First 911 - Early 2004 3.6 Gen 1

Cannop · 7 Oct 2019

I took the lamp out again, removed the old halogen bulb and once more fitted one of the LED's and again it didn't work. Turned it around 180 degrees and it lit up.

That makes 4 times in a row fitting the LED's that I managed to get them in the wrong orientation. I won't bother with a lottery ticket this week!

Thanks for the advice me&my997.

me&amp;my997 · 7 Oct 2019

Cannop said:
I took the lamp out again, removed the old halogen bulb and once more fitted one of the LED's and again it didn't work. Turned it around 180 degrees and it lit up.

That makes 4 times in a row fitting the LED's that I managed to get them in the wrong orientation. I won't bother with a lottery ticket this week!

Thanks for the advice me&my997.

Happiness :thumb:

Hertsdriver · 14 Oct 2019

Started to get a wet lower door carpet with all this rain... had a good read up online before diving in and see that its down to the innder door card/gasket failing, so armed with some torx bits, and some black silicone thought I would give this 'simple' task a go... :lol:

Found this guide online (couldnt find one here) which was invaluable:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/579225-diy-997-door-panel-removal.html

Got the inner card off and the bottom of the seal was as expected perished. So cut it off back to where it was good, then cleaned it all up , attacked it with wire wool to remove any flaky paint, then a quick coat of primer and a blast of gloss black paint to protect it. Then on with a nice fat bead of very sticky gooey black silicone, and then the precarious task of threading the various cables and grommets back in through the back of the inner card whilst not getting sticky black silicone everywhere.... :floor: Of course half way through it started raining, and my window was in the down position with the regulator disconnected.... so quickly got the inner car in place and buttoned up, then put the car cover of it and waited for it to stop, which it did (the next morning).
Luckily the car cover kept out the rain and with the bonus of the overnight wait giving time to dry the door card out next to a radiator

I then had ample time to wrestle the door card back on and curse at the (many) card poppers..

c: , but all back on and together and will see how it holds up. Didnt get many pics as I was going along as was racing against the weather.. Satisfying if fiddly job ticked off.

Just have to figure out how to get rid of the airbag warning light (which was presumably triggered when I turned the ignition on before reconnecting the door curtain airbag, to try and close the window....) Any recommendations gratefully received

Oh and thanks to DeMort once again for the tips of re-coding the windows :thumb:

Cannop · 14 Oct 2019

I had the same problem with the airbag light when I removed my card to do the lock. I used one of these

http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pag...181-z=960087&p=108089.cfm#content_item_108089

to reset the light but it took quite a few attempts to get it to extinguish.

If you were thinking of buying one the iCarsoft POR V1.0

http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pag...181-z=960089&p=131248.cfm#content_item_131248

is probably better bang for buck at the same price.

Hertsdriver · 21 Oct 2019

Well after a week of seemingly solid rain I can confirm that my repair did not work :floor:
So yesterday I took it all back off again and this time around I spent a bit more time into making sure that the inner door card was a good fitand nice and straight before I added a new, thicker layer of silicone, plus a small bead of silicone all around the old 'good' seal.... I also filed 2 flats into the 2 drain holes on the lower edge of the door recess (I have read that this is the suspected area where the water sits as it has nowhere to go) so hopefully its now water tight :?:

Hertsdriver · 26 Oct 2019

Car has been out in a weeks worth of rain and the bottom of the door is dry so I'm hoping that was a successful fix.

Car still has an airbag error as I turned the ignition on without the door airbag connected (to close the window as it started raining) tip if you are going to do this, DONT turn the ignition on :lol: pull the window up by hand :thumb:
With all airbag removal a code is only thrown if you turn the ignition on. You can remove any of the airbags and not throw a code as long as you reconnect before turning the ignition on, as I did this when swapping the steering wheels over.

My understanding of the system is that the airbags are disabled when a code has triggered the warning light, so as well as being g annoying on the dash it's also a safety issue so needs sorting now that I believe the door leak is fixed.

Got lucky with a second hand icarsoft diagnostic unit in the classified section which arrived today and cleared the code in under 5 mins :thumbs:

If anyone needs a loan of this unit drop me a pm

Hertsdriver · 30 Oct 2019

Finally made a decision on the Fuchs colour, am going for satin black powder coat finish, with a diamond cut lip. Think the satin will work better against the basalt paintwork than gloss black. Have also asked them to bring the paint out right to the very lip as I think just the centres being painted makes the wheels look smaller than they are. Once powdered and then diamond cut they will then be powder coat lacquered all over which will reduce the very shiny diamond cut down to a more normal looking polished edge, or at least that's the plan....

