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2001 C4 project car

Can't see the chassis doing anything unless you go for a blast in it. If it was to 'flex' or 'sag' it'd have done it the moment his tin opener cut through the last bit.
 
MisterCorn said:
The choice has been made. When I started to think about it I didn't mind either way, with perhaps a slight preference for the UV. After seeing both in the flesh I have come down on the side of Rubystone.
Click to expand...

Are you going to get a matching jacket. :?:

 
Not too keen on this Iron pink :grin:
 
infrasilver said:
I assume you are thinking the chassis may flex while the roof is off and once its back on the skin may not fit so well if the chassis is stiffer with the cage fitted?

Personally I think it should be fine either way?
Click to expand...

That was exactly my thinking. I can't imagine it would flex but did consider it a possibility.

MC
 
Could you tack the cage in, then offer up the roof panel to check the panel gaps (as it were), and if all is well weld the cage in properly?

Are you going to tie the cage to the B and A pillars?
 
MisterCorn said:
infrasilver said:
I assume you are thinking the chassis may flex while the roof is off and once its back on the skin may not fit so well if the chassis is stiffer with the cage fitted?

Personally I think it should be fine either way?
Click to expand...

That was exactly my thinking. I can't imagine it would flex but did consider it a possibility.

MC
Click to expand...

It would only be affected if the car is jacked up at any one corner I would have thought?
 
In a most uncharacteristic burst of efficiency, I came to work this morning to find that the skin installation had been done on Saturday. A very nice job too.
The old sunroof-enabled skin is on eBay.









Cage fitting next, then some actual paint.

MC
 
Doing a bit of tidying up in the garage today, I had taken a spark plug out of the C4 engine for doing some work on measuring chamber volumes. I had thought when I took the plug out that it wasn't in very tight. On refitting it to the engine sure enough the threads are stripped. So it looks like the engine wont' be going back in until one of the heads has been off and this plug thread has been helicoiled. I'll check the others whilst I'm at it but hopefully only one head off for the job.

MC
 
Can you not helicoil it in situ?



 
I really don't like the idea of doing it in situ, you don't need much swarf to be in the cylinder to mess things up. I'd rather pull the head since the engine is out and it isn't a big job. Not like I need the engine back up and running in a couple of days by the looks of the bodywork.....

In the meantime, I've stripped both doors so that they can be painted. The plan is to run two standard doors for when not using the front cage, and have a pair of fibreglass lightweight doors ready for when the front cage is used and it is on the track. I have bought a pair of 986 Boxster doors to strip for the spare set of internals. This is what is involved in stripping a door. WARNING, if you don't want to strip a door this video is not for you.....



MC
 
I have decided to go with the Time-sert inserts. There probably isn't much difference between them and a helicoil, but I do like the idea of a solid insert rather than a piece of wire where a section could potentially break off. I could do this with the head in place, but given that the cost for a head gasket and a pair of inlet manifold gaskets is not much, I figured I'd rather be sure that there is no swarf in the cylinder when the job is done.

Time-serts don't seem to be readily available in the UK so I have a kit and inserts coming over from the US. Head and inlet gaskets on order from AutoDoc, so time to make a start on the engine.








I took some photos to show the routing of the wiring loom on either side of the engine, then undid the four bolts which hold the intake system to the heads. I undid a couple of brackets from the manifold and the breather connections, then lifted it off the engine. It took about 30 minutes of faffing around in total.

Next I'll turn the engine on the stand so that the 4-6 head is at the top and get ready to remove the head for when the parts get here.

Before I pull the head I will loosen and retorque the other plugs to make sure that they are OK. If one has been damaged I wouldn't be too surprised if others have as well.

MC
 
Good stuff mc. Will you be pulling both heads off and skimming both to make sure compression ratios are the same on both sides?
Will you be raising the CR? Dues anyone bilother with that these days in a bid for a little more grunt?
 
I will check the head when it is off and only skim if needed, I don't expect this engine to be in for more than a couple of thousand miles at most so I'm not looking to go overboard.

CR is an interesting one, there will be more discussion of this in other threads, there certainly is room for doing things, but I won't be doing them on this engine as it is staying standard. It just needs to keep pushing the car around until the new one is ready.

MC
 
I've never went down the raising cr route but I wonder what it'd be worth in terms of hp. I'll be pulling the engine out but don't really have the space to be splitting it
 
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