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Jonttt's 993 C4S Journal

Re: TPMS Preparation

jonttt said:
TPMS

Stage 1 - Sourcing and Tyre valve stem preparation


Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (or TPMS) is a technology that is becoming more and more common place.

Back in the late late 80's early 90's it was a new technology. In fact the Porsche 959 was the first passenger car fitted with a TPMS system.

Early basic systems saw some luxury cars fitted with a system that measured the rotational speed of a wheel and could detect a tyre that was losing pressure from a reduction in overall diameter and subsequent affect on rotational speed (ie a smaller diameter wheel has to rotate faster to to achieve the same linear speed). This basic system is known as iTPMS (i for indirect as it uses the ABS wheel speed sensor fitted outside of the wheel itself so cannot provide actual pressure readings) For example my 2001 BMW Z3m has such a system fitted but it was only during the last year or so of production of Z3's that the system was fitted.

The technology has moved a long way and now many cars are fitted with systems that can accurately measure and display both tyre pressure and temperature whilst providing warnings to drivers beyond predefined boundaries. So far as I know TPMS will be mandatory on all new passenger cars in the near future.

I learned a long time ago the benefits of correctly set tyre pressure especially on performance cars and not just for the obvious reasons but it can have a massive effect on tyre wear. I once went through 4 sets of front tyres on a Mini Cooper S Works in 20,000 miles only to discover the tyre pressure had been completely wrong all the time !

The end result is that I am now paranoid about correctly set tyre pressures. Given some of my cars are nowhere near daily drivers and I feel as though I am checking tyre pressures manually every time I drive them.

So when I purchased my 993 one of the first projects I set myself was to identify and install a TPMS system.

The industry standard way of fitting a TPMS system (including OEM) is for small lightweight sensor / transmitters to be fitted within the tyre attached to the bottom of the valve stem. There is an alternative method using metal straps which are secured around the alloy (within the tyre). I did not really explore the metal strap option as I wanted to try an OEM style install.

Initial research showed that the first stumbling block I would encounter would be due to the fact that I have Hollow Spoke alloy wheels :pc:
These use a none standard tyre valve stem which is both longer and thinner than "normal".

As most TPMS kits come with valve stems adapted to secure the TPMS sensors onto then I would need to find either a suitable valve to fit or adapt the Hollow Spoke Stems.

I narrowed the choice of TPMS to the TyreSure (a rebranded Orange) system. This is a few years old now but well proven, they manufacture OEM sensors (not Porsche) and their retrofit kit is offered for sale by Porsche resellers.

The UK retail price for the system is c£170 but I managed to secure an Ebay purchase (via Malta) for <£100 delivered of a new sealed kit.

It is worth noting that the x4 tyre sensors / transmitters have built in batteries which are none replaceable ie you have to replace the whole sensor when the battery goes. They are marketed as having a 7 year operational life but I am always sceptical of such claims as they tend to be maximum in ideal conditions etc... Plus they have no "on/off" switch and I do not know how they "sleep" etc... (edit: I believe they "sense" rotation) so I have taken a chance purchasing what could be old stock with a shorter shelf life. But for my initial trails I was happy with the significant discount.

TPMS system received....




The kit is made up of x1 display unit for inside the car with a USB cigarette socket power lead, x4 sensors / transmitters for attaching to the tyre valve stems, x4 adapted standard tyre valve stems, x4 securing screws.




My car has had the standard 993 4S "solids" upgraded at some point in its life to "Hollow Spokes" but there is no history to show when this happened. I therefore have no ideal how old the current valve stems are. As these special valve stems use rubber seals I decided it would be easier / quicker / safer to buy x4 new valve stems from Porsche...... but they are not cheap so factor in c£40 for a set of 4.




So I set about closer examination of how the kit is supposed to work and how I could get it to fit to the Hollow Spokes.

This is how a kit valve stem fits together....








Essentially it is a standard valve stem with a ball socket at the end. The ball socket has a hole drilled through it (to maintain air flow through the valve) which is tapped to accept a screw. A hollow (to maintain the air way again) screw is then used to secure the sensor / transmitter to the valve stem.


If you compare the kit valve stem to the OEM Hollow Spoke stem you can see that the stem is both too wide to go through the valve hole in the Hollow Spoke alloy and it is not deep enough to sit on the outer and inner edges of the alloy.






I had read on the internet that some people had got around this problem by fitting the ball joint from the kit valve to the OEM valve but this would mean a much longer securing screw would be needed.

