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Power Steering Pipe hose corrosion ; clamp work around?

Power steering hoses

A common problem as you say. OPC Exeter quoted me £750 for the pipe replacement as the front end has to be dropped and the steering geometry etc all re-checked afterwards. OPC said until the crimp is opened to about 80% then it just needs monitoring. Parts are about £150, the rest is labour. If it is the return pipe the pressure is much less and thus poses less of a problem. If the main supply then pressure is much higher etc. Jubilee clip seems to be favourite fix on most forums (fora?). I will put a clip on mine in a couple of weeks when the brake fluid is changed by my local brake/tyre/exhaust place and the car accessible from underneath. As you say, not a very good design with the replacement costs so high.
 
I don't know which pipe you are all on about being a noob, but could it be repaired? I have had Pirtek or the likes out many a time to Jaguars to carry out on car repairs to gearbox and PAS pipes due to the same. Just a thought. :?:
 
chrisisle said:
I don't know which pipe you are all on about being a noob, but could it be repaired? I have had Pirtek or the likes out many a time to Jaguars to carry out on car repairs to gearbox and PAS pipes due to the same. Just a thought. :?:

I suspect that accessibility would be just as much of a problem for repairing the union as it is for replacing the pipe.
 
My offside crimp/clamp is the one that is splitting. If I put the wheels on full lock (steer right) then the pipework is fairly easy to get at, no need to jack the car up or anything.
 
guess I have been fortunate in 8 years of ownership - until today that is.

In for routine service and had an advisory that one of the power steering pipes end clamps is splitting and its the best part of £1K to remedy!

Seems from this thread its quite a common failure.

Seems a bit of a design flaw - to have a part that seems to frequently perish like this to be so expensive to fix.

Have others had the same happen and other than buying time with the Jubilee clip fix is there another solution.

Using a section of pipe and adding a new union at a more accessible place?
Any idea why its such a time consuming fix whats invloved? Not that I'd try and undertake it as a DIY job but just to understand where my reddies are going to go !
 
power steering pipe

Whilst attending the free inspection day at byfleet opc, the technician
pointed out some small corrosion on the crimped metal to rubber to section
on the power steering pipe that is located under the o/s/f wheel arch.

He was saying its quite a labour intensive job to change because of access
while feeding the pipe around all the the other parts.

Has anyone on here changed this pipe themselves, I have the pipe and
access to a ramp and wondered what sort of job it is to do.

cheers....Lea :bye:
 
Hi, I haven't changed it, but having exactly the same reported by the same OPC I did some investigation and had a jubilee clip placed around the offending connector. It seems like a weakspot with the model.

I wonder whether a specialist power steering repair company could at cheaper cost cut and reconnect the pipe ? It does look a major job especially if you have a 4WD variant.
 
Thanks for the reply vlad
he said the same thing regarding the jubilee clip
its quick and easy to do and my corrosion is very small
but I like to do the job properly but it looks a pig :x

jubilee clip bit of a bodge but opc said that's what they
fit because of the work involved :eek:
 
this was posted over in the US of A
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforu...-pressure-power-steering-hose-1999-996-a.html

Replacing a Rear High Pressure Power Steering hose on a 1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2...

Recently after a drive in my 1999 Porsche 996 I spotted some kind of fluid dripping from the engine on the passenger side. I couldn't immediately figure out if it was oil or water but since this car had never leaked anything since I'd bought it I was quite alarmed and frankly a bit scared. I've always said, almost anyone can buy a Porsche, but only the dedicated can maintain one.

The fluid that was dripping was kind of like oily water, and that just scared me even more as I immediately began thinking of the dreaded oil/water mixing syndrome. Well, after eliminating what things were definitely not in that area of the car I kind of figured that it was one of the power steering hoses since it seemed to be coming from above the variocam unit. Next I checked the power steering fluid level and lo and behold it was bone dry. At first I thought, that's not so bad, could certainly be worse. Well no, it is bad. The Pentosin power steering/clutch fluid used in this car is highly flammable and basically can set the car on fire should it land on the exhaust pipe.
With the airbox removed I could see my leak was coming from what I identified as the high pressure line. I immediately took to the internet to see if anyone had posted a tutorial on how to swap out the leaking hose, and sadly I basically found next to nothing. A week after emailing the service manager for an estimate at one of few Porsche dealers where I live, and still getting no response, I decided it was time to take matters into my own hands.

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I am a musician. I have owned a 1973 914, a 1985.5 944, a 1987 944S, and now this 1999 996, and I've never let anyone work on my car If I didn't have to (and that's been never). I believe if you have the right tools, knowledge, and the right mindset anyone can do most of the basic work you'll probably ever need to do on any decent Porsche.

So here we go...

First of all I got the part from Porsche, I got the correct, genuine part, and it's basically no more money than anywhere else. I also got a container of Pentosin.

