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My Vesuvio(us) Metallic 911 996 C2
- Thread starter wasz
- Start date
I had the same trauma as this guy getting the rear toe link rod eccentric adjuster bolt out: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40660-cant-remove-the-rear-toe-adjustment-bolt-eccentric/
4 hours with a hacksaw left me with this:
TRW arm was only £43, Porsche relieved me of £18 for a new eccentric bolt / nut / washer....
I think I will let a garage do the other side.
4 hours with a hacksaw left me with this:
TRW arm was only £43, Porsche relieved me of £18 for a new eccentric bolt / nut / washer....
I think I will let a garage do the other side.
.
You can buy a coloured cream for those seat.Mine are same colour, and the bolster was faded,came up a treat ebay £14.
The aircon leak, is likely to be the condensers.I just did mine, and also that pipe you mention.Condensers are a breeze.That pipe is a pain.The joins are ally and the allen screws steel.So, what with oxidisation, a *****.Had to use heat on mine.Also, removing it means disassembling half of the car.
Good luck!! :sad:
You can buy a coloured cream for those seat.Mine are same colour, and the bolster was faded,came up a treat ebay £14.
The aircon leak, is likely to be the condensers.I just did mine, and also that pipe you mention.Condensers are a breeze.That pipe is a pain.The joins are ally and the allen screws steel.So, what with oxidisation, a *****.Had to use heat on mine.Also, removing it means disassembling half of the car.
Good luck!! :sad:
wolfie.0771
Silverstone
- Joined
- 14 Feb 2014
- Messages
- 124
They look better!! :rocker:
tikkathree
Montreal
- Joined
- 18 Aug 2013
- Messages
- 539
wasz said:I couldn't wait:
Spiffing!! :worship:
Since I got the car Ive been looking out for a subtle headunit that will read MP3s off a USB stick library (can't be faffed with iphone connection all the time).
Sorted a Kenwood BT92SD that has a proper volume knob, not too many buttons and illumination that matched the orange of the car. Best of all you stick a big SD card in it so a USB stick isn't poking out all the time:
Display goes off after a period:
My stealth USB / Aux:
In other news this is hopefully why my idle is hunting and it frequently throws enrichment fault codes - AOS bellows split (look to have been leaky for some time!). More air is getting in than the MAF is metering.
Plan to follow the excellent guide by steveoz at the weekend: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=61942
Sorted a Kenwood BT92SD that has a proper volume knob, not too many buttons and illumination that matched the orange of the car. Best of all you stick a big SD card in it so a USB stick isn't poking out all the time:
Display goes off after a period:
My stealth USB / Aux:
In other news this is hopefully why my idle is hunting and it frequently throws enrichment fault codes - AOS bellows split (look to have been leaky for some time!). More air is getting in than the MAF is metering.
Plan to follow the excellent guide by steveoz at the weekend: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=61942
Uh oh, a pile of TRW boxes can only mean one thing....
... More suspension work. New inner and outer steering track rods, with new rack boots. also fitting new ARB bushes and NSF droplink as they will be the last front suspension item to be changed.
Got the old ones off (no special tools required, I used grips to unscrew the inner track rod, and threadlock when installing the new). Since I was renewing the ARB bush as well I releases the forked control arm for better access.
This means my front suspension is ALL brand new in the last 20,000 miles. The idea of replacing my 118k mile inner track rods was to cure a knock on the steering when the car is hot after an hour or so of driving. I'll do the other side tonight and then I will know if it has cured it.....
... More suspension work. New inner and outer steering track rods, with new rack boots. also fitting new ARB bushes and NSF droplink as they will be the last front suspension item to be changed.
Got the old ones off (no special tools required, I used grips to unscrew the inner track rod, and threadlock when installing the new). Since I was renewing the ARB bush as well I releases the forked control arm for better access.
This means my front suspension is ALL brand new in the last 20,000 miles. The idea of replacing my 118k mile inner track rods was to cure a knock on the steering when the car is hot after an hour or so of driving. I'll do the other side tonight and then I will know if it has cured it.....
Car looks great, keep the wheels Silver. classic and original.
I've recently changed all the coffin arms and tuning forks and could not believe the difference in the way it now feels. I'd recommend getting a full geo setup on something like a hunter (haggled kwick-fit down to £60) because mine was well out once fitted.
I've recently changed all the coffin arms and tuning forks and could not believe the difference in the way it now feels. I'd recommend getting a full geo setup on something like a hunter (haggled kwick-fit down to £60) because mine was well out once fitted.
A top tip when bleeding our brakes of a certain age:
The nipples WILL be stuck and and WILL shear off if you use a spanner or ratchet. Do take the time to do this with every nipple, you don't want to risk shearing:
Use a small hammer and tap the top of the nipple as many times as you can stand (don't go taking swings just little taps). This will start to deform the top of the nipple but don't worry.
Pour a kettle of boiling water slowly over the nipple (don't pour it on your feet).
Tap the nipple some more with your little hammer. Blow the hot water away and spray a little plus gas.
Keep tapping away for a few minutes.
Use a 6-sided (i.e. NOT a 12 point) 11mm socket to avoid rounding and use with a T-bar handle. DO NOT USE a ratchet or spanner.
A T bar is important to use with both hands and transfer all the effort into turning the nipple- if you use a spanner or ratchet they also have a sideways motion that will snap the nipple off.
Gently rock the nipple in tight and loose directions.
Then it should undo OK.
Replace the nipple with a new one and tape the top portion of thread with PTFE tape and some grease to avoid stuck nipples in future.
The nipples WILL be stuck and and WILL shear off if you use a spanner or ratchet. Do take the time to do this with every nipple, you don't want to risk shearing:
Use a small hammer and tap the top of the nipple as many times as you can stand (don't go taking swings just little taps). This will start to deform the top of the nipple but don't worry.
Pour a kettle of boiling water slowly over the nipple (don't pour it on your feet).
Tap the nipple some more with your little hammer. Blow the hot water away and spray a little plus gas.
Keep tapping away for a few minutes.
Use a 6-sided (i.e. NOT a 12 point) 11mm socket to avoid rounding and use with a T-bar handle. DO NOT USE a ratchet or spanner.
A T bar is important to use with both hands and transfer all the effort into turning the nipple- if you use a spanner or ratchet they also have a sideways motion that will snap the nipple off.
Gently rock the nipple in tight and loose directions.
Then it should undo OK.
Replace the nipple with a new one and tape the top portion of thread with PTFE tape and some grease to avoid stuck nipples in future.
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