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turbo DIY Exhaust upgrade

NickHappy

Montreal
Joined
27 Apr 2014
Messages
577
Can I get some help please people on what's the best way and tools to get these exhaust to turbo nuts off? I've been giving it plenty with 13mm ring spanner but not budging and starting to round the nuts off.

Also been trying the torx screws on the turbo guard and snapped the damn thing. Is this repairable as a thread is stuck in the scavenger housing now!!

Ultimately looking to get the exhaust off for an upgrade and change out the plugs whilst I'm in there. Any helps and tips from you experts would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

NH












Thanks
 
A lot of mine were almost rusted away so I applied a lot of heat and used a cold chisel to crack them off , then a pair of mole grips to wind them out. The uppermost nuts were all ok as are out of the sh*tstream.
Oxyacetylene or decent blowtorch to get them red then douse with water to cool will almost always loosen them.
The broken bolt will need to be drilled and maybe retapped, unless there is a stub of the thread showing, in which case I have had success with mig welding a nut to the stub, the heat created loosens the thread, the wind out with a spanner.
 
i found the best way was to take a dremel to the washer below the nut and punch the washer out with a screwdriver/chisel this takes the pressure of the nut Its a time consuming job unfortunately.

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=135648

some more info in my thread
 

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chaser said:
A lot of mine were almost rusted away so I applied a lot of heat and used a cold chisel to crack them off , then a pair of mole grips to wind them out. The uppermost nuts were all ok as are out of the sh*tstream.
Oxyacetylene or decent blowtorch to get them red then douse with water to cool will almost always loosen them.
The broken bolt will need to be drilled and maybe retapped, unless there is a stub of the thread showing, in which case I have had success with mig welding a nut to the stub, the heat created loosens the thread, the wind out with a spanner.

Agree with this.
whats the condition of the bottom 2 nuts on each side? top one looks ok. I would do as above, you dont need Oxy though if you dont have it. I used MAP gas (plumbing Map gas torch) and that does the job, just takes longer to get them red hot.

Looks like you have nothing left to get on to with the snapped one, so you will need to drill it out , then you can collapse the remaining thread in and retap if needed. I think I still have a drain tank kicking around so could measure the depth if you need to know regards drilling it out.

Take it slow and steady, get the right tools needed if you dont have them and tackle it one side at a time.
For the other side bolt (for the heatshield) you need to get the turbo drain hot around the bolt, as hot as possible within reason and the bolt should wind out.
 
At work and we like any garage use oxy acetylene .. heat the nut up till its glowing red then its either a hammer / chisel to at first try and split the nut then a second heat and hit at an angle to split the nut .

You can use sockets such as this instead of the chisel approach ..

https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/p63045?store=FK&utm

They don't really fit on these turbo nuts though.

The heat source .. obviously we have industrial oxy accet .. but a possible if still expensive item ..

https://www.lbsbmonline.co.uk/120l-...MIytKeiLqf5wIVRLDtCh1VTg_rEAQYDSABEgIPj_D_BwE

If the smaller versions work then that's fine by me .. you just need to get it red hot basically .

A snapped bolt and its drill out time and cut a new thread or fit a timesert .

You could probably get away with leaving that heat shield bolt as it is though .
 
Great reply's - thanks so much gents; really appreciated. Gaz, DarkHorse, DeMort that's all really helpful and looks like it's going to me more than just spanner's needed to get these out.

I'll get working on the washer with the Dremel and see how that goes. As for the scavenger tank nut, a drill out will hopefully sort that out.

Ill keep you posted 👍🏻👍🏻
 
chaser said:
A lot of mine were almost rusted away so I applied a lot of heat and used a cold chisel to crack them off , then a pair of mole grips to wind them out. The uppermost nuts were all ok as are out of the sh*tstream.
Oxyacetylene or decent blowtorch to get them red then douse with water to cool will almost always loosen them.
The broken bolt will need to be drilled and maybe retapped, unless there is a stub of the thread showing, in which case I have had success with mig welding a nut to the stub, the heat created loosens the thread, the wind out with a spanner.

Cheers for this - a trip to the plumbers merchant for a blow torch i think 🤔
 
Let there be light!!

Wasn't too bad in the end - plenty of soaking in penetration oil seems to have helped, managed to get all eight studs out with some help using this:

https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-b...XNr2BPr2iaZXbuOvXIQai3umne_BnElhoCrQgQAvD_BwE

Brilliant bit of kit, just need to get the O2 sensors off next and then drop it of the rear hanger. Any advice on where to get replacement studs and bolts from. Stainless preferred I think.





 
Bit of an update on the new exhaust project;

Unhooked the exhaust all OK after cutting through the straps with a dermel tool, dropped the O2 sensor wiring through to the floor after removing the Y-pipe and air box.

Just can't these O2 sensors off - managed to get 1 loose with a special O2 tool and breaker bar but the remaining three just aren't shifting!! Will have to give it a go with some heat - if still no luck a local Indy may have to help me out.

New TG linked performance exhaust, headers and tips have arrived - looks good so far - looking forward to a full sound test soon 👍🏻

Looks like I'm going to need some new nuts and studs for the headers plus the CAT to turbo mounts - where is best to source these??



















 
I also fitted my Kline exhaust myself , it was easy enough except for most of the bolts linking cat to turbo snapped . Got the manifolds to do next .
 

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I just bought new pre and post cat Bosch sensors from ECP, easier if putting back to standard in the future. My old exhaust can now just be put straight on.

Incidentally, I have a pair of carbon Kline tail pipes of a 997.1 turbo for sale at one point, boxed as new. I'm loving my Kline, best mod so far :)
 
I'm glad you like the Kline. I am waiting for mine to arrive end of feb. Went with 100cel plus the headers. Can't wait.
 
keendean said:
I just bought new pre and post cat Bosch sensors from ECP, easier if putting back to standard in the future. My old exhaust can now just be put straight on.

Incidentally, I have a pair of carbon Kline tail pipes of a 997.1 turbo for sale at one point, boxed as new. I'm loving my Kline, best mod so far :)

Another advocate here for leaving the old sensors on the old exhaust. Apparently, they don't always take kindly to being moved and I thought it false economy if the old exhaust was damaged in the process.
 
I had to remove mine as one of the O2 sensors was goosed and the car was running like a dog. They came out easily using some map gas. I wouldn't even bother trying them without heat as you will round them out.
Just heat the area around the O2 sensor, not the O2 sensor body as it not the sensor thread body you want to expand.

Good progress Nickhappy :)
Not sure why you cut the exhaust straps though?!!
 
Scholester said:
keendean said:
I just bought new pre and post cat Bosch sensors from ECP, easier if putting back to standard in the future. My old exhaust can now just be put straight on.

Incidentally, I have a pair of carbon Kline tail pipes of a 997.1 turbo for sale at one point, boxed as new. I'm loving my Kline, best mod so far :)

Another advocate here for leaving the old sensors on the old exhaust. Apparently, they don't always take kindly to being moved and I thought it false economy if the old exhaust was damaged in the process.

Good suggestion Gents - think I'll give it a go with some MAP gas and then if they're not freeing up this may be the way to go. Not cheap though are they??!! @£450 is the best price I can find...
 

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