Centre Radiator question

jl-c · 15 Oct 2019

Exactly the line I was going down! I was intending to get a custom sized one made as it would work out slightly cheaper but, is it worth the hassle? Gates do a 95C stat which is the one I was thinking of going with as according to what I understand Barry from Hartech saying, really the centre rad if fitted should not be used at all unless the other two are at saturation point ie. track use very close to car in front, hence the 95C rating so basically it will never open in normal road use. Could get a Meziere one and just turn down the stubs to suit the hose diameter. There appears to be sufficient meat on them to lose a mm or so without issue. Don't know yet, will take a bit of experimentation plus a way of securing it so it doesn't move about and damage itself or other things very close to it! It is surprising how much force loose things have when on track and giving it beans :grin:

Hertsdriver · 15 Oct 2019

Old renault 5's had an inline thermostat, but its OD is too large to go in the tiny pipework

The ideal would be a thermostat thats small enough to sit in the the end of the metal hose connector, that way it would be held in place by the clips and no cutting would be required.... but all thermostats are the same size (54mm) so thats a no go

jl-c · 15 Oct 2019

Hertsdriver said:
Old renault 5's had an inline thermostat, but its OD is too large to go in the tiny pipework

The ideal would be a thermostat thats small enough to sit in the the end of the metal hose connector, that way it would be held in place by the clips and no cutting would be required.... but all thermostats are the same size (54mm) so thats a no go

I know, it's a pain! Gone down that route too, the Gordini was the highest temp one but still not high enough. As you say, it would have been ideal if one could be inserted in the pipe itself. Unless we could make a smaller diameter one ? :dont know:

Hertsdriver · 15 Oct 2019

Thinking this through, would a 3 way inline with a return not be a better idea to stop the possibility of dead flow areas in the system? could add a T peice return in somewhere for when the thermostat is closed

jl-c · 15 Oct 2019

Hertsdriver said:
Thinking this through, would a 3 way inline with a return not be a better idea to stop the possibility of dead flow areas in the system? could add a T peice return in somewhere for when the thermostat is closed

Good point, however what is the state of the vehicle prior to fitting a centre rad? Both lines terminated in a blank so, I assumed you would not need a bypass. I may be wrong :?:

Hertsdriver · 15 Oct 2019

good point :floor:

chicb · 15 Oct 2019

If O.D of hose is 29mm as stated above, the I.D cannot be 26mm as it gives a wall thickness of 1.5mm. You can easily squeeze this flat with 2 fingers.
From Parker hose catalogue for coolant hoses, a hose with 30mm O.D. has an I.D. of 19.1mm.
Hope this helps

jl-c · 15 Oct 2019

chicb said:
If O.D of hose is 29mm as stated above, the I.D cannot be 26mm as it gives a wall thickness of 1.5mm. You can easily squeeze this flat with 2 fingers.
From Parker hose catalogue for coolant hoses, a hose with 30mm O.D. has an I.D. of 19.1mm.
Hope this helps

if this is so, then I may just have the solution! Let me get back to everyone.

bullet-proof_biscuit · 21 Oct 2019

Hello

Yes sorry not allowed to divulge mine.

Inline thermostat as per that link to the US one for $66 is exactly what I was going to install originally though, no divert needed!

The 3-4" of dead leg won't be a problem with the turbulence, besides, this isn't potable water hose, we don't need to worry about legionella forming in stagnant water!

If the hose is 26mm ID, 1" is 25.4mm so I'd go for a 1" inline t'stat housing from yank, assuming the hose barbs are enough to retain it, and some decent jubilee clamps. Cut into the long hose as above.

Hertsdriver · 22 Oct 2019

bullet-proof_biscuit said:
Hello

Yes sorry not allowed to divulge mine.

Inline thermostat as per that link to the US one for $66 is exactly what I was going to install originally though, no divert needed!

The 3-4" of dead leg won't be a problem with the turbulence, besides, this isn't potable water hose, we don't need to worry about legionella forming in stagnant water!

If the hose is 26mm ID, 1" is 25.4mm so I'd go for a 1" inline t'stat housing from yank, assuming the hose barbs are enough to retain it, and some decent jubilee clamps. Cut into the long hose as above.

Great, secrets, fantastic. Might have helped if you had stated that in the original post...

Point us in the direction of a 1" inline stat and were all laughing :thumb:

bullet-proof_biscuit · 22 Oct 2019

Hertsdriver said:
bullet-proof_biscuit said:

Hello

Yes sorry not allowed to divulge mine.

Inline thermostat as per that link to the US one for $66 is exactly what I was going to install originally though, no divert needed!

The 3-4" of dead leg won't be a problem with the turbulence, besides, this isn't potable water hose, we don't need to worry about legionella forming in stagnant water!

If the hose is 26mm ID, 1" is 25.4mm so I'd go for a 1" inline t'stat housing from yank, assuming the hose barbs are enough to retain it, and some decent jubilee clamps. Cut into the long hose as above.

Click to expand...

Great, secrets, fantastic. Might have helped if you had stated that in the original post...

Point us in the direction of a 1" inline stat and were all laughing :thumb:

I did state it in my original post, and so did the previous poster in this thread...

I was going to DIY and use one of these options, either adapt down to 1", blank off the bypass, or figure out which other manufacturer's factory part was nearest to suit 1" hose;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A8-...677894&hash=item4444c01138:g:z8YAAOSw7ytdbREP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Billet-I...a=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...096326?hash=item25fc161806:g:Cf4AAOSwlf1dGypb

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-TUNED-...094250?hash=item5d82c7daaa:g:9XEAAOSwBfhb2I9o

C4Silver · 22 Oct 2019

Audi A8 one, looks the correct length and probably of the same materials as Porsche. And for less than £15

It's all down to the diameter,

Hertsdriver · 23 Oct 2019

and what temperature it operates at :thumb:

bullet-proof_biscuit · 24 Oct 2019

I was having a really posh moment, and thought about using a 12v solenoid valve, with an inline temperature switch adapters, like one of those radiator fan switch, that way, the opening temperature can be changed easily, or even over ridden from a dash switch when in a 'race' (track) situation). Probably a using a heater circuit divert valve. Food for thought.

jl-c · 24 Oct 2019

bullet-proof_biscuit said:
I was having a really posh moment, and thought about using a 12v solenoid valve, with an inline temperature switch adapters, like one of those radiator fan switch, that way, the opening temperature can be changed easily, or even over ridden from a dash switch when in a 'race' (track) situation). Probably a using a heater circuit divert valve. Food for thought.

Way,way ahead of you. Found solenoid valves etc but sometimes if the solution is so expensive for ( road use or track day only ) then it is more sensible to take the cheapest option. If we have created an issue by adding the centre radiator, then remove it! I am still pursuing the stat solution and have parts on order but may in the end just blank the rad off or rip it out again and put it down to experience. I know Clarkson said the 911 is a triumph of engineering over common sense but I refuse to go down the same route!

Centre Radiator question

jl-c

Montreal

Hertsdriver

Hockenheim

jl-c

Montreal

Hertsdriver

Hockenheim

jl-c

Montreal

Hertsdriver

Hockenheim

chicb

Monza

jl-c

Montreal

bullet-proof_biscuit

New member

Hertsdriver

Hockenheim

bullet-proof_biscuit

New member

C4Silver

Sao Paulo

Hertsdriver

Hockenheim

bullet-proof_biscuit

New member

jl-c

Montreal

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