First job was an easy one.
My Indy and also my MOT guy both reported this, in fact I think it was an advisory at my last MOT.
Rear anti roll bar corroded and bushes worn.
So 4 bolts in the 2 mounting brackets, then a nut onto each drop-link removed and it was off.
Looks like it's been at the bottom of the sea.
I sent it to the powder-coaters with my pulleys and engine bay strip the other week and it arrived back the other day.
I really wanted the black Powerflex bushes as they look more factory standard than the blue ones, but the black ones are on back order for a week or two and I wanted this job finished.
So anyway, anti roll bar and brackets back, black and silver respectively.
There's still some pitting under the powder-coat unfortunately but it's much better than it was and will do for now.
Ready to be refitted.
Can't get a good pic of it fitted but you get the jist.
Looks slightly out of place amongst the tatty old components and undercarriage but that will be sorted over time.
One more note. Have your bar coated then measure the thickness of it once it's back and order the appropriate size bushes.
They always wear oval so my bar was 18.8mm to 19.6mm.
I went for 19mm bushes.
Next this afternoon it was onto what I'd class as my first proper job on the car. Rads and condensers.
I think it's time to fess up to the fact I'd underestimated the work involved in this.
As I type I have the passenger side fully stripped and the drivers side is well on.
It's one of those "how far do you go?" jobs though.
Going to speak to my Indy and see what is usually renewed, eg all hoses? All hose clips? Etc.
I think I've read in the past to ditch the hose clips for stainless jubilee clips but the Porsche spring clips seem to work fine.
Anyway I'll finish the tear down tomorrow, decide what I'm doing and order a load of new fasteners, clips, screws etc.
I'd usually not rush but I have 3 weekends until the car goes to my Indy so I need to not get too carried away.
Anyway no pics yet until I get sorted. Cheers.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Jun 06, 2018 5:56 pm; edited 3 times in total
Yas.SYC4S Silverstone
Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Posts: 145
Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 1:31 pm Post subject:
Bearings arrived the next day, thanks for the advise and help Mark. Checked both idler pulleys and both had play. The top idler was very noisy when spinning freely. When I changed my belt, they seemed okay... failed over the last few drives.
Taken the parts off, cleaned up the Pulleys, just need to pop to a garage and have the new bearings pressed in. Then no more squeaking at the traffic lights
Great job with the anti roll bar! Its crazy how rusty these parts can get!! _________________ Speed Yellow - 996 C4S (EVO Magazine)
Laguna Seca Blue - BMW M3 E46 (2003)
Guards Red - Porsche 924 (1982)
Lachs Sliver - BMW E30 Mtech 1 (1987)
Alfa Red - Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV Mk1 (1969)
I'd rather keep the spring clips too if in good condition. They give even tension all the way round unlike jubilee clips. And they are much easier and quicker to put on and off if you have the right tool.
Powder coat your rad brackets?
Oh and check your fan ballast resisters too, they are probably dud if not changed already, replacements £12 from RS.
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 10:54 pm Post subject:
Goodstuff Yas, let's hope that solves it.
Don't pay too much to have the bearings pressed in. It takes literally 5 minutes.
Any bother and I'll happily do it for you but by the time you pay for postage both ways it'll be as cheap and quicker to pop to your local garage, as you intend.
I'm here if you get stuck though.
You're right about the rust too. I've had a right battle with some of the fasteners and things on mine.
Hi Wasz, yep those clips are a doddle to use. Bit rusty though so I'm still deciding whether to order new ones from Porsche or go for stainless jubilees.
Great minds think alike re the powder coating. This is this weeks powdercoating pile.
Rad brackets
Coolant pipes
Inner arch pipe covers
Horn bracket
Again, I also have the RS Component resistors ready to fit. Thanks for the headsup.
As usual, things are escalating. What started as a simple rad/condenser swap is now full inner arch strip etc.I found a couple of areas of light surface corrosion behind the arch liners and around the top mount area. Not deep or anything but an eye sore.
Spent today dressing it back with a wire wheel attachment on my drill, getting rid of any flaky underseal etc.
I'll use a rust treatment/converter this week, seal, then paint.
That's the benefit and the drawback of doing the work yourself. If you find something you aren't happy with you can sort it, whereas a garage would probably just remove the old stuff and stick the new stuff back in. The downside is you make more work for yourself.
I need to order a big pile of fasteners etc tomorrow. I seem to have removed more items than I have written down on my list to renew, but time will tell.
