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Short shift shenanigans

Cannop

Monza
Joined
27 Feb 2018
Messages
158
I've had a short shifter fitted to my C2S for almost as long as I've had the car, fitting it was one of the first jobs I carried out when I bought the car.

It's one of the generic Chinese manufactured ones and it improves the feel of the gear changes immensely, however when I fitted it I did notice the ball for the left to right action of the lever dispenses with the engineered socket insert that the original uses. As the ball is larger it fills the square hole left by the omitted original insert and this has always struck me as not a very well engineered solution as the ball is only touching the square socket in four locations. I don't know whether it's the placebo effect or not but I've always felt the left to right action as being a little compromised compared with the original shifter albeit with a shorter throw.

Anyway the opportunity to buy a new genuine Porsche short shift kit at less than a third of retail presented itself so I thought it would be a worthwhile exercise to buy it and get it fitted.

Below you can see the kit I had fitted, the socket that niggled me is the one on the left in the white nylon lever but the metal housings for the left right pivots are also also a very bulky solution!

img_1297.jpg


Here it is with all the covers removed.

img_1299.jpg


Side by side with the new kit you can see the differences, the throw (the fulcrum points) are virtually identical to the Porsche short shift original.

img_1304.jpg


Here you can see the difference in the fulcrum point compared to the original 'long shift' lever, it doesn't look like much but makes a huge difference to the action.

img_1295.jpg


Here's the new kit going in.

img_1305.jpg


One point that may help anyone doing this job is clarification of the disconnection of the gear lever gaiter from the shifter knob itself. The online guides I've read tell you to grip the piece under the gear knob and twist to allow you to pull the knob off but dont seem to make clear what the piece looks like or what direction to twist or how far!

The section to turn is connected to the gaiter and looks like this in situ.

img_1307.jpg


Looking from above it needs to be rotated through 90 degrees clockwise to release the knob itself.

With the knob removed you can see how it works in these photos. When locked it looks like this:

img_1309.jpg


And when rotated through 90 degrees it looks like this, the two cutouts align with those in the knob itself to allow the clearance for removal.

img_1308.jpg


Remember when refitting it it's 90 degrees anticlockwise to lock it!

Anyway, the OEM kit is now fitted and as I've already said it's probably the placebo effect but the change does seem more precise with less side to side play!

img_1312.jpg


If anyone needs a Chinese short shift kit drop me a pm! :thumb:
 
You should've bought one of mine. :wink:
 
Left to right throw is identical on travel on all kits, only up/down is altered.

My kit has more superior bearings for this appilcation than anything else including Porsche.
 
One thing to note is I've now removed the Chinese short shift lever from the OEM carrier to inspect the square socket, which as you recall is the part that has the ball operating on it. There are definitely indentions in the four areas (top, bottom, left and right) where the ball contacts it, which can only be due to wear caused by the ball over the last couple of years.

This now leads me to believe the more positive feel is probably something more than just the placebo effect!
 
Alex said:
You should've bought one of mine. :wink:

One of your what Alex, short shift kits? I would have done had I known you made them!
 
I have both a Chinese SS and OEM in different cars and I find the Chinese ones to has a too short throw making them a bit too notchy, especially when cold, where as the OEM being slightly longer feels just right. You can improve the OEM one though by adding some Phoenix Engineering billet bushes to reduce the slop of the plastic they come with.
 
Cannop said:
Alex said:
You should've bought one of mine. :wink:

One of your what Alex, short shift kits? I would have done had I known you made them!

He doesn't make them, he modifies the short shifter you already have (chinese one) to remove poor production tolerances and fit decent bushes getting rid of the plastic ones that the kit comes with. Its a great idea, you should check his thread:
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=127355&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

BUT It doesn't address the way the kit locks into the factory plastic 'block' on the left which was the reason you changed to the factory short shift. :thumb:
 
Hertsdriver said:
He doesn't make them, he modifies the short shifter you already have (chinese one) to remove poor production tolerances and fit decent bushes getting rid of the plastic ones that the kit comes with. Its a great idea, you should check his thread:
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=127355&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

BUT It doesn't address the way the kit locks into the factory plastic 'block' on the left which was the reason you changed to the factory short shift. :thumb:

Ah I see, thanks for the link. It's definitely a better solution than the standard Chinese and OEM bushings!

As you rightly point out though it doesn't address the main reason I replaced mine, namely the lack of a proper ball and socket joint which the OEM has.
 
Ahh this is the issue I have with my china shifters!! Loosing the square socket joint thing results in side to side play as the ball bit doesn't sit in the white thingy perfectly!! I was going to wrap tape around mine but decided not to in the end. I would LOVE to lose this side to side play as otherwise, the shifter does the job for me. It's the same in my 997 and 986.

SAVE US ALEX!!! Make something to sort this!! :worship:
 
I have thought about it but on mine there is virtually no play in that area so I scrapped it off.

If I were you I'd wrap some plumbers PTFE tape round it to take the play out........it is the slipperiest stuff known to man.
 
You twist the base " lock device " then you pull the gear knob upwards .. don't have your face over it as sometimes you have to pull pretty hard to get the gear knob off ...

I have seen a mechanic punch himself in the face whilst doing this !!!
 
Mine wouldn't budge so I used a thick plastic spudger with a crowbar foot end, placed it on it's side around the metal column of the gear selector as a spacer then used a metal trim remover in between the spudger and the bottom of the gear knob/boot and levered upwards. It came away in a nice controlled fashion.
 
Thefinn said:
I have both a Chinese SS and OEM in different cars and I find the Chinese ones to has a too short throw making them a bit too notchy, especially when cold, where as the OEM being slightly longer feels just right. You can improve the OEM one though by adding some Phoenix Engineering billet bushes to reduce the slop of the plastic they come with.

Do you have a link for these bushes ?
 
Cannop said:
Mine wouldn't budge so I used a thick plastic spudger with a crowbar foot end, placed it on it's side around the metal column of the gear selector as a spacer then used a metal trim remover in between the spudger and the bottom of the gear knob/boot and levered upwards. It came away in a nice controlled fashion.

That's a pretty good idea and not something i had thought of .. i remove a lot of center consoles at work and often leave the knob and leather base attached and feed it through the consol .. about 3 last week due to the very wet weather and water ingress on cars .

I'll be giving your method a go next time :thumb:

You Can teach an old dog new tricks you Know :D
 

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