Garage door opener retrofit DIY.

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

yeah the way that's shown is pin 1 on the left to 4 on the right

Pin 1 goes to the the resistor and from there to the copper pad to its left, from there it goes underground and emerges at the copper pad over by the LED on the right. That LED has the top left (as shown) pin connected to the copper pad and all the other 3 solder points are common and connect to pin 4 which is the common

Pin 2 goes to the switch pad and then underground to Pin 4 (Common)

Pin 3 goes to the second resisitor and the on to the LED on the left (top contact). the bottom contact then goes underground to the common pin

Pin 4 is the common

bertyw · 7 Sep 2013

Would pin 3 be for switched power for night illumination, and the right led triggered by the switch ? Is there a socket in the roof panel to take the switch as a after market add on ? Permanant lighting is obviosly a wired in option.

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

Apologies for my previous comments regarding your degree and my GCSE. I have just received my new remote which I have started to wire up and I am also stuck.
My prep was to confirm wiring as previously mentioned in this thread. Applying 12v battery to the switch terminals I determined that pin1 to Neg and Pin 4 to + illuminated the Orange LED permanently. Wiring Neg to Pin 1 and + to Pin 2 illuminated the switch LED when switch depressed. So from this I deduced that in order to operate the remote with the switch I should wire 4 and 2 to the remote switch, however I cannot get the LED to work with switch. Having looked at your photo of the switch, I think the switch may need to be modified, unless clanky can offer words of wisdom how he got his to light up (or not perhaps).

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

bertyw said:
Would pin 3 be for switched power for night illumination, and the right led triggered by the switch ? Is there a socket in the roof panel to take the switch as a after market add on ? Permanant lighting is obviosly a wired in option.

on my non homelink equipped car there is no spare plug, but your theory is probably correct as lighting it up at night would make finding the button much easier in the dark

however if I put power across pin 3 manually nothing happens unless of course its just a very faint light only noticeable in the darkest

ok just checked that and your correct, the 3rd pin is night illumination. the LED on the switch lights a very pure whit only noticeable in the dark.

doesn't ultimately solve my issue but good to know

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

I think the diodes in the switch need bypassing with a jumper wire from 2 to 1 installing.

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

Gollom122 said:
Apologies for my previous comments regarding your degree and my GCSE. )

No problem I barely passed it 20 years ago and have barely used it since

Gollom122 said:
I have just received my new remote which I have started to wire up and I am also stuck.
My prep was to confirm wiring as previously mentioned in this thread. Applying 12v battery to the switch terminals I determined that pin1 to Neg and Pin 4 to + illuminated the Orange LED permanently. Wiring Neg to Pin 1 and + to Pin 2 illuminated the switch LED when switch depressed.

Are you sure that's right? Pin 1 has to be LED +ve to get the LED to light at all.

Gollom122 said:
Having looked at your photo of the switch, I think the switch may need to be modified, unless clanky can offer words of wisdom how he got his to light up (or not perhaps).

that's the conclusion I'm coming to though looking at the terminals I'm not quite sure how to get to do so.

I'm rather hoping Clanky tells us he didn't bother about the LED as for the life of me I can't see how he did it

ultimately if only the switch works its not much of a loss, as the LED on the remote I already have is stupidly placed and you end up covering it with your thumb when pressing the button so can't currently see it anyway

it would be nice to fix it though

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

Gollom122 said:
I think the diodes in the switch need bypassing with a jumper wire from 2 to 1 installing.

does that achieve anything that connecting them together externally doesn't?

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

Pin 4 not Pin 1 - now edited and updated correctly.

It's the diodes that are the issue - a straight jumper 1 to 2 will do nothing, but if we take pin 2 with a jumper to the LED that pin 1 feeds I think it will work. Gonna give it a try now.

bertyw · 7 Sep 2013

I've discovered that my remote works by cutting 12v across the switch not making it and obviously the other side does not go to ground. I guess I will just use pins 2 and 4 and ignore the diodes.

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

I think the problem is the fob uses common positive, and the switch common negative

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

tried it - did'nt work

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

thought it might not, surely all that achieved is giving an easier path for the current to get to the common terminal than going through the led, and thus bypassed it completely?

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

It works - Just needs tidying up a bit - I was looking at the wrong LED

markiii · 7 Sep 2013

Maxie said:
markiii said:

nope think I'm going to need t hand my electronics degree back at this rate

Click to expand...

I gave mine back a long time ago! :floor:

My switch is on order from Hatfield OPC whom reports 'there have been a backload of these orders in the last few days - what's going on?' :grin:

God knows how I am going get mine to work if Markiii can't!

~ Maxie

funny enough I had a similar conversation with Katie on Thursday about some guy who has started a run on 997 3rd rad kits. Your name may have come up

Gollom122 · 7 Sep 2013

job done

Garage door opener retrofit DIY.

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