Blimey!
Nice work and glad to see your still in one piece.
911tom Watkins Glen
Joined: 22 May 2012 Posts: 2050 Location: Buckinghamshire
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:37 pm Post subject:
Nice works rags. Have to say though those cable ties look really scary! _________________ 996 Turbo - Link to my 3.8L turbo build thread
2011 Cayenne
718 Cayman GTS
350Bhp astra van for work, semi-retired from daily duties
2009 Ariel Atom 3 Supercharged SOLD but never forgotten
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:38 pm Post subject:
911tom wrote:
Nice works rags. Have to say though those cable ties look really scary!
Out of interest - what ramp is that you use? I'm thinking of getting something similar myself. Is it full height? _________________ 02 996 C4S
93 Skyline R33 GTS-t
91 CRX vtec turbo
01 986 Boxster S
paul987 Kyalami
Joined: 27 Feb 2015 Posts: 1907 Location: east mids
Posted: Mon May 01, 2017 10:57 am Post subject:
wow RagP
I would imagine you needed the help of J Hunt to make the cuts needed to remove all those cable ties _________________ A truly wise man never plays leapfrog with a Unicorn.
2001 996 C4S - Silver
2006 987 Boxster S 3.2 - Guards red
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Posted: Mon May 01, 2017 11:30 am Post subject:
Stoo.c wrote:
Out of interest - what ramp is that you use? I'm thinking of getting something similar myself. Is it full height?
I've got to be honest its probably the best £16-1700 I've ever spent. I'm lucky enough to have lots of room around all sides of the lift so I'm never in a compromised position with it. It lifts to about 1.5m I think which is plenty of room underneath. I have a little wheely stool to glide around under the car when I'm doing bits.
In just the past few weeks i've serviced a Range Rover, done pads and discs on a RR sport, serviced a clio, done a crash repair and re-sprayed a car, serviced a T5 transporter and done the front springs on the boxster. As you can see its always in use!
@phil987: Now now, you clearly know my feelings on that goober
Those cable ties.....hahaha. Jobe done though I suppose.
Hows it sit with the H&r springs? Looking at getting myself a higher mileage S as well so I best go through this thread for some hints and tips. _________________ 1999 C2 Coupe - http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=124107
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 2:59 pm Post subject:
The start of a big overhaul today...
For the past few weeks there has been a horrible smell of coolant from the front of the car and I've had to top the coolant up once or twice. When I did the a/c condensers last year I noticed that the nearside rad looked like it was on its way out but I didn't have any rads to replace it with so just thought I'd leave it for a while.
Well its lasted about 12 months before starting to disintegrate.
I had noticed some of the rust coming back on the nearside wing which I treated and painted last year, so I bought a replacement wing and have decided to just perform a transplant and get rid of the disease rather than trying the 'chemo' approach again.
Its also 3800 miles since it last had an oil change and since I regularly drive it hard and as intended I thought it wise to do a little service whilst I'm at it.
So the plan is to do an oil service, replace the drive belt, front rads, remove nearside wing, good look around the car for any signs of corrosion, remove and treat as appropriate, underseal the chassis areas in need, replace wing, rear disc, pads, handbrake springs, tidy up bodywork, re-spray, sand, polish. Depending on how good the progress is I may also fit new suspension all round but will have to see how I get on.
bumper and liners off
Looks like my suspicions were well placed..
Very leaky
Original centre rad still in perfectly useable condition
Offside rad not in bad nick at all but being replaced nonetheless
For Sale: 1 lightly used 9*6 rad... Any takers??
New offside rad on and back together
Then I whipped the front wing off after removing the whole rad assembly and the washer bottle (in the exact same place on the other side as the carbon cannister)
3x10mm bolts holding it in place behind washer bottle
Everything out of the way
Old wing whipped off....
And this is why:
Then a good clean and a wire wheel to any/every area of surface rust
Meanwhile quick oil change and inspect the old filter:
Considering this engine is on >100k miles and spends most of its time at the redline 3 tiny silver specks in the entire of the filter is very pleasing!
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 2:33 pm Post subject:
And so onto stage II of the major update.
One of the most frustrating things about this job was removing the old shocks from the hub carrier. The old suspension was on 140k+ miles and had been driven all year round so its not surprising that things were corroded together.
One of the common questions I see asked on forums is how to remove the upper drop link bolts which also act as pinch bolts to hold the shocker in the hub carrier. As expected mine were corroded in place too and I had a hell of a job removing them. The 'easy' way to remove them in this instance is to heat the plastic part of the droplink and pop it off the end of the bolt to reveal the ball joint. Then slide a deep 17mm socket over the end. I used an impact gun to turn it whilst using a hammer on the other end to knock it through. This only worked once I'd got the aluminium housing red hot with the use of an oxyacetylene type torch.
Then you need to loosen the innermost coffin arm bolt and remove the 3 top mount bolts. You can then push the shocker down and get the top of it out from under the wing. Then using a lump hammer and a lot of industrial language you smack the hell out of the bottom of the shocker to try to push it up and out of the carrier.
Viola!:
Whilst I was doing this I got a few deliveries...
