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911Time
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 25 Sep 2018
Posts: 253
Location: Staffordshire


PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh lovely - nice and flush as you say!! Why's life as a petrol head such a PITA some days? Wink

Look fwd to seeing the others with baited breath.

Whereabouts are you based? Do you have or have access to a decent vertical drill press? What tools do you have/access to? Do you have things like a blow torch, impact driver, stud extractor set etc?
_________________
Mark


I'm not a perfectionist - I just want everything done 'Right' Wink

Current: GT Silver 991.1 C4S with a few 'special bits'. Previous Owned: C63 Estate, BMW e92 330d Coupe (700Nm/Custom Exh/Map/BBK/Quaife/Breytons), ML63AMG, Alpina e46 B3S Coupe, Alpina e36 B3 Coupe, Lotus Excel SE, Alfasud Green Cloverleaf Ti, Lancia HPE, Capri 2.0S, Marina 1.8 (don't laugh it was my first road car). Bikes: Suzuki TL1000R and BMW R1100S AC Schnitzer.
 
  
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wasz
Paul Ricard


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 3051


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UncleP wrote:
I've got 2 sheared nipples at the moment and 1 main pipe (the one that takes the fluid in to the calliper) that is stuck solid. All other nipples and pipes were a bastard to get off.

If I knew of an engineering shop near me I'd probably take them there to get done properly but I know of none and not the easiest to find.

My plan was to drill them out with a left handed drill and hope the heat and counter clockwise rotation brings the remains out. Failing that I'd try an eezy out. Possibly a bit over optimistic when we're dealing with galvanic corrosion but the temptation to drill is there as the remains already have a perfect centre punch to drill from. Not sure if sticking them in the oven for a while at about 150º would help before drilling.

Any tips welcome.



Don't do this! The drill will go wonky and you'll end up with a caliper like the one in Marky's pic when the thread is destroyed.

It needs mounting in a mill, rigidly and accurately. The drill will try and wander as the aluminium is much softer than the steel nipple. Mounting it straight and securely will stop this.

Then the thread and seat will just need cleaning up.
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My special order MY99 Vesuvious Charcoal 996 | Clutch, Fly RMS IMS AOS Job |
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UncleP
Monza


Joined: 27 Feb 2019
Posts: 161



PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

911Time wrote:
Oh lovely - nice and flush as you say!! Why's life as a petrol head such a PITA some days? Wink


Tell me about it. Watcha. "how to" video It's usually someone in California in a pristine double garage with lift taking their suspension apart 1 handed with a leatherman. The reality of 20 years rust and crud in the UK is gallons of plus gas, blowtorches, 6ft breaker bars, skint knuckles and the full lexicon of blue language.

I'm based just outside Glasgow. There no doubt will be somewhere near me that could do it but asking about I can't get a name.

In terms of tools I'm pretty well stocked. All sorts of extractors, cobalt left handed drill bit set and a smallish pillar drill. Got a dewalt 899 (1600Nm) impact gun but I'm not sure welding a nut on is an option for fear of melting the calliper.
 
  
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fot0
Newbie


Joined: 03 Apr 2018
Posts: 47
Location: Thames Valley


PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried a good quality punch and shocked the bond with a couple of blows. This is sometimes all that is needed to get yourself started with a good soaking of wd40.
 
  
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UncleP
Monza


Joined: 27 Feb 2019
Posts: 161



PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not tried anything on the sheared ones yet. It was the previous owner that sheared them. The ones that weren't sheared I removed by sticking a socket on them on a standard 20(wish) cm bar and whacking it round gradually with a rubber mallet. My idea of a manual gentle impact gun.
 
  
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Marky911
Sepang


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2796



PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said you don’t want to be having a go with a hand drill and the hardest part is gripping the calliper securely, with the nipple/hole positioned perfectly upright.

Ring some local engineering firms. The smaller the better as large ones generally run at full capacity and have quite a wait.

£50 is a fair price for a proper repair, but not for what my mate got. It’s an hours job at least and anywhere decent will charge about £50 per hour. Maybe a bit less if it’s just pocket money for the guy at a small place though.
 
  
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Glasgow 911SC
Trainee


Joined: 09 Jun 2002
Posts: 52
Location: Glasgow


PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth trying West of Scotland Engineering to see if they can help out. No direct experiencing, but they've been about a long time and might be able to help or point you in the right direction.

https://www.wose.co.uk/
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911Time
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 25 Sep 2018
Posts: 253
Location: Staffordshire


PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh yes, the joys of working on corroded parts: Athough this particular example isn't down to our lousy weather/salted roads, as you said working on cars that have spent their life in California (or Japan) can be so much easier.

Like I said earlier, (unless you have your own mini-workshop) a good machine shop should be able to do this far far easier and to a better standard than is possible at home.

I agree with others comments about not even attempting to use an unmounted drill - it will go horribly wrong and probably cost you your caliper/s or fingers. Even with a decent drill press it all relies on getting the caliper mounted perfectly and the clamps on most presses just aren't meant to hold something like a caliper.

I thought you might be somewhere in the back of beyond and have no choice but to do it at home but in Glasgow/Clydebank area there must surely be a few small engineering companies who could do this.

In your shoes, I'd exhaust all the other options BEFORE setting to it at home: Googling around, why not give somebody like Forrest Precision Engineering Ltd a call - they seem to have the right kit and their reviews specifically mention manufacturing parts for an old car, so they're not phased by one-offs.

Or try West of Scotland Engineering, like Glasgow 911sc suggested - though they look a fair sized company, so maybe less willing to interrupt production.

If they can't/won't do it, maybe they know somebody who can & will. Any decent shop will need to cover their costs no matter what, so there'll no doubt be a minimum charge but it will probably be worth it just to save the stress.

Just discuss exactly what you're after and what they propose to do before hand, so there won't be any misunderstandings or nasty surprises (like the over-sized nipple issue mentioned above) Thumb

Let us know the outcome
Smile
_________________
Mark


I'm not a perfectionist - I just want everything done 'Right' Wink

Current: GT Silver 991.1 C4S with a few 'special bits'. Previous Owned: C63 Estate, BMW e92 330d Coupe (700Nm/Custom Exh/Map/BBK/Quaife/Breytons), ML63AMG, Alpina e46 B3S Coupe, Alpina e36 B3 Coupe, Lotus Excel SE, Alfasud Green Cloverleaf Ti, Lancia HPE, Capri 2.0S, Marina 1.8 (don't laugh it was my first road car). Bikes: Suzuki TL1000R and BMW R1100S AC Schnitzer.
 
  
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UncleP
Monza


Joined: 27 Feb 2019
Posts: 161



PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well thanks all for the advice and knowledge of past experience.

I've never had much joy drilling bolts out, mainly due to previously using crap drill bits. You've all convinced me (along with a quick look at the price of a calliper) not to have a go here.

I called west of Scotland engineering earlier and will drop the callipers in there next week.
 
  
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uk996
Monza


Joined: 09 Jan 2018
Posts: 171
Location: Home Counties


PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've contacted a couple of brake refurbishment companies, a couple recommended Budweg branded seals instead of Brembo.

What do you guys think? Am I just paying for the Brembo name/ Brembo tax?

Where do you get seals from? Brakes International were suggested earlier.
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Frenchmeister
Barcelona


Joined: 24 Feb 2014
Posts: 1336
Location: Beautiful Cumbria.

2004 Porsche 997 Carrera 2S

PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got seals from big redd when doing my 944 turbo calipers, now those are a
bitch to do, removing the stainless slider plates was trying to say the least.
nooo
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