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Garage door opener retrofit DIY.

I think I've figured out a solution - been doing my head in. We need to reverse the polarity of the LED (the white square one that connects on Pin 1 of the P switch) - means removing it and resoldering back on the opposite way round. Then connect the OE switch through pins 1 and 2 of the P switch leaving pins 3 and 4 disconnected.
Anyone up for trying this before I retrieve mine from the car.

Actually thinking on - has anyone tried connecting just 1 and 2 both polarities to see if this works without switching the LED round?
 

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not sure what you meant there, is it now working and what did you do?
 
Yeah - Working,
Forget about pins 3 and 4.
Wire your OE remote switch to pins 1 and 2 on the P switch - you need the correct polarity, so may need to switch the cables around. Press the button and the orange LED comes on. Some times it helps to draw out the problem - Once I did that the solution became apparent.

Clanky - suggest you cut your pin 4 and you will probably see that 40% LED restored to 100%.
 

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so you left the internals of the switch alone and connected

Pin 1 - ?
Pin 2 - ?
 
markiii said:
so you left the internals of the switch alone and connected

Pin 1 - ?
Pin 2 - ?

Correct - See my crude circuit diagram above for the switch - it was only once I'd drawn those two out that I realised the only difference was the polarity that changed and that could be done at the remote end.

Pin 1 to OE switch, Pin 2 to other side of OE switch, depending upon polarity the remote and LED will either both work or both won't work.
 
halfway house then it will light and show that the battery is working/not or switched jammed/not, but won't confirm transmission

still that's better than I currently have will give it a go
 
That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash
 
That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash
 
That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash

Apologies for the triple post - new phone.
 
Gollom122 said:
Yeah - Working,
Forget about pins 3 and 4.
Wire your OE remote switch to pins 1 and 2 on the P switch - you need the correct polarity, so may need to switch the cables around. Press the button and the orange LED comes on. Some times it helps to draw out the problem - Once I did that the solution became apparent.

Clanky - suggest you cut your pin 4 and you will probably see that 40% LED restored to 100%.

Makes sense to me.
Does that mean the Porsche switch has that resistor in line to drop the voltage from 12v to around 3v for the LED?
I have a feeling that's why I took the power for the LED piggy backed off the remote PCB.
I was worried that sending 12v through it would likely work for a while but would eventually fry the button LED.
 
Gollom122 said:
The P switch will be 12v as is my remotes battery.

Mine too, but the voltage to the LED is reduced to 3ish volts to avoid burning it out.
I assume the resistor on the PCB of the Porsche switch does the same job?
 
depends upon the spec of the LED - not looked too closely, however I would suspect in the P that all LED's are 12v.
 
That will work but the resistor for the LED will reduce the voltage across the remote switch, presumably this doesn't matter. Anyone found a 'lights on' supply up in the panel ? It could be used to light the diode through pin 3 and 4 with perhaps isolating the common between 2 and 3 to keep the remote in isolation.
 

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