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What to do first????

Mark Houghton

Well-known member
Joined
2 Sep 2013
Messages
65
Hi All,
My SC has 140k on the clock (yes still as the odometer as stopped working) I've probably done 3k miles in it and will at some point order the little plastic part for $27 and get it running again.

The positives: -
Fires up first time every time since a new battery
Runs lovely apart from a slight misfire at low revs
Looks fabulous from the outside.
Interior is in super condition with only slight wear on the driver seat.

The negatives: -
Both sills are bubbling towards the rear.
The front wing is bubbling under the headlight and needs replacing. Previously repaired in the 90's.
Engine leaks oil about an egg cupful every two weeks.
Exhaust leaks slightly and heat exchangers don't seem to work as no heat in cabin (Not that this is a problem for me)
1st to 2nd gear changes have to be done nice and easy with clutch right in otherwise it crunches (I'm used to it now so not a problem for me.

I'm not bothered about the car being in showroom condition. All I want to do is keep it on the road and drive it every now and again for fun. After all I only paid 8.5k for the car and I am the 14th owner so its not going up in value any time soon.

So what would be the best order of things to do? Engine, gearbox, bodywork, exhaust?

I love this car and would be happy to spend about 10k on it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Mark
 

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Mechanical bits first, then bodywork I'd suggest.
 
New engine mounts improved the gear change on mine. But there may be more to yours than that.
 
Honestly, 10k wont start to touch doing the bodywork properly never mind sorting out the running gear and just patching it up makes no sense either..Move it on!
 
To me it does not sound too bad.

Bodily the sills can be plated and finished so the end result cannot be seen. That leaves the wings which are available 2nd hand or if yours are salvageable, a quick blast to remove all the crud and plated.

That leaves a respray to finish and it will look like a new car.

Not too expensive at all.

You can live with the oil leak, the crunchy gears can be left until you cannot select any! and as you have said you can live with that and the lack of heat, which could be something as simple as a fuse, so reading between your lines all that is needed is a patch up and paint job so the car will match the interior.

:grin:
 
kas750 said:
Honestly, 10k wont start to touch doing the bodywork properly never mind sorting out the running gear and just patching it up makes no sense either..Move it on!

+1

I'm boring myself with scaring people now, but PLEASE get a proper bodywork inspection and quote FIRST from somewhere that specialises in these older 911's.

My 3.2 had a rebuilt engine, new clutch and rebuilt box, but it's bodywork quotes were coming up to double what you paid for your car, so I moved on. It would have been cheaper to buy a sound, painted body with no engine or gearbox!

Reading your post and what was needed I was convinced you were the Mark that bought my car! until I saw it was white.
:)

Is there any corrosion on the laminated bumpers? under the windscreen? Under the battery? Behind the B pillars and kidneys? Around the rear lights?

I love these older 3.2 and SC cars, but so many have the same issues now, I guess that's why the minty restored one's are £20k+, for what it's worth, I had an agreed Insurance valuation lined up that would have added the £16k I needed to spend to the cars value, I kidded myself that made it ok to spend the money.
:grin:

Enjoy driving it mate, I spent too much time costing up the bubbles on mine.
:thumbs:
 
Mark Houghton said:
Exhaust leaks slightly and heat exchangers don't seem to work as no heat in cabin (Not that this is a problem for me)

Mark

lack of heat in the cabin is maybe down to rusted up heater flap valves under the car (next to the exchangers) or snapped / stretched cables. I used to have the opposite problem. Flap valves rusted through meaning constant sauna conditions inside :?:
 
clarkycat said:
kas750 said:
Honestly, 10k wont start to touch doing the bodywork properly never mind sorting out the running gear and just patching it up makes no sense either..Move it on!

+1

I'm boring myself with scaring people now, but PLEASE get a proper bodywork inspection and quote FIRST from somewhere that specialises in these older 911's.

My 3.2 had a rebuilt engine, new clutch and rebuilt box, but it's bodywork quotes were coming up to double what you paid for your car, so I moved on. It would have been cheaper to buy a sound, painted body with no engine or gearbox!


Reading your post and what was needed I was convinced you were the Mark that bought my car! until I saw it was white.
:)

Is there any corrosion on the laminated bumpers? under the windscreen? Under the battery? Behind the B pillars and kidneys? Around the rear lights?

I love these older 3.2 and SC cars, but so many have the same issues now, I guess that's why the minty restored one's are £20k+, for what it's worth, I had an agreed Insurance valuation lined up that would have added the £16k I needed to spend to the cars value, I kidded myself that made it ok to spend the money.
:grin:

Enjoy driving it mate, I spent too much time costing up the bubbles on mine.
:thumbs:

Thanks for your reply, I had the car MOT'd the other day and took the opportunity to have a good look underneath etc. I couldn't find many areas of rusting at all. Also the main oil leak seems to be coming from the oil tank pipe work so not as bad as I thought. Small amount of bubbles on front bumper ends, nothing in the other areas you mentioned. Car only failed on exhaust leak, track rod end/ball joint cover split, headlight beam and an indicator repeater bulb so all in all I'm well pleased!
 
graemeho said:
Mark Houghton said:
Exhaust leaks slightly and heat exchangers don't seem to work as no heat in cabin (Not that this is a problem for me)

Mark

lack of heat in the cabin is maybe down to rusted up heater flap valves under the car (next to the exchangers) or snapped / stretched cables. I used to have the opposite problem. Flap valves rusted through meaning constant sauna conditions inside :?:

My next job once I get her thru MOT. Thanks for advice.
 
red5 said:
To me it does not sound too bad.

Bodily the sills can be plated and finished so the end result cannot be seen. That leaves the wings which are available 2nd hand or if yours are salvageable, a quick blast to remove all the crud and plated.

That leaves a respray to finish and it will look like a new car.

Not too expensive at all.

You can live with the oil leak, the crunchy gears can be left until you cannot select any! and as you have said you can live with that and the lack of heat, which could be something as simple as a fuse, so reading between your lines all that is needed is a patch up and paint job so the car will match the interior.

:grin:

Thanks and you're right - it's not that bad at all!
 

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