Anyway next job is to sort through this lot and bin the rubbish.
I hope I can remember where it all goes.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Jun 06, 2018 6:02 pm; edited 3 times in total
maldren Suzuka
Joined: 07 Oct 2016 Posts: 1068
Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 7:53 am Post subject:
Marky911 wrote:
Spent today dressing it back with a wire wheel attachment on my drill, getting rid of any flaky underseal etc.
I use a wire wheel with my angle grinder, it's much quicker and more powerful than the drill attachment but you need to be careful! _________________ Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 10:28 pm Post subject:
Hi Maldren, that's exactly what my dad said but it's only to clean up a tiny bit of browning or bubbling along the odd seam etc. That level of attack would be a bit overkill.
Plus there's some around the strut top area and access is limited there.
You can see below the small areas I'm talking about along the side of the inner arch/outside of the luggage compartment.
I'll treat it with rust converter and primer, then gloss black it all. I'll then give the areas you don't see a coat of wax oil. I'll leave the area of inner arch you do see, gloss black.
Good parcel day today.
I collected my rads - £107 per pair.
I already had condensers - £69 per pair.
My genuine Porsche waterpump arrived.
You can also spot my O rings. £20 for 4! The Porsche tax is strong on those.
I dropped my gear off at my powder coaters but may not get it back for weekend.
Tomorrow I have to order all the fasteners, nuts and bolts for reassembly. No doubt that'll be a fortune.
That's all until I can get stuck back in at the weekend.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Jun 06, 2018 6:07 pm; edited 2 times in total
MMT Monza
Joined: 18 May 2011 Posts: 159
Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:38 pm Post subject:
Marky911 wrote:
Morning MMT,
K&N was on when car was purchased, but I was given the standard box too. I actually have another std box I was given too.
I haven't tried the standard one but I did try std vs K&N when I had my GT3 and to me the scream at the top end with the K&N on far outweighed any drawbacks.
Some people say they suck hot air but it's partitioned/sealed off and uses the original snorkel intake so it can't be too bad.
Again some say you actually lose 2 or 3 bhp but I've not noticed and the sound adds way more to the experience than a few bhp would.
I appreciate its all subjective though, just like whether you prefer red or blue. I may well have a bit of experimenting between standard when I get through everything else though, as there seems to be as many people who don't prefer aftermarket filters, as do.
Sorry for the late reply.
I bought a second hand original air box and when it arrived it had
a K&N panel filter in it. The difference after I had fitted it was night and day in every aspect except sound. The acceleration was so much stronger the clutch started slipping almost straight away.
If you get chance fit the old box and see if you get the difference I did. If you do I think you'll struggle to go back again.
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:59 pm Post subject:
Hi MMT,
I'm sure I'll have an experiment in due course then, once the important stuff is done.
Who knows maybe I'll be bowled over by the standard airbox. It will have to be a revelation though, for me to give up on the induction howl provided by my K&N.
Nothing to report on car. Not much gets done during the week, apart from researching stuff and gathering bits.
JS1500 Monza
Joined: 12 Apr 2017 Posts: 206 Location: Aberdeen
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 8:16 pm Post subject:
Quote:
I collected my rads - £107 per pair.
I already had condensers - £69 per pair.
My genuine Porsche waterpump arrived.
Where did you get the rads and a/c condensors for those sums, please?
Around £75/each was the best I could find a rad.
Did you get the waterpump cheap too? I'm in the market! Cheapest oem i've found is around £150... to be teamed with a low temp thermostat ofcourse. _________________ 2000 996 C4 - Guards Red
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 8:39 pm Post subject:
Hi JS,
My mate Craig got us both a pair of condensers a while back. I've just text him for a link as they've gone from my eBay list now.
They are £59.59 all in but they are local to me so I saved the £5 +vat for delivery off each rad so mine came to £107.
Quality looks great and they're an established company, but time will tell obviously.
I stumbled across a Porsche place having a clear out for my waterpump.
They are about £270 from the main dealers.
Beware though that every man and his dog are listing things as OE these days.
I messaged loads of sellers claiming their pumps were OE genuine suppliers etc yet most came back saying "Metal impeller" which the Porsche ones weren't.
I would only settle for a Porsche part in a Porsche box. It's not worth buying an unknown for the sake of saving £100 or so. It's an important part.
I'll update with a link to the air con rads if I find out where they're from.
They're £10 more now than when we bought them. £79 per pair.
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:26 pm Post subject:
WARNING - Long post, pic heavy!!
