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jimC2
Newbie


Joined: 25 Jan 2009
Posts: 27
Location: Central Scotland


PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 9:26 pm    Post subject: Battery drain - need Auto electrician Reply with quote

I'm experiencing a drain on my battery which occurs when the car is left for 2-3 days without use and proving difficult to identify what's causing it. Local garage has checked major components/likely culprits but can't seem to get to the core problem and was wondering if anyone could recommend a good Auto electrician in Central Scotland. Thanks.
 
  
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RWD_cossie_wil
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Posts: 346
Location: Stourbridge, West Mids


PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have an hour or two to spare, get a cheap multi meter & measure the battery drain with the car locked, should be seeing less than 0.1 of a volt. If you have a high drain, sit in the car with the doors shut & locked, & pull each fuse out in order, seeing if the drain drops off. Usual suspects are interior/ engine bay/front luggage compartment lights staying on, central locking components & heater fans etc. Always worth sitting in the car when it's quiet to see if you can hear anything running that shouldn't be!
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Harv
Suzuka


Joined: 18 Sep 2014
Posts: 1040



PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you had anything done to the car recently?

I had a similar problem last year and was a failed ign switch
 
  
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toohey
Monza


Joined: 22 Jan 2009
Posts: 162
Location: Naarfolk


PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

be aware that the Lambda sensors do a burn cycle for up to 30mins after the car has been on - this can make chasing any potential battery drain quite difficult! Demort knows the ins and outs of it and explained it in my exhaust fitting "trying to find a switched live in the engine bay thread"

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=116061&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

Toohey
 
  
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T8
General
General


Joined: 29 Jun 2010
Posts: 12580
Location: Kent


PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has it got an old 'tracker' fitted Question

See this thread => http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=98437&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=tracker

Note particularly what came out of my car. Surprised
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2007 Guards Red 997 Turbo Tiptronic
ex 2004 Polar Silver 996T Tiptronic
ex 2002 Seal Grey 996.2 C4 Tiptronic
ex 1978 Silver 924 Manual
 
  
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3113
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Op if you want a run through of what to check and how then im happy to write one .. but i get the feeling you are more after an electrician in your area .

Im the opposite end of the country im afraid so have no suggestions there .

Im not sure if Locosaki knows anyone though , hes in Fife i belive .
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jimC2
Newbie


Joined: 25 Jan 2009
Posts: 27
Location: Central Scotland


PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. Whilst I've undertaken some major jobs on cars in the past when things were so much simpler I.e. Mark 1 Escorts & old MG's, Electrics are a bit of a black art to me so will continue to seek out a decent Electrician.
 
  
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Jamesx19
Monza


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 183
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies to the OP for the hijack....,

I have the same issue with my C2. I haven't got round to investigating the problem yet, but have checked where the drain is coming from by pulling fuses. E7 appears to be the culprit. Its the circuit for the instruments and a few other things. 2 amp draw means the battery doesn't last long!

I'm thinking it's an old tracker as there are documents which relate to one being fitted in 2005. Any ideas where these are usually fitted? Im was going to look in the front luggage bay, or under the dash. Anywhere else to try?

Cheers
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3113
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ill pm you as i cant say Tracker locations on here .
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Jamesx19
Monza


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 183
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Demort
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Jamesx19
Monza


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 183
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Demort
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Gurmot
Trainee


Joined: 23 Jun 2016
Posts: 62



PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has developed the same problem. Battery has been checked by a battery specialist with a discharge ammeter. I recharge it, drive it and all seems fine, park for 2-3 days and the remote blipper wont unlock the car. Unlock with the key and the window won't drop, then the alarm goes off.

I'm competent with a test meter but would appreciate any tips on common faults please.

Thanks
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Judder
Trainee


Joined: 14 May 2016
Posts: 74
Location: London W2


PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had exactly this problem - battery dead after 2 / 3 days

Weirdly in my case the on/off buttons for the heated / fan cooled seats are actually on the seats, rather than on the dashboard as the manual says

Had the car around my brothers house with my two nephews pressing all the buttons and noticed a whirring noise after I got back to the car...

Turned out they had turned the fan button on the passenger seat, so I turned it off and noticed that my drain was that the heater button was also on!

Turned it off on the seat - all fixed ever since

Obvious I would have thought, especially as I know quite a lot about electronics, but worth checking just in case

PC
 
  
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Gurmot
Trainee


Joined: 23 Jun 2016
Posts: 62



PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine doesn't have heated seats so this can be ruled out.

I have ordered a DC clamp on ammeter and will have a go at the fuse pulling trick.