1) Disconnect your battery.
2) Disconnect the MAF sensor from the airbox.
3) Remove the airbox.
4) Slightly loosen the bolts on the power steering pully.
5) Remove the serpentine belt (24mm).
6) Remove the power steering pully.
7) Remove the throttle body unit. The throttle body is 4 bolts, two electrical connections, an air hose, and one line that'll stay connected. Put the throttle body off to the side and wrap it in a towel or something so it doesn't get damaged.
8) Remove the plenum, which is a fancy word for the air tube behind the throttle body. It's got four hose clamps.
9) Drain (which in my case I didn't have to) the upper power steering fluid reservoir and remove it by turning the ring counter-clockwise. No tools necessary, use your hand, it comes off easily.

Easy enough so far, right? Well here comes the difficult parts of this job, the reason why Porsche gets the big bucks...

10) Remove the AC compressor. Three bolts must be removed. All three are 13mm.
Remove the two front bolts.
Now here comes just about this whole job...The world-renowned rear bolt on the AC compressor.
This is how I did it:
Tools:
A short, lean 13mm socket for a 1/4" drive, a 1/4" universal, an 8" extension for 1/4" drive, an adapter 1/4" to 3/8", and finally a 3/8" ratchet.
With your right hand feed the ratchet set-up through the space between the manifold at cylinder #4 and 5. Place the heat sensor (you'll easily see it) out of the way for more room to work.
With your left hand reach through where the throttle body/plenum was and feel for where the third bolt is on the rear of the AC compressor.
IMPORTANT: Get the socket set squarely onto the bolt before proceeding. Do not proceed until you have achieved this.
Remember, if you strip this bolt GAME OVER.
I actually put my left hand in to hold it square on the bolt while my friend spun the ratchet with two hands.
Slide the AC Compressor out, disconnect one measly wire and place the AC unit on the ledge of the engine bay.
REMEMBER: If you get discouraged or frustrated, walk away and come back, have a friend help, use the tools I said to use, get it to sit square on the bolt. Oh and I also used some liquid wrench ( don't know if it really helped or not). IT CAN BE DONE I PROMISE YOU.

11) Remove the leaking high pressure hose.
Use a 17mm open end wrench to remove the line where it attaches to the power steering pump. Collect any fluid that comes out. Even though it's called a high pressure line, it won't come out spraying all over the place. But it's nasty stuff so don't let it get on anything else.
Now for the other end...
*make sure for this next step that you are working with the same high pressure line or you'll have to replace the return line too.
Get a small hack saw (I used the finest blade from my Sawz-All) and by hand, cut the copper line closest to you and just before the connection. You're not keeping the leaky line anyway and this will allow you to use the closed end of a wrench (15mm) on the part of the connection closest to you.
With the closed end of the 15mm wrench on the part of the connector closest to you, hold it still while with another 15mm open end wrench turn the connection closest toward the front of the car clockwise. This part took a little while for me to do. Don't get frustrated, I did it and so can you. Make sure you're ready for a little fluid to spill.
When you've disconnected this you have basically finished the job (in a way).

12) Connect up the new line, I snaked it through to the rear connector, then attached it first at the pump (17mm) and then to the rear connector (again two 15mm's). *I removed the connector end (you'll see which I mean) from the new hose line and reused the old connector (already in place on the line), no leaks at all. You may want to remove this part on the new line before you get it into place.

Put everything back together in reverse. Sorry, it's just too much to write but I'll say this... I think you'll be suprised how fast everything goes back together.
Top off the Power steering fluid and go for a test drive.
Check for leaks.
None?
Now pat yourself on the back and think twice before emailing Porsche for a service quote.
 
just had exactly this issue on my 996. fluid everywhere. took it to my local garage -as it had no fluid it was half a mile away-they are very good and they diagnosed the problem in two minutes. they have put the jubilee clip fix in place and i will try and find a mobile firm to recrimp a new end on it . if thats not possible i might just run it as is. if its sealed I'm good.
i used to drive atlas crane lorries and there were firms who came out and repaired hoses on site so I'm sure its not a big deal,so long as access is ok.
 
Quite a common fault. This was picked up in the PPI on my car. I had the proper fix carried out by my local indy - thought about a jubilee job, but then decided to have the car right. Same issue, the steel bit at the end was splitting due to corrosion.

The new fitment was greased to prevent water corroding it.

All fine.
 
Same problem with mine.....common on all 996. Jubilee clip been fitted to stop the alu to crack further. Haven't move since , been well over a year.
 
quattrosteph said:
Same problem with mine.....common on all 996. Jubilee clip been fitted to stop the alu to crack further. Haven't move since , been well over a year.

Same here Steph - the jubilee-clip fix is fine; been about a year and no leaks whatsoever ...
 

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