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Rust. What should I inspect when I pull my 997 apart?

C11BRA

Suzuka
Joined
30 Mar 2015
Messages
1,063
Over the winter or early next year, I will have access to a car hoist for a few days, so....I plan to remove the bumpers, underbody covers & arch liners.

After a few corrosion issues on my old 996, I've already had a quick look under the 997 and it's much cleaner (it is 9 years newer!)

So far I plan to check:
Power steering hose clamps.
Fuel hoses to injector rails. (Had to replace the 996 set)
Clutch release hose crimp connector. (Had to replace the 996 hose)
Brake lines.
Vacuum pumps (need advice on these please)
Exhaust studs.
AC pipes & condensers.
I think I read DeMort mention cross over pipes? Are these coolant?

What is the best preventative method? I have that funky Kurust treatment that turns rust black & I've heard good things about ACF-50. Rub down, treat them paint off grease?

Any advice appreciated as always.
 
You will need a bucket for all the debris behind the liners.
 
In respect to the actual body you should find very few issues with regards to rust, unfortunately that isn't always the case with the parts bolted to it.

Remove the rear arch liner, this is a serious dirt trap, also remove the sill end black plastic trim, it has a fastener bonded to it that clips to the wheel arch, this rusts badly and you dont want it affecting the arch. Unfortunately the clip is not a seperate item so new sill trims are about £45 per side but worth doing.

Front strut tubes can rust as can the coil springs

The diagonal cross braces front and rear can also rust, front usually not as bad as they are totally underneath the plastic shield but the rears are susceptible, I had all four powder coated.

PAS hoses on the 997 dont seem to suffer as bad as the 996 and early boxster, just done the pipes on my wifes 986

Front to rear brake pipes should be fine but coat with a protectant

With wheels off clean all the solid brake lines in the arches and on the caliper, pay attention to the pipe fittings, these corrode solidly together and its these little fittings that give the most grief when further brake maintenance is required.

The spring type hose clips on hoses under the engine corrode and weaken allowing the odd drip of coolant

The front coolant hoses and cross over pipee, also the rear ones , corrode from the inside out, look for pink staining or crystals around the alloy to rubber hose.

All the steel brackets on the front subframe that hold the cross over pipes corrode

Maybe this sounds grim but these are all unbolt and throw away parts buy new from OPC, most are reasonably cheap, treat and replace.

I'd rather swap a few pipes and brackets than replace wings and floorpans !

I use ACF50 and Dinitrol in the cavities

Cheers, Paul
 
In respect to the a tual body you should find very few issues with regards to rust, unfortunately that is t always the case with the parts bolted to it.

Remove the rear arch liner, this is a serious dirt trap, also remove the sill end black plastic trim, it has a fastener bonded to it that clips to the wheel arch, this rusts badly and you dont want it affecting the arch. Unfortunately the clip is not a seperate item so new sill trims are about £45 per side but worth doing.

Front strut tubes can rust as can the coil springs

The diagan cross braces front and rear can also rust, front usually not as bad as they are totally underneath the plastic shield but the rears are susceptible, I had all four powder coated.

PAS hoses on the 997 dont seem to suffer as bad as 996 and early boxster, just done the pipes on my wifes 986

Front to rear brake pipes should be fine but coat with a protectant

With wheels off clean all the solid brake lines in the arches and on the caliper, pay attentionto tbe pipe fittings, these corrode solidly together and its these little fittings that give the most grief when further brake maintenance is required.

The spring thpe hose clips on hoses under the engine corrode and weaken allowing the odd drip of coolant

The front coolant hoses and cross over pipee, also the rear ones , corrode from the i side out, look for pink staining or crystals around the alloy to rubber hose.

All the steel brackets on the front subframe that hold the cross over pipes corrode

Maybe this sounds grim but these are all unbolt and throw away parts buy new from OPC, most are reasonably cheap, treat and replace.

I'd rather swap a few pipes and brackets than replace wings and floorpans !

Cheers, Paul
 
Thanks Ruddy.

I'll have a pre-look and order the clips etc that you mentioned.
 
The worst area I found for corrosion on the body was after I removed the heatshields that sit above the exhaust silencers. The area behind the rear wheels but below the rear lights. The paint was thin and there was lots of microblisters filled with water. It seemed like I had caught things before serious rust had taken a grip. I did wonder if this area was like this because of condensation being trapped between the body and the close fitting heatshield?? Not sure. This area just seemed to be a lot worse than any other part of the car.

The other area that had the start of corrosion was the engine mounts. The square areas where the two mounts bolt to the body. Mine were pretty horrible rusty looking. I only managed to clean back to metal and treat because I had the egine out though. Pretty awkward to clean back to bare metal in this area.

I used a paint system called POR15. It gets pretty good reviews. I was impressed with how tough the finished surface was.
Hope this link works.....

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-rust-paint-treatment-big-kit-gloss-black/

Craig
 
Thanks Craig. That Por15 looks incredible. I'll order some.

Phil. Are these the tandem pumps? I think I have invoices. Replaced recently. X2.



And the exhaust headers are bolted in. Rather than studs on my 996. Do you think they have already been upgraded to bolts?

 
No. But are the factory studs or bolts?
 
From new they are bolts with just the head showing against the manifold flange.

One of two scenarios happens with age, the head becomes so corroded sockets spin on them or secondly the socket fits and when undoing the bolt shears leaving the snapped piece in the head.

At this point you really need an indiee with access to the correct jig to drill the snapped bolt out and not drill to deep into the oil gallery

Once the old bolts are out then you can replace with studs and nuts in a much improved material.

The heads on my original bolts looked horrendous however DG Porsche managed to remove all of them without any snapping, unheard of, they were replaced with studs and titanium nuts.... and new freeflow manifolds, Topgear sports cats and gundo'd boxes.

Use good quality fasteners and good quality gaskets.
 
I'm in the same situation, regards front coolant hoses, use your favourite waxoil-esque corrosion inhibitor and coat the connections before they fail, and same for all underbody steelwork to be fair..

Your tandem pump is fine, your manifold bolts look about ready for replacement before drilling is required.. here's a handy link I have saved..

https://titanclassics.com/product/m8-x-40mm-titanium-stud-part-no-95617-08625/

Beers!
 

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