I did not see the need for this. Although the OEM valve does not have a ball joint it was basically the correct diameter to fit into the socket on the sensor and allow rotational movement for adjustment when fitting and be secured by the screw. So I thought I would give a direct connection a go by simply drilling and tapping the OEM valve......




There was a big unknowns ie would the OEM valve accept a 4mm wider hole and retain integrity ? Only one way to find out......

Ideally this would be carried out with a bench drill but I don't have one so a vice would have to do......

I started off by drilling a "half way house / pilot hole" using a dremel and 3mm drill (the biggest I had for a dremel).




This went through easily and you realise there is an internal "step" in the hole diameter so the 3mm drill only needs to pass through a few mm.

I then used a standard drill with 4mm bit. Again internet research implied a 10mm hole but I was worried that this would affect the strength of the valve stem so I went with what I thought was enough to allow secure attachment of the screw.






The drilling process went well and I am as happy as I can be that there was no detrimental effect on the strength of the valve stem from the increased diameter hole.

So it was then a striaght forward process of tapping the hole with an M5 x 0.8 thread.....






Once tapped the securing screw (using a T20 torx driver) could be tested to ensure enough thread to secure (and to help clear excess metal swarf)....






It was then a matter of trial fitting and to see if the unit could be put together and secured without the need for a ball socket....... I found that the securing screw actually ended up being too long. Rather than drill the hole deeper and risk weakening the valve I decided to simply pad it with a nut.

Once tightened this worked really well. The unit can be tightened as securely as the original kit valve.....




So it was simply a matter of repeating for the other 3 units....




So that leaves 2 stages to go:

1) fitting of the tyre valves (requires tyre fitter to remove tyre, fit new valves with sensors attached, refit wheels and balance

2) fitting of the display unit inside the car (I will trial via cigarette lighter socket and then hard wire in)

I'm off on holiday for a while though and my car is still having some jobs done on it so those stages will need to wait a few weeks............

ps I have no idea how easy it is to fit the kit valves to none Hollow Spoke 993 Alloys (eg Cup II's or solid spoke turbo twists). If they fit then obviously none of the above adapation of OEM valve stems is needed ;-)


OK time for an update on the TPMS install........

I've had the sensors fitted by my local underground tyre fitter on the "dock road". You know when you are in a salubrious place when the large sign on the wall states "Polite Notice to all Customer - NO SPITTING". I joke not :eek:

To be fair the guys where great, both taking car of the wheels including how they jacked the car up and spending some time with me "fine tuning" the sensor fitment.

For reference I paid £40 for fitting the sensors, balancing and a repair to one of the rear tyres which we found a nail through the centre.

The problem we faced on fitment was that as the valves where secured in place ie tightened to the correct torque so that the rubber seals were air tight the sensor did not have enough tolerance to the wheel. In effect the nuts I had used as spacers where very slightly too big and did not allow enough screw thread past the sensor. We solved this by using a combination of washers to allow us to fine tune the sensor securing screw fitment.

Here is one the sensors securely fitted....




So you can fit adapt the hollow spoke valves by simply drilling and threading and then using the standard TPMS kit sensor securing screw. You just need to ensure you have enough suitable washer to fine tune the spacer distance to fit.

So job done :hand: :x

Turned the system on and .............. one sensor not working :pc: :sad:

So a little research, dialogue with the manufacturer (in Tiawan which was fun) etc..... and I have established the following.......

The Orange (Tyresure) system was modified (read improved) sometime in 2012. Prior to this date the sensors worked as follows (bear in mind these are sealed units so once the battery is fitted in manufacture there is no off button) -

- ambient air pressure = sleep mode (ie very little power useage but some)

- tyre pressure (ie when fitted) the sensor permanently sends a signal every 30 seconds even when the car is parked up.


The change to the system in 2012 was to use a more intelligent "G series" sensor which work as follows......

- ambient air pressure = sleep mode (ie very little power useage but some)

- for 24 hour after installation = transmit every 30 seconds

- car speed under 30km/hr Then transmits 3 times every 10 minutes

- car speed over 30km/hr transmit every 20 seconds

- fault detected transmits every 30 seconds even when parked


Here is the crunch = the newer G series intelligent sensors are not backward compatible and cannot be connected to the older display units :pc:

So armed with this information I am assuming as I bought mine "cheap" off eBay it is probably old stock using the older sensors. If this is the case then although in sleep mode is as per the new sensors it will be older and hence one of the sensors has probably run out of power.