I have read some accounts of the voltage regulator (part of the alternator) can develop a fault whereby current can flow back from the battery - diode failure? I'm thinking about order a regulator pack to change as a precautionary measure as I believe these are around £40 or so for a genuine Bosch item - although not sure how easy it is to change and if the alternator needs to come out for this........
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Captain Lockheed
Nürburgring


Joined: 19 Dec 2014
Posts: 404
Location: Bristol


PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/400mm-automotive-current-standard-blade-type-tester-n48cy

A blade fuse ammeter is useful for these sorts of jobs.
You can get cheaper and more expensive ones (and ones for micro fuses), ir just a lead set for a multimeter _ I am sure you get the idea...
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Gurmot
Trainee


Joined: 23 Jun 2016
Posts: 62



PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Captain Lockheed wrote:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/400mm-automotive-current-standard-blade-type-tester-n48cy

A blade fuse ammeter is useful for these sorts of jobs.
You can get cheaper and more expensive ones (and ones for micro fuses), ir just a lead set for a multimeter _ I am sure you get the idea...


Thank you! I had not seen these before and I can see how this would help with this sort of job Thumb
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3113
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use something called an amp hound ..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amp-Hound-Voltage-Drain-Tester/dp/B00M7S28MQ

Not the cheapest tool around but it saves haveing to pull fuses .

Do a discharge check and post the values you get .. on a 996 you will have to wait at least 30 mins and probably 60 mins to get an accurate reading ..

996 do a lambda sensor burn off for approx 30 mins so the readings will be high untill it stops .

A pulsed discharge of approx 1 amp could indicate a tracker has been fitted and the battery has failed.

Very high discharge of say 4-6 amps and its seat adjustment motors.

I expect you will have 1 - 1.5 amp discharge and i would start with the PCM , amp etc ..

Remove and unplug the PCM to see if it drops .

Alternator .. hmm .. ive seen it once on a Cayenne , discharge of 1 amp .. very rare if its that .

Have a quick check under the passenger seat .. make sure its not damp or water bottles stuck there that might be leaking .

If you pull fuses then DONT pull any alarm ones .. dead meter and painfull ears at that point !

To test i open the drivers door and drop the catch so its locked , ignition on and connect your meter , then lock with a double press of the key to turn off interior monitoring .

Or just drop the door lock and as above but dont lock and wait till it goes to sleep .

I prefer the locked way as thats how the drain would normally be but either way will work and less chance of an alarm trigger if you dont lock it .

Alarm trigger tends to blow a standard meter as its 10 amp rated .. ok if you have a higher or surge protected meter though.
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Gurmot
Trainee


Joined: 23 Jun 2016
Posts: 62



PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you please explain what "drop the door lock" and "drop the catch" mean?

Thanks
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July 2002 C2 Tiptronic with M030.
 
  
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3113
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lock in the door which closes and holds the door shut ..

with the door open you use a screwdriver to push the lock closed.

The car will now think the door is shut so can be locked ot left and it will go into sleep mode .
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Gurmot
Trainee


Joined: 23 Jun 2016
Posts: 62



PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gurmot wrote:
Mine doesn't have heated seats so this can be ruled out.

I have ordered a DC clamp on ammeter and will have a go at the fuse pulling trick.

I have read some accounts of the voltage regulator (part of the alternator) can develop a fault whereby current can flow back from the battery - diode failure? I'm thinking about order a regulator pack to change as a precautionary measure as I believe these are around £40 or so for a genuine Bosch item - although not sure how easy it is to change and if the alternator needs to come out for this........


Update after a little investigation at the weekend:

I measured the voltage difference with the engine running (cold):

Alternator body to airbox ground stud = 0v
Battery voltage vs alternator (at airbox and jump start stud) = 0.3v

I also bought a voltmeter which plugs into the aux socket and I've left it in as I can easily read the voltage without unlocking the car. This reads about 13.7 - 13.8v at start up and slowly drops to around 12.8v once the car is warmed up (say 20 minutes).

After switching off the engine the voltmeter immediately drops to 12.4v and then decays to 12.2v within 5 minutes (key still in and dashboard illuminated).

I checked about 4 hours after driving and it had dropped to 12v and was the same this morning.

Latest thinking is that it may not be parasitic drain and more likely to be a charging issue (battery has been discharge load checked by a specialist).

Questions:

What should the output voltage of the alternator be and should this be stable or is it normal for it to drop whilst driving?

Assuming the voltage is too low for an effective charge, is this more likely to be caused by a duff alternator, a duff regulator, high resistance connections, slipping alternator drive (is there a clutch on the pulley?)?

Thanks
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