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kas750
Paul Ricard


Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 3312
Location: lancashire

2006 Porsche 911

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blimey! Very Happy
Nice work and glad to see your still in one piece. thumbsup
 
  
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911tom
Albert Park


Joined: 22 May 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Buckinghamshire


PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice works rags. Have to say though those cable ties look really scary!
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996 Turbo - Link to my 3.8L turbo build thread
2011 Cayenne
2009 Ariel Atom 3 Supercharged
350Bhp astra van for work Surprised
 
  
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

911tom wrote:
Nice works rags. Have to say though those cable ties look really scary!


Yeah the cable ties are actually pretty naff. The gorilla tape is something else though! The tensile strength of the stuff is absolutely incredible!
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996 turbo - slightly modified....
986 S - usually in pieces: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=112626
 
  
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DynoMike
Barcelona


Joined: 25 May 2012
Posts: 1275
Location: The Cotswolds

2003 Porsche 996 Turbo

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeez rags, you have some balls mate! No fingers, but some mighty kahunas Grin
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Previous toy 1974 Mini 1000
 
  
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know me Dyno... all the gear but no idea!
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986 S - usually in pieces: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=112626
 
  
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Stoo.c
Trainee


Joined: 07 Apr 2014
Posts: 77
Location: Hertfordshire


PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out of interest - what ramp is that you use? I'm thinking of getting something similar myself. Is it full height?
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02 996 C4S
93 Skyline R33 GTS-t
91 CRX vtec turbo
01 986 Boxster S
 
  
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paul987
Albert Park


Joined: 27 Feb 2015
Posts: 1515
Location: east mids


PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised wow RagP
I would imagine you needed the help of J Hunt to make the cuts needed to remove all those cable ties Laughing Hand
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2001 996 C4S - Silver
2006 987 Boxster S 3.2 - Guards red
 
  
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stoo.c wrote:
Out of interest - what ramp is that you use? I'm thinking of getting something similar myself. Is it full height?


Hello mate, I use this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-SCISSOR-CAR-LIFT-VEHICLE-LIFT-RAMP-HOIST-3000Kg-MID-RISE-PLATFORM-/262941916413?hash=item3d388f3cfd:g:SpgAAOSwe7BWuv7n

I've got to be honest its probably the best £16-1700 I've ever spent. I'm lucky enough to have lots of room around all sides of the lift so I'm never in a compromised position with it. It lifts to about 1.5m I think which is plenty of room underneath. I have a little wheely stool to glide around under the car when I'm doing bits.

In just the past few weeks i've serviced a Range Rover, done pads and discs on a RR sport, serviced a clio, done a crash repair and re-sprayed a car, serviced a T5 transporter and done the front springs on the boxster. As you can see its always in use!

@phil987: Mad Now now, you clearly know my feelings on that goober Hand

Grin Wink
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986 S - usually in pieces: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=112626
 
  
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coullstar
Montreal


Joined: 15 Sep 2015
Posts: 522
Location: Aberdeen/Torphins


PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those cable ties.....hahaha. Jobe done though I suppose.

Hows it sit with the H&r springs? Looking at getting myself a higher mileage S as well so I best go through this thread for some hints and tips.
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The start of a big overhaul today...

For the past few weeks there has been a horrible smell of coolant from the front of the car and I've had to top the coolant up once or twice. When I did the a/c condensers last year I noticed that the nearside rad looked like it was on its way out but I didn't have any rads to replace it with so just thought I'd leave it for a while.

Well its lasted about 12 months before starting to disintegrate.

I had noticed some of the rust coming back on the nearside wing which I treated and painted last year, so I bought a replacement wing and have decided to just perform a transplant and get rid of the disease rather than trying the 'chemo' approach again.

Its also 3800 miles since it last had an oil change and since I regularly drive it hard and as intended I thought it wise to do a little service whilst I'm at it.