I will therefore need to order a new sensor but the old type. I can get these for c £35 delivered from Tiawan but am waiting for the UK distributor to quote me happy :D or not :judge: It will then cost me £10 to get it fitted which should be a 5 min job as the adapted valve is already fitted.

This leaves the dilema of the other valves ie how long will the batteries last in those if one has gone :?:

I have decided just to replace the faulty / dead battery one. Hopefully this will allow me enough time to test the system and see how much I like it. First impressions (albeit with 3 tyre readings) are excellent. If I get a real benefit from the system then I will probably stump up for a full newer system using the G series sensors which I can get for c£110 from Tiawan. Those will suit my needs better as my car will spend long spells not being driven so battery life should be much longer.

I now just have to work on fitting the display in the car and permanent wiring :thumb:

More to follow when I finish the job :bye:
 
Jonttt,

Can you share where u found the NOS 993 badge. Unless that was a one off.

Tim
 
I dicided to try and fit the bonnet badge today using the gasket I had. It was not as hard as I thought it would be and I just retained the gasket in place during fitting with some very thin double sided tape.

The gromet/retaining nut design has obviously changed at some point as the original ones effectively screwed into the rear badge pins but the new ones just had a very soft / sticky rubber which the pin pushes through.

In the end it took all of 2 minutes to change the badge.

You can see on the original badge where the enamel had started to discolour.....






and the new badge fitted....

 
I'm almost there with the interior of the car now. I have been "de Blueing" it and the final piece was to replace the blue handbrake lever.

Now a new standard handbrake is c£290 :eek: so once again I was on the eBay bargain trail and chuffed to bits when I sourced a perfect black item for <£100 delivered :)

It is second hand but as new and even still had the metal attaching rod which you usually need to transfer over from your old handbrake lever.




So on with the install............

This is a very easy DIY and just a little fiddly lining up holes etc.... when refitting.

Firstly remove the rear storage tray / cassette holder in the normal way. This then reveals two securing screws for the handbrake undertray. The 3rd retaining screw is under the handbrake itself but is pretty easy to get at.




Look how much crap is in the screw indent :eek:




You can then slide the base cover over the handbrake lever (helps if handbrake raised and gear stick in 1st to give more room)




I found the obligatory coin under there :roll:




Now to get the old handbrake out.......

You have to remove a retaining clip (just use a flat head screwdriver to lever out as you pull it up)






once the retaining clip is removed you can knock through the main retaining bolt






Then it is simply a matter of removing the two adjusting bolts from the rear of the mechanism (nb the back one acts as a lock nut for the first so unscrew that first to give the other room to unscrew).....








As the nuts get towards the end of the rod they are attached to you can start to pull the handbrake lever forward to allow room for the nuts to be unscrewed off.......




Then I noticed my car had made another 1p. Who says widebodies don't make money :hand:




anyway both nuts removed....




You can now pull the handbrake lever fully free.....




At this point you will get a big piece of metal fall out and you will panic "what have I broken" :oops:
Don't worry it the ratchet mechanism which is easy to put back into the new handbrake lever for refitting.

The original handbrake lever with a 964 part number...




If your fitting a brand new handbrake lever you would now have to swap over the metal rod to the new one but my second hand one already had this fitted so saved me a job.

Refitting the new lever is a simply reversal of removal but first you need to get the ratchet back in place in the lever. There are only two ways it can go and the right way is so the teeth mesh with the handbrake correctly and the small retaining indent is visible at the bottom. This indent slides under the metal bar below the handbrake which you have probably not noticed is there yet......








Here you can see how the indent go under the metal bar on the car to secure the ratchet mechanism in place during refitting.....




So now its simply a matter of pushing the metal rod back in place just enough to place the two nuts back onto the thread.

Then push the handbrake so the main retaining bolt can be pushed back through whilst at the same time ensuring the ratchet indent is under the metal bar (its easier than it sounds). Once the main securing bolt is through the lever you can put its retaining clip back in place.

Now simply do the rear adjusting nut up to you get 4 to 5 ratchet clicks to fully engage the handbrake. Once its right then do up the rear locking nut to fix it in place.

Put back the under tray (reversal of removal) and the job is done.

The finished install........