Feel free to skim through.
I’d forgotten some of this may have been covered in the last couple of posts but hey ho, just ignore it.
Righto, the car is now at my indy for a boat load of work. No particular faults, simply all of the preventative work I want done for peace of mind.
I’ve owned the car for almost 2 years now and can finally get stuck in and hopefully have it mechanically sound and looking like how I want for next spring. There’ll still be projects such as interior (bucket seats, cup wheel, new belts, etc) and a full suspension overhaul, the latter of which won’t be getting done until next winter (12 months time).
I’ll report on all my Indy’s stuff in a couple of weeks when I get it back, before it went down though I figured I’d “quickly” swap my rads and condensers for the new ones. That would leave the water pump and LTT to my indy along with re-gassing the air-con.
As is usually the way though with 20 year old cars, I found the usual seized fasteners and a few areas of corrosion here and there.
knowing i was working to a timescale I was tempted to just swap the parts I set out to change and revisit things in the spring, but my OCD got the better of me so I got stuck in sorting things out.
There are loads of guides on bumper and rad removal so I wont do a step by step.
Basically Youtube and Pelican Parts are your friend and it’s all fairly self explanatory as you strip the car.
So first of all get the front end of the car up in the air. This aids access and keeps most of the coolant in the system towards the rear of the car.
A quick look in the ducts -
Ducts removed -
Nearside condenser -
Offside Condenser -
I reckon there’s a few years left in those.
It’s always nice to find everything wearing the correct date stamps. I know the car is original anyway but it’s nice to have it confirmed as you strip things.
Condensers removed -
Rads were full of debris along with a strange amount of tab butts. Once cleaned off though they weren’t that bad, surprisingly.
Nearside rad -
After a quick brush -
So then I removed the front wheels, wheel arch liners and dropped out the rad bracket assemblies with rads attached.
You can see the rusty rad brackets and fittings here, still on the car -
Once removed you’re left with this -
And this pile of bits -
So I sorted through it and gathered a pile to go for powder coating -
So once I was at this point I could have a good poke around in the arches and around the front tub area.
All was well in the main. Original and sound, just a bit grubby -
Nearside arch -
As I’ve said though, there was some surface rust starting on a couple of seams, etc. You can see on the seam between the two hoses near the lower front section of the tub -
As with all modern cars the 996 has arch liners which saves a lot of crud getting into all of the nooks and crannies.
On the ares not covered by the liners though, gravel rash had taken its toll over the years.. Mainly a triangular area above the rear of the wheel and the horizontal area around the top mount.
It just looks a bit mucky -
..until you take a wire wheel to it -
The eagle eyed amongst you will see the snapped stud for the wheel arch liner nut. Soak these in WD40 before attempting to undo them. As far as snapping goes, a metal stud should win over a plastic nut, but not when it’s rusted and weakened around the base.
So at this point I removed everything easy to remove from the arches, such as coolant hoses etc and attack the rust, then treat, prime and paint.
More in next part, if you’re still awake.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:52 am; edited 2 times in total
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:29 pm Post subject:
So out came various wire wheels etc and I ground back any corrosion to good metal. Some areas must only be single skinned so you need to be wary of how far to go when grinding.
I couldn’t get right the way in to the top mount area, so I’ll revisit this when I do my suspension overhaul next winter.
Anyway nearside arch ground back -
Nearside seams on front tub ground -
Top mount area ground back -
Offside ground back. It was much better than the nearside. Probably due to less crap in the middle of the road -
At this point I ground off the snapped stud for the arch liner nut, drilled a hole and managed to get a bolt in from the back of the arch to form a new stud.
I then cleaned all other areas of the arches with Tardis to remove any deposits, then wiped it all down with IPA to ensure a clean bare finish.
I wanted to keep the factory under-seal and seam-sealer as it is still fine and to be honest it’s not good to lose all originality from things unless you’re doing a full resto.
Arches cleaned off -
Now it was time to treat it. Now the simple fact is where rust is concerned the only proper way to get rid of it is to cut the metal out and put new metal in. Simple as.
However, this is a huge undertaking and as you can see from my pics we are dealing with surface rust here from stone-chipping, with no holes present and no rot coming from the inside out.
So the simplest form of attack is a rust neutraliser/killer, rust inhibiting primer, then a good thick top coat.
My car sees light summer use and I’ll inspect the arches every spring. I’m pretty sure I’ve managed to fend off the rust for a good few years and kept on top of, it should never get to that stage again.
