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Exhaust replacement

jond58 said:
I'll try to upload one!!
Sounds great, bled the cooling system up, no leaks and nothing loose. Bumper on, adjusted the tail pipes.
I'll be glad to go home and not have to think about anymore spannering for a bit..........oh apart from I need to service the vfr and do the belts on the ducati!! But bikes are easy, everything's little and clean!

You have a VFR...?? Best bike in the world, Official :thumb:


Osh
 
jond58 said:
Basically retrospectively looking at the job I would use a little die grinder, whip the heads off the bolts, drop the manifold and then leave two studs so that the jig will fix to those, weld nuts onto the others and try winding these out. We wasted a lot of time on day one trying to undo rusted and rounded bolts which only served to smash my hand into my sump on lots of occasions!!?! The jig is pretty much fool proof. It's very well engineered.

Id agree, bolt heads off, manifolds off, jig on and drill them out. No point mucking around trying to undo bolts that will only snap.

How long would you say it takes to drill a single stud out and then tap it?
 
An nc30. Little vfr400. I owned one when I was 18 so I bought one a few years ago to try to feel young again!!
 

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Once I got a new 17/64 drill bit and a bloody good tap set I reckon you can do one in 3/4 of hour without too much rush and setting it all up properly. The jig takes five minutes to set up accurately. Spend five minutes with the smaller bit, swap the bushes, another five minutes with the big drill bit and then remove the jig and carefully pick and tap the remains out. It's really easy. As for depth you can measure the fixing from one but the bolt isn't to the end of the hole if that makes sense, there's like a few millimetres of gap at the end of the bolt. This we named the 'donk zone' basically go steady at the end and you'll feel the 'donk' as it finishes the bolt off and enters that free space obviously be ready to stop and pull back. If you have a natural feel for stuff this will make sense if it doesn't I'd contemplate getting someone else to do the job!
 
jond58 said:
An nc30. Little vfr400. I owned one when I was 18 so I bought one a few years ago to try to feel young again!!

Jon - i toured with the VFR owners club once and one of the guys had the VFR400 - few of us could get close to him on the twisties - it was ssssooo responsive. We'd always get him on the straights - but not by much.

Stunning bike m8. Love it... :thumb:


Osh
 
A lot of time & effort gone into replacing the exhaust. Does anyone know what the cost would be to replace an OEM exhaust system at an OPC?
 
My Indy is really good and they know the car. Bearing in mind my cats and boxes had been previously replaced so were easy to remove they still have me a ball park figure of £1000+vat and that was them trying to do it as a fill in job, no rush to save a little bit of money. I know most places seem to be £1000-£1500 so you can bet on an opc doubling that!!
For me the money was a saving I could make by doing it myself easily enough (we'll sort of easily anyway) but also as I've said I got to take my time positioning things just the way I wanted them. I'm a bit ocd like that so I knew if they'd have done the job I'd properly take half of it back apart to clean behind stuff and generally faff about with it.
 
I meant to add I wouldn't say it's an opc type job. Let alone you won't want to pay their bill I doubt they'd even want it tying a ramp up for two days.
 
I have done this job twice now on two different 997s, trying welding nut on, easy outs, penetrating fluid Etc. Etc. and as jond58 has said dont bother just cut the snapped bolts off flat and drill them with the jig as all other methods are a waste of time. I also found trying to weld nuts on just hardened the old studs making them tougher to drill taking more time.

If you are going to do it just make sure you have a stock of drill bits as you will blunt a couple and being imperial you cant just nip down screwfix to get some more.
 

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