So the plan is to do an oil service, replace the drive belt, front rads, remove nearside wing, good look around the car for any signs of corrosion, remove and treat as appropriate, underseal the chassis areas in need, replace wing, rear disc, pads, handbrake springs, tidy up bodywork, re-spray, sand, polish. Depending on how good the progress is I may also fit new suspension all round but will have to see how I get on.

bumper and liners off

Looks like my suspicions were well placed..

Very leaky



Original centre rad still in perfectly useable condition

Offside rad not in bad nick at all but being replaced nonetheless

For Sale: 1 lightly used 9*6 rad... Any takers??

New offside rad on and back together

Then I whipped the front wing off after removing the whole rad assembly and the washer bottle (in the exact same place on the other side as the carbon cannister)

3x10mm bolts holding it in place behind washer bottle


Everything out of the way

Old wing whipped off....

And this is why:






Then a good clean and a wire wheel to any/every area of surface rust


Meanwhile quick oil change and inspect the old filter:
Considering this engine is on >100k miles and spends most of its time at the redline 3 tiny silver specks in the entire of the filter is very pleasing!

And thats about it for today. I'm waiting for some Bilt Hamber rust treatment products before I put the new wing on etc. I plan on getting it all back together and painted etc over the next 2 weeks... More to follow!
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New997buyer
Yas Marina


Joined: 17 Oct 2010
Posts: 8038



PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

worship awesome work RPU thumbsup
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"Imagination will often carry us to worlds that never were. But without it we go nowhere...but....other things being equal, it is better to be smart than to be stupid."
Carl Sagan

997.1 turbo
Ex 996.2 turbo, 996.1 C2
 
  
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alex yates
Shanghai
Shanghai


Joined: 06 Mar 2014
Posts: 10987
Location: Lancashire

2000 Porsche 996 Carrera 4

PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New997buyer wrote:
worship awesome work RPU thumbsup



Agreed.
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And so onto stage II of the major update.

One of the most frustrating things about this job was removing the old shocks from the hub carrier. The old suspension was on 140k+ miles and had been driven all year round so its not surprising that things were corroded together.

One of the common questions I see asked on forums is how to remove the upper drop link bolts which also act as pinch bolts to hold the shocker in the hub carrier. As expected mine were corroded in place too and I had a hell of a job removing them. The 'easy' way to remove them in this instance is to heat the plastic part of the droplink and pop it off the end of the bolt to reveal the ball joint. Then slide a deep 17mm socket over the end. I used an impact gun to turn it whilst using a hammer on the other end to knock it through. This only worked once I'd got the aluminium housing red hot with the use of an oxyacetylene type torch.



Then you need to loosen the innermost coffin arm bolt and remove the 3 top mount bolts. You can then push the shocker down and get the top of it out from under the wing. Then using a lump hammer and a lot of industrial language you smack the hell out of the bottom of the shocker to try to push it up and out of the carrier.

Viola!:


Whilst I was doing this I got a few deliveries...




Once I'd removed the front shockers I started building the new ones back up. I took the opportunity to buy new top mounts and bearings. As you can see the old top mounts were in a dire state


As were the old bearings


I built the shocks up with new H&R sports springs before re-installing them into the hub carrier


Whilst doing this I rust proofed everything I came across which needed it


Unfortunately it wasn't just the shocks and drop links which were corroded, even the bolts holding the ABS/Brake sensor in place sheared and needed re-tapping. Progress seemed to be like wading through treacle at times


At about this point I put the new wing on, got it lined up and got all the panel gaps to factory tolerances:





I noticed the litronic height arms were broken front & rear so ordered replacements


Now, the front and rear shockers fit into hub carriers which are identical to each other. The front left carrier is the same as the rear right one, and vice versa. Therefore there are the same issues with seized drop link bolts and shock removal with the rears as there is on the front. Unfortunately this is only the start of the tale with the rears. There is no way to remove the rear shocker by just pushing down, this truly is a mammoth task:

1) undo handbrake cables - this can be done inside the car (easier) or at the hub (risky as they'll be rotten) - the handbrake cables live underneath the little armrest cubby hole


2) Remove drive shafts. Again, the easy way is to remove them from the gearbox. If you're a sadist you can remove the wheel hub nut


3) Open the engine compartment and rear boot, find the 3 hidden top mount nuts and remove them:



4) Remove the calliper and all associated fittings (including drop links, brake and ABS sensors)


5) Remove inner coffin arm bolt, remove tuning fork arm bolt, remove track arm from carrier,

and then this happens


At this point I was wondering if I would be able to get it all back together!