Once I'd removed the front shockers I started building the new ones back up. I took the opportunity to buy new top mounts and bearings. As you can see the old top mounts were in a dire state
As were the old bearings
I built the shocks up with new H&R sports springs before re-installing them into the hub carrier
Whilst doing this I rust proofed everything I came across which needed it
Unfortunately it wasn't just the shocks and drop links which were corroded, even the bolts holding the ABS/Brake sensor in place sheared and needed re-tapping. Progress seemed to be like wading through treacle at times
At about this point I put the new wing on, got it lined up and got all the panel gaps to factory tolerances:
I noticed the litronic height arms were broken front & rear so ordered replacements
Now, the front and rear shockers fit into hub carriers which are identical to each other. The front left carrier is the same as the rear right one, and vice versa. Therefore there are the same issues with seized drop link bolts and shock removal with the rears as there is on the front. Unfortunately this is only the start of the tale with the rears. There is no way to remove the rear shocker by just pushing down, this truly is a mammoth task:
1) undo handbrake cables - this can be done inside the car (easier) or at the hub (risky as they'll be rotten) - the handbrake cables live underneath the little armrest cubby hole
2) Remove drive shafts. Again, the easy way is to remove them from the gearbox. If you're a sadist you can remove the wheel hub nut
3) Open the engine compartment and rear boot, find the 3 hidden top mount nuts and remove them:
4) Remove the calliper and all associated fittings (including drop links, brake and ABS sensors)
5) Remove inner coffin arm bolt, remove tuning fork arm bolt, remove track arm from carrier,
and then this happens
At this point I was wondering if I would be able to get it all back together!
Forge onwards, get the sledgehammer out again and beat the shocker out of the hub carrier
Same deal here, strip the shockers down, treat any rot I find, rebuild new shockers with new springs:
Rot treatment on top mount
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Uk963x]
Installation is reverse of disassembly, not forgetting new drop links
Whilst in there at the back I thought I'd swap the old discs and pads out and have a look at the handbrake which hadn't been at its best lately
Ahh yes, you can see the right hand shoe isn't held down by a retaining spring. That'll do it
New spring
New discs
New CV boots and put everything back
As I was putting things back together, rot struck again! Not only did I need to make 3 new brake pipes, but the fitting on one of the brake hoses was so corroded I couldn't get around it. New brake hose ordered
And then down for geo
Before taking the dog up to Captain Cook's monument
And what a difference! Its like having a new car. I'm loving the FSD shockers and the new springs. I haven't noticed the car being any lower - probably due to the old ones having sagged so much - but there is much less body roll and a notable increase in stiffness whilst still having a lovely compliance so not to rattle your teeth.
Next step is paint. TBH I am that tired after a full week doing this I may get my friend (a bodyshop owner) to paint it for me. It will only cost me another £200 for him to do it by the time I'd bought the materials, and it saves me several days graft. I reckon I've easily saved £200 by doing all this lot myself. _________________ 996 turbo - FOR SALE, Price reduced: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=131025&highlight=
986 S - usually in pieces: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=112626
955 Cayenne Turbo - a work in progress: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=131286&highlight=
HSC911 Long Beach
Joined: 23 Jul 2014 Posts: 6755 Location: Bedford
Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 2:44 pm Post subject:
New997buyer Banned
Joined: 17 Oct 2010 Posts: 9150
Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 4:56 pm Post subject:
Spot on Doc. AND a record run. Good week Sir
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Joined: 03 Feb 2015 Posts: 1335 Location: Milton Keynes
Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 10:48 am Post subject:
Top work and great write up as always
deMort Dijon
Joined: 21 Mar 2015 Posts: 7589 Location: Brighton
Posted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 6:34 pm Post subject:
Excellent work and write up once again young man .. i sit here carefully studying each picture and smileing as i know the " fun " you have just had on that particular part .
Your comments are what i hear every other day .. its never just one thing that breaks or wont come undone .
The front link rods .. if you cut the ball joint off you can get a smaller socket on it .. it delivers more power with an airgun and might help remove that bolt. You tend to work it back and forth .
I know from experience just what a difference replaceing shocks and rods to a car makes .. its pretty huge !
Thank you for continueing to post .. it always makes my evening _________________ .
My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .
Thank you all so Very much .
She's not going until july 2020 though .
7pm - 9pm
Now At An Indy.
DynoMike Albert Park
Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 1576 Location: The Cotswolds
Top work Andrew! At this rate it won't be too long before you are cracking a lump open to have a prod and poke about _________________ 2003 996 Turbo
Previous toy 1974 Mini 1000
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 7:10 am Post subject:
DynoMike wrote:
Top work Andrew! At this rate it won't be too long before you are cracking a lump open to have a prod and poke about
The trouble is that my prodding and poking usually involves crow bars and lump hammers.... Although one of my lumps will be being cracked open in the autumn.....
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wow RagP
Now now, you clearly know my feelings on that goober 
bumper and liners off
Looks like my suspicions were well placed..
Offside rad not in bad nick at all but being replaced nonetheless
For Sale: 1 lightly used 9*6 rad... Any takers??
New offside rad on and back together
3x10mm bolts holding it in place behind washer bottle
Old wing whipped off....
Considering this engine is on >100k miles and spends most of its time at the redline 3 tiny silver specks in the entire of the filter is very pleasing!
awesome work RPU 
