way around and the inner part of the bush isn't rotating after all, then you stand a very good chance of removing it by taking undoing the nut until it's flush with the end of the bolt, then using a lever such as a jack handle or a crow bar on it to apply pressure to push it out whilst rotating it with a socket/ratchet.


If that doesn't work then you're into the realms of cutting the arm and using an angle grinder to cut through the remains at the inner end.

If you do manage to release the bolt/s then consider replacing with new. I painted mine with hammerite to discourage galvanitic corrosion, then smeared them with copper grease before putting them back in. I also use a thread locking compound to encourage the nuts to stay tight enough for the car not to go out of alignment.

Good luck. Take pictures and let us know how you get on.
 
You may be able to get away with it if they are on the rear, mine are seized but when the toe was set to 0 deg the camber was just over 1 deg which is within limits but you won't know until you pay for your geo so it is a risk.

To remove you need to buy some new eccentric bolts from OPC and maybe get a garage to remove it with oxy or one of these (bit pricey for the home mechanic):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Buster-Heat-Induction-Tool/dp/B00ATSL7VE

Failing that get a hacksaw which a protruding blade and spend hours by hand, or use a reciprocating saw, to cut through the bolts. You will damage the LCA during the process and the centre part of the bolt will still be in-situ so need to source new ones . It's going to be awkward to do on axel stands.
 
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