So brush on the rust remover gel and wait for 20 minutes until it goes black. Then keep repeating until it stops changing colour -
Then when it’s all cleaned off, you’re left with this -
Ok, so various bits primed. You need to do this very soon after treating otherwise any moisture will render your work pointless -
Next post will be the repaint and rebuild. Cheers.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:54 am; edited 1 time in total
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:35 pm Post subject:
So after all that, it’s the topcoat of your choice.
Now the best looking solution would be to spray it body colour, but that would mean loads of masking and is a lot work given the small area you actually see once the wheel arch liner is back in.
So I went with a brush-on gloss black metal paint, fine for primed and unprimed areas. Mine was all primed by this point obviously.
Much less masking and easy to apply. There’s the odd brush mark in it but to be honest it would never look flawless even if sprayed as the factory seam sealer is very textured.
I also chose where to paint up to and where to leave original, as coming back to my originality point, it can sometimes look a bit suspect when all the factory finishes have been tarted up and lost.
Nearside -
Offside -
So that was left to harden, probably between two weekends and in the meantime I gathered all the parts needed for reassembly.
Parts back from powder coating and given a quick coat of wax. The rad brackets are still a bit pitted under the powder coat but they're much better and should last for years now. -
All parts washed and Tardis’d. I also thoroughly scrubbed and rinsed out the coolant pipes I’d had coated, as you don’t want grit from the shot-blasting left in there to enter your engine.
Once clean I dressed all the plastics before refitting -
Paint any small parts like clips etc. These should be sky blue but I only had royal blue. Epic clip colour fail.
Horns -
New rads + condensers -
New fixings. Porsche and Ebay. £75 from Porsche. Not much for the Bay stuff. I’ll try and add links and a picture of my invoice for part numbers later.
New resistors fitted to fans. Annoyingly I lost the ones I bought last year, so I had to order another set. Good job they’re cheap. -
Rad assemblies going back together. Still need to secure the resistors and fit the fan shrouds -
All finished ready to go in. -
Here’s a load of finished/almost finished pics, at various stages -
Offside -
Nearside -
Ok, so that’s about it. Try and ignore my rotten suspension. It ruins the look of the wheel arch areas but that will be remedied with new stuff next winter.
Obviously the car is now reassembled and down at my indy. It will come back in a couple of weeks.
Like I say I’ll add a pic of my parts invoice for the parts I bought, but every car will be different so will need less or more of the stuff I bought.
I was left with 2 of each type of hose clip (pack size was more than I needed) and a good few nuts (one type) that I never needed. Apart from that I used almost everything.
I’d like to say I’m glad that job is done and I don’t want to do it again anytime soon, but while my car is away my mate Craig is bringing his up for exactly the same treatment next weekend, so here we go again.
After that its refurb my callipers red and fit all new seals etc, then refurb my split rims. Then it's onto aerokit and bodyshop.
Anyway, apologies for the long post, but it shows what is involved and I like to keep a record.
Last edited by Marky911 on Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:57 am; edited 3 times in total
Ooooopppppffffhhhhhh..... none genuine resistors ??? How the hell do you sleep at night ??? _________________ Current : Porsche 911 996 C2 Manual With Full Hartech Engine & Gearbox Rebuild
Hahaha.... do what you want !!! Just means you’ll have to have them refurb’d when I donate them to you _________________ Current : Porsche 911 996 C2 Manual With Full Hartech Engine & Gearbox Rebuild
Having done a couple of similar scale refurbs over the years - I know how rewarding and addictive it can be! Looks really good and I love the way you are going about this project. Keep up the good work
Marky911 Indianapolis
Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 2331
Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:40 am Post subject:
Thanks Gixxer, I appreciate the comments.
How are you getting on with yours? Any projects on the go?
Are you taking it off the road for winter or do you use yours all year round?
Get a thread update done anyway. Always good to see what people are up to.
g911omr Spa-Francorchamps
Joined: 29 Sep 2009 Posts: 276
Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 8:17 am Post subject:
Nice work.
The PO had done all this to my car in the last year or so. Just a case of keeping it nice now.
Anyway I have a related question, sort of....
My car has a LTT fitted, however the cooling fans only kick in some way above the thermostat temperature which seems to defeat the object of fitting a LTT in the first place. I'd say that if keeping the engine temp lower at all times is worthwhile, then the fans would want to start working sooner than the factory setting?
Or am I worrying over nothing?''
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