I'm really pleased with how this has all come together. I remember sitting in the car when I was deciding whether to purchase or not and telling myself to see past the sea of blue. Its now as I imagined it and probably my perfect spec inside ie full leather and two tone dark blue / black :D
 
I managed to fit in a 2 hour blast in the glorious sunshine today. Stayed off the local coast roads (full of tourists) and stuck to my favourite B roads.

The car is really beginning to feel like mine now, I just love it. They really are just such a solid feeling car on the road and boy do they get some looks from passer by :)

One things has become clear, I looooooove the MPL clutch slave cylinder. Now that I'm used to it it really has transformed the drive of the car for the better making it a much easier and even more pleasurable driving experience.

I am still smiling an hour later thinking of that glorious engine noise on full chatter mid overtake with full height brambles roadside wrapping the sound around the car...... fantastic
ps thats something I just could never do in the F430, widebody or not these cars just feel so nimble on the narrow B roads. The Ferrari's feel massive in comparison.
 
That's a very good point. Even in widebody form, these cars are actually pretty small compared to most of today's offerings.
 
Some of the overtakes I did today I would not have attempted in a larger car !
 
Was going to fit the sill trims today but.......... too nice so did a few "chores".

I grabbed a couple of pics on my iPhone whilst out on my travels.........










and the best thing is I got to drive it as well :bandit:
 
I finally got around to fitting the engine air filter and cabin pollen filters yesturday.

For the pollen filters I followed OC's great little guide HERE

This is one of those fiddly little jobs that would take you 5 minutes when you've done it once but the first time I spent 20 minutes and some swear words trying to get the cover back on the first one :damn:

However once you realise you have to try and drop them in from as square above as possible and get a certain part dropping into a grove then its dead easy :roll:

Trim removed to reveal a nice clean area to work




LHS Pollen filter cover off




New and old for LHS




New and old for RHS




New RHS pollen filter fitted




I have no benchmark to know if these needed changing or not. Compared to normal air filters they look not too bad but by changing them now at a known date / future driving I can check them and compare to the ones I have taken off over time.


and then to one of the easiest maintenance jobs you will get on most engines = change the engine air filter

my "sport" engine air filter cover to be removed by simply releasing two clips and pulling off a rubber hose...




Old and new filters for comparison. This filter definately needed changing...




and fitted in place




the view from the air intake when the cover is replaced




Another couple of OCD jobs off the list :D
 
Some more goodies arrived yesturday.......


Whilst I was changing the handbrake lever last week I had chance to examine the under tray more closely and it did not meet OCD standards :roll:

So I decided to get a replacement but thought it worthwhile getting a carbon fibre one to match the gearstick.....

I sourced one from Eurocup GT but ended up getting the matching rear RS tray as it was cheaper to buy the two together :roll:

I was expecting a carbon wrapped item (ie OEM tray wrapped) so was very pleased to get genuine carbon fibre.

However there were two issues. Firstly they only sent the handbrake tray and not the rear RS tray :pc: but also there is a slight flaw in the carbon top finish which I have rejected.

I have spoken to them on the phone today and they where very polite, apologised for getting the order wrong and are sending out replacement items today and I will return the one I have. I'm a great believer in anyone can make mistakes its how you deal with them that matters. so far so good.

Here is the Handbrake tray. You can clearly see the genuine carbon fibre weave. It is very light and strong but you can also see the slight flaw on the left hand side (a bit is raised)....








The second item I bought off them was a strut brace. I've ran strut braces on most of my performance cars and even body and butt braces on some (although I have had to remove the body and butt braces off my roady due to clearance issues).

This one seems very well finished and is very light so will be interesting to see if it makes any perceivable difference on the twisties. I'm sure it will look cool though :)

I'll post up more when I get the chance to fit it. The only difficult bit should be getting a neat cut in the boot carpet for it to fit through.

My daughter thought it was a new toy when I unpacked it :hand:






Surprisingly prices for Porsche Strut braces seem cheap compared to good BMW ones for some reason :dont know:
 
Another eBay bargain :D

I only have a couple of spaces left for stamps in the cars service book but had read that new service books where hard to get hold of. So I've had it in my mind to speak to my local OPC (which is not that local) about sourcing one. I was pleasantly surprised one day last week when logging into eBay to find a brand new (still sealed with OPC stickers) was advertised for sale at £16 Buy It Now. I could not click on the BUY button quickly enough :D. I think these are c£25 from an OPC (if they can get them) and I would have been prepared to pay a lot more which is what I call a real bargain :bandit:



 
Front Strut Brace

Front Strut Brace fitment:

Firstly for those who are not sure what the purpose of a font strut brace is on a 993 here is the theory.....