Forge onwards, get the sledgehammer out again and beat the shocker out of the hub carrier




Same deal here, strip the shockers down, treat any rot I find, rebuild new shockers with new springs:


Rot treatment on top mount
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Uk963x]



Installation is reverse of disassembly, not forgetting new drop links


Whilst in there at the back I thought I'd swap the old discs and pads out and have a look at the handbrake which hadn't been at its best lately

Ahh yes, you can see the right hand shoe isn't held down by a retaining spring. That'll do it


New spring


New discs


New CV boots and put everything back


As I was putting things back together, rot struck again! Not only did I need to make 3 new brake pipes, but the fitting on one of the brake hoses was so corroded I couldn't get around it. New brake hose ordered


And then down for geo




Before taking the dog up to Captain Cook's monument


And what a difference! Its like having a new car. I'm loving the FSD shockers and the new springs. I haven't noticed the car being any lower - probably due to the old ones having sagged so much - but there is much less body roll and a notable increase in stiffness whilst still having a lovely compliance so not to rattle your teeth. Thumb

Next step is paint. TBH I am that tired after a full week doing this I may get my friend (a bodyshop owner) to paint it for me. It will only cost me another £200 for him to do it by the time I'd bought the materials, and it saves me several days graft. I reckon I've easily saved £200 by doing all this lot myself.
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986 S - usually in pieces: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=112626
 
  
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HSC911
Sepang


Joined: 23 Jul 2014
Posts: 2969
Location: Bedford


PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mechanic


worship
 
  
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New997buyer
Yas Marina


Joined: 17 Oct 2010
Posts: 8038



PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spot on Doc. AND a record run. Good week Sir Salut
_________________
"Imagination will often carry us to worlds that never were. But without it we go nowhere...but....other things being equal, it is better to be smart than to be stupid."
Carl Sagan

997.1 turbo
Ex 996.2 turbo, 996.1 C2
 
  
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you kind gentlemen! Thumb
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996 turbo - slightly modified....
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BHZ661
Österreich


Joined: 03 Feb 2015
Posts: 989
Location: Milton Keynes


PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top work and great write up as always thumbsup
 
  
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3341
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent work and write up once again young man .. i sit here carefully studying each picture and smileing as i know the " fun " you have just had on that particular part .

Your comments are what i hear every other day .. its never just one thing that breaks or wont come undone .

The front link rods .. if you cut the ball joint off you can get a smaller socket on it .. it delivers more power with an airgun and might help remove that bolt. You tend to work it back and forth .

I know from experience just what a difference replaceing shocks and rods to a car makes .. its pretty huge !

Thank you for continueing to post .. it always makes my evening Smile
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7pm - 9pm
 
  
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DynoMike
Barcelona


Joined: 25 May 2012
Posts: 1275
Location: The Cotswolds

2003 Porsche 996 Turbo

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top work Andrew! At this rate it won't be too long before you are cracking a lump open to have a prod and poke about Surprised Very Happy
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ragpicker
Paul Ricard


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3091
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DynoMike wrote:
Top work Andrew! At this rate it won't be too long before you are cracking a lump open to have a prod and poke about Surprised Very Happy


Hand Grin

The trouble is that my prodding and poking usually involves crow bars and lump hammers.... Although one of my lumps will be being cracked open in the autumn..... Question

@Demort, thanks dude, I re-read this from start to finish the other day and am really pleased with how its turning into a useful resource for any DIY boxster owners out there Thumb
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