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Underbody Clean & Protect
- Thread starter MattyR
- Start date
bullet-proof_biscuit said:
Oh absolutely. It's fab stuff but wanted to let the current protection run its course. Next time I plan on upping the ante with a hot wash or steam clean. The detailed (DN4) is looking into a heated water supply for his van (he's a mobile detailer). Watch this space, as they say.
hopeydaze
Spa-Francorchamps
- Joined
- 6 Jan 2012
- Messages
- 272
Don't be too harsh - there is some useful information being shared here. In particular using ACF-50. I have a 993 which doesn't do a lot of mlles in the winter.drmark said:
I am curious (ands sceptical) about this Atom Mac stuff being sprayed on the discs. A disc have two sides and I'm curious if it can really protect the back of the disc.
drmark said:This thread is a spoof right? Using a Karcher to (mostly) clean the plastic under trays and then spraying with corrosion inhibitor? Your detailer has you just where he wants you
But, if that floats your boat...
Not at all Dr Mark. It's actually a simple case of wanting to clean the underside of the car (as you would the bodywork etc) and further preserve areas not protected by under trays and subject to the vagaries of the elements.
If one does a quick Google image search of the underside of a Porsche 997 C2, it will quickly become apparent where road detritus can find a happy home. This was a quick excercise in removing aforementioned road build-up and taking the precautionary measure of applying Bilt Hamber Atom Mac as required.
I personally don't feel that to be a waste of time or resources, so I guess it does float my boat 🚤
Think I'm going to skip the ACF 50 and jump feet first into their Corrosion Block !
This stuff looks like a more heavy duty application and something that has the ability to cure rust and stop the advancing rot ? I'll apply it under the wheel arches once I've removed the wheels and the arch liners, also coat the suspension uprights and springs and get up into the top mounts.
Still not sure if ACF 50 is best for the suspension as the block might be too thick ?
As for the atom Mac, I'm not sure applying this when the disks are new will keep them looking that way, it doesn't last and on the brakes with the heat generated it will probably be all off in an hour ? The application of this stuff is for appearance more than anything, sure it will help relieve corrosion on garden spades or even on bike frames but the brake application is mostly used for stopping the callipers binding on after washing and then putting the car away wet and rust forming, it's the braking then that removes this rusty residue and the flakes when red hot hit the wheels and penetrate the lacquer which then let's salt in helping corrosion to get under the surface and start to blemish the wheels, apply when wet thro straight after hosing and it will help coat the surface resisting the air turning the disk rusty. I don't think as above it'll do much for the inside edge or between the venting inside the disk ?
This stuff looks like a more heavy duty application and something that has the ability to cure rust and stop the advancing rot ? I'll apply it under the wheel arches once I've removed the wheels and the arch liners, also coat the suspension uprights and springs and get up into the top mounts.
Still not sure if ACF 50 is best for the suspension as the block might be too thick ?
As for the atom Mac, I'm not sure applying this when the disks are new will keep them looking that way, it doesn't last and on the brakes with the heat generated it will probably be all off in an hour ? The application of this stuff is for appearance more than anything, sure it will help relieve corrosion on garden spades or even on bike frames but the brake application is mostly used for stopping the callipers binding on after washing and then putting the car away wet and rust forming, it's the braking then that removes this rusty residue and the flakes when red hot hit the wheels and penetrate the lacquer which then let's salt in helping corrosion to get under the surface and start to blemish the wheels, apply when wet thro straight after hosing and it will help coat the surface resisting the air turning the disk rusty. I don't think as above it'll do much for the inside edge or between the venting inside the disk ?
To be fair the undertrays do a very good job of keeping most dirt and crud away from the floor and pipework, I removed mine to inspect everything, all good so a thorough hands on clean then soaked everything with ACF50 and let it drip for a day or two.
The most important things to do are regular arch liner removal to remove anything thats collected there but also the jacking points, these hold crap and need cleaning out and coating in ACF50, if the sealer has peeled off them due to unprotected jacking its good practice to 'touch in" with brushable sealer.
Paul
The most important things to do are regular arch liner removal to remove anything thats collected there but also the jacking points, these hold crap and need cleaning out and coating in ACF50, if the sealer has peeled off them due to unprotected jacking its good practice to 'touch in" with brushable sealer.
Paul
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