"A strut bar, strut brace, or strut tower brace (STB) is used in conjunction with MacPherson struts on a monocoque or unibody chassis to provide extra stiffness between the strut towers.
With a MacPherson strut suspension system (where the spring and shock absorber are combined in the one suspension unit), the entire vertical suspension load is transmitted to the top of the vehicle's strut tower. In general terms, a strut tower in a monocoque chassis is a reinforced portion of the inner wheel well and is not necessarily directly connected to the main chassis rails. For this reason there is inherent flex within the strut towers relative to the chassis rails.
A strut bar is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering which ties the two towers together and reduces chassis flex. To accomplish this effectively (especially on MacPherson strut suspensions), the bar must be rigid throughout its length."

These are usually easy installs as on most cars the top of the front suspension is easily accessible. The main issue can be clearance over the engine ie on most cars there is an engine between the front suspension towers which the bar needs to clear yet allow the bonnet to close. Of course this is not an issue with a 911 so there is no excuse for clearance issue in the design of a strut brace for the car.

So installation is simply a matter of removing the relevant top suspension nuts to allow fitment of the bar, lining it up and cutting the boot carpet to allow it to be refitted. nb this can be done without affecting the suspension at all ie no need to do anything when removing / replacing the suspension tower nuts.

Boot carpet pulled back (nb you don't need to remove it completely but just enough to get access to the top of the strut tower)

This shows the 4 retaining nuts for the top of the strut tower on each side of the car.




The two foremost nuts should be removed......



nb. its worth noting that various designs of strut brace will have differing mounting brackets and ways to adjust fitment but the principles will be the same ;-)

It is not unusual for there to be some contours around the strut tower which the base of the strut bar mounting plates need to accommodate. In the case of the 993 there is a slightly raised edge to the strut tower hole.




You can see that this makes the mounting bracket base slightly wobbly when put in place (you can see a gap here on the LHD of the mounting plate)

nb remove the brace itself from the mounting brackets if possible to make fitment easier.




Don't worry about this as I found when I replaced the suspension nuts and tightened them back up that the base plate fitted snugly in place.

The strut brace mounting bracket is angled so you need to ensure you fit the correct LHS and RHS (they are not marked up). Its obvious when you do it which way is correct.




Put the mounting brackets in place and tighten the securing nuts previously removed back up.

You can see here that once tight the bracket is a very snug and tight fit....




It was then simply a matter of pulling the boot carpet back over and creating a slit with a stanley knife to allow the top of the mounting bracket to be pushed through it. I mad the slit small at first and gradually increased it until the brace securing hole at the top was visible.

The brace if then fitted to one bracket and its length adjusted to line up the securing hole on the other bracket. OCD dictates that the adjustment should be even on both sides :roll:

Once both sides of the brace are secured to the mounting brackets the job is done :D






I'm not sure what difference this will make to the handling yet (theory is all well and good but I know from experience some cars benefit from braces more than other eg softops which are more prone to chassis flex). The fact that the 993 RS's have these fitted as standard (so far as I know) means that there must be some benefit ? but for road use time will tell.
But it does look cool anyway :)
 
Hi

There is a discussion about whether the bar should be in slight compression or tension. Most people including myself would fit the strut with the front wheels off the ground and very slightly compressed from what I have read. Then with the wheels on the ground the brace will be exerting a pressure on the towers, ie pushing them outwards.

Doing this is high on the list for my car, but I like the RUF type which require longer studs I think.

One last thing, there is a price to pay with these things if you have an accident at the front. The brace can make things worse (damage greater) by affecting the other tower due to them now being linked (if you are unlucky with the angles)

By the way, does anyone know where I can get a RUF strut at a reasonable price?

Lovely write up again!

Berni
 
Berni,

I have not seen the recent discussion on here but have heard the debates over fitting techniques and benefits / downsides before but you are correct in pointing them out.

I don't fit them with any load by raising the wheels for fitment but ensure they are fully braced in the normal rest position ie wheels on the floor.

I am working on the basis that my new suspension setup has settled now but will check the strut tension through this year.

It is also worth noting that fitting a strut brace which is not a factory standard fitment should be disclosed to your Insurance company :cop:
 

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