Turns out you can get 4 Fuchs in a 911 quite easily :floor:

Hertsdriver · 30 Oct 2019

Have had a bit of an issue with a stuck/broken left hand cup holder so had a bit of time to have a nosey. Removal is very simple, open the glove box and locate the 2 x 5mm allen headed bolts for which you will need a short screwdriver as space is tight, once they are undone it slides out as one unit. Seems the the flap is missing on the left side (which I understand can be bought separately), but also the mechanism which pushes the lower part of the holder in and out has snapped, and the lower holder itself has broken with no pits on show anywhere to glue it back together. I've therefore bodged it on with cable ties so that its still more or less usable, and will try to find a reasonably priced second hand unit, preferably one that's got one side damaged already so I can scavenge it for parts.

Hertsdriver · 30 Oct 2019

Also popped in to JAZ Porsche to have a chat with them about a potential replacement of my mains bearings.... have spoken to grant at Hartech already about options, but as JAZ are literally round the corner from me that would be an easier option. Some nice cars there...

I had assumed when buying my car that as it had had a rebuild from OPC to address Borescoring, surely they would as a matter of course replace old bearings for new, but it turns out that after a protracted 'discussion' with OPC leicester to get them to give me a copy of the warranty invoice to Porsche GB, that was wrong. They fitted brand new crankcases (and as we know didnt bother to stamp them), fitted brand new pistons, new small ends but just left the crankshaft in its carrier and refitted it. I'm pretty appalled by this lack of attention and the previous owner wasnt given an option to perhaps replace them at cost or cost plus labour (but interestingly was given the option to replace the clutch as it was apart at parts cost). I cant think of a decent specialist that would not at least try to advise replacement on a car which at that point had done over 65k and was over 10 years old. Yes, in their defence they were addressing the bore scoring, and are only paid to do that but in my opinion it shows a lack of care and attention. :evil:
Interstign that they changed the IMS housing (99610502401) but not the bearing itself (which is one of the late 996 'weak' versions)

I must say that I spent such a long time prior to purchase reading through IMS advice/threads/horror stories, and the same with bore scoring that I didn't really give much thought to mains, but it now seems that I may be living on borrowed time as they have done 110k. There are 2 schools of thought:

1. It will be fine, plenty on higher miles than that, just change the oil and filter regularly for a good quality higher viscosity, warm it up properly (I know I always do and I believe Mark the previous owner did also during his 7 years and 65k) and it will be good - but for how long?

2. Get the engine out and get it done now before damage gets done to the crank.

It would appear to be a £4k or so job as the case needs splitting, and then you are into the normal man maths of 'while its there I might as well do the oil pump/IMS/tandem pump/AOS etc.... bit pissed off at the mo with the whole thing :x

Cannop · 30 Oct 2019

So still on original mains and big end bearings? I wouldn't be changing them as a preventative measure but I would if there were signs they need doing. Any hint of the engine becoming noisier than expected (low rumbling) or lower than expected oil pressure would tell me it's time to address them, generally mains/big ends don't fail catastrophically if the engine is and has been looked after.

In the meantime I'd put some money away each month not only to pay for the work when it really needs it but to pay for all the other preventative work that can be done whilst the engine is out and stripped. Even if you only get another couple of years use before you address it you could have the bill and more saved to soften the blow.

jl-c · 30 Oct 2019

A quote from Baz at Hartech, not I believe taken out of context.

"If the crankshaft is still OK, replacing the bearings during the rebuild extends their life once again but most show some wear by 50K and seriously need replacement by 90K. "

Hertsdriver · 31 Oct 2019

I believe that to be sound advice. Any engine builder worth their salt would change all metal bearings during a rebuild (apart from OPC it would seem...)

The problem always with mains is that there is no rules around when they will let go. There are plenty of 996 and 997's with higher miles than mine that have not suffered mains failure, and there are plenty with less miles that have suffered it. It all comes down to how the car has been treated in its life, and while I know that for at least the last 7 yrs/68k it has been treated with care, the damage may have already been done to cause wear in the first 8 yrs/42k (where it had OPC services at 14k, 25k and 35k)

:dont know:

jl-c · 31 Oct 2019

Hertsdriver said:
I believe that to be sound advice. Any engine builder worth their salt would change all metal bearings during a rebuild (apart from OPC it would seem...)

The problem always with mains is that there is no rules around when they will let go. There are plenty of 996 and 997's with higher miles than mine that have not suffered mains failure, and there are plenty with less miles that have suffered it. It all comes down to how the car has been treated in its life, and while I know that for at least the last 7 yrs/68k it has been treated with care, the damage may have already been done to cause wear in the first 8 yrs/42k (where it had OPC services at 14k, 25k and 35k)

:dont know:

unfortunately too true :dont know:

Rojdog · 31 Oct 2019

Great read Herts, lovely car and the best colour! Props for getting stuck right in. :thumbs:

Hertsdriver · 1 Nov 2019

Thank you Rog :thumbs:

First 911 - Early 2004 3.6 Gen 1

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