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Torquing Front Control Arm Bolt

W

Wh1t3Kn1ght

Montreal
Joined
22 Aug 2018
Messages
573
Hi Folks,

Question for those that replaced the lower front control arm (coffin arm) how did you manage to torque up the control arm to cross member bolt? There is limited room when the car is on ramps to torque up the bolt / nut due to it's location inside the cross member. I've managed to get it pretty damn tight with a 1.5 foot ring spanner and two hands but can't get my torque wrench in as there isn't enough clearance.

I'm sure it is tight enough to drive gently to the alignment shop down the road so I suppose I can just ask them to torque it up to 120nm / 89 ft/lb when they do the alignment?

Thanks
 
That bolt doesn't provide any alignment adjustment so you probably can't expect the alignment place to do it up for you unless they're really nice.

I can't get a torque wrench in there either. What I do is support the front of the car on axle stands, then with the wheel removed, put a jack under the upright/wheel carrier concerned and jack until it's reasonably close to getting the coffin arm level. I then use a spanner to do up the nut to 'F-tight', whilst using another spanner to hold the head of the bolt. I sometimes also use a second spanner on the end of the first to double the lever arm on the nut.

If you don't know how to link spanners together to extend them, google it. It's a very handy technique for the home mechanic without an impact gun.
 
I've just done exactly as described above as I couldn't see how I could get my torque wrench on that nut. If I get a rattle I'll tighten it further. No rattle, I'll guess it's close to 120Nm.

Linking 2 spanners. Learned how to do this recently. Absolute game changer.
 
Thanks Guys - will try the double spanner trick, I've also got some crows foot wrenches that fit my torque wrench so could try them but I imagine the torque involved may be too much for them (open ended).
 
The crows foot spanner is a lever, the torque is applied through the square drive a few cm from the bolt so your torque reading would not be accurate anyway.
 
I would think with a 1.5ft spanner you've got enough torque on it as 120Nm is only wheel bolt tight.

I managed to remove mine (complete with 20 years of rust holding them on) with a standard length spanner so unless you are incredibly weak I'd guess you're already at, or over 120Nm with that longer spanner.
 
maldren said:
The crows foot spanner is a lever, the torque is applied through the square drive a few cm from the bolt so your torque reading would not be accurate anyway.
Click to expand...

Correct me if i am wrong but, imho, provided the line of symmetry through the crow's foot is at right angles to the line of the torque wrench, then the torque applied will almost exactly as per the torque setting.
 
UncleP said:
I would think with a 1.5ft spanner you've got enough torque on it as 120Nm is only wheel bolt tight.

I managed to remove mine (complete with 20 years of rust holding them on) with a standard length spanner so unless you are incredibly weak I'd guess you're already at, or over 120Nm with that longer spanner.
Click to expand...

Mine came undone pretty easily as well but I used a 2ft breaker bar :eek:

Hughb said:
maldren said:
The crows foot spanner is a lever, the torque is applied through the square drive a few cm from the bolt so your torque reading would not be accurate anyway.
Click to expand...

Correct me if i am wrong but, imho, provided the line of symmetry through the crow's foot is at right angles to the line of the torque wrench, then the torque applied will almost exactly as per the torque setting.
Click to expand...

Yes if the crows foot is at 90 degrees instead of in-line with the torque wrench then the torque applied should be accurate
 
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