Turbo maintenance/refurb

Gazc2 · 8 Sep 2019

So a fairly succesfull weekend with all the nuts removed from both the manifolds and turbos, 1 stud came out the pass side manifold and all three on the drivers side so these will all be replaced not a problem you would rather they came out than snapped ,as Nick mentioned the studs are not the problem I am going to run a die up all the studs on the turbos to clean all the remnants from the nuts and see how they look.

It is a bit of an eyeopner how bad some of the nuts were don't think some of them would be keeping a tight seal before much longer and the exhaust is also beginning to look worse for wear 12 years old now if you haven't checked these I would have a look.

There is no doubt its a pain of a job that takes a while but slow and steady and its all doable

so plan is to get some studs and manifold gasket ordered up and now the exhaust is off see if the 02 sensors will come out (wishfull thinking)

some pics of old studs,new nuts fitted to manifold and the cuttings :thumb:

easternjets · 8 Sep 2019

Good job Gaz glad to see you've put some copper grease on, it might not be the magic bullet but it gives you a chance of getting them off.

Pity they didn't make the nuts out of the same material the studs are made from.

Gazc2 · 13 Sep 2019

The new studs and manifold gasket arrived so set about installation and running a die up all the studs on the turbo`s, good news is they all cleaned up peachy and now cleaned and ready for the exhaust to go on so delighted to dodge any bullets on this exercise

(think I will ask the mods to merge this with my refurb thread)

Gazc2 · 13 Sep 2019

Bit of an oil weep going on at the back right hand corner not sure if its coming from that big coupling so will give the whole area a clean and see where its coming from.

darkhorse · 15 Sep 2019

Looks like it could be the sealing washer on the compression fitting that feeds the oil return, I would clean it all down and run it and see like you say*
Mine wasn't leaking but I replaced that pipe as it was looking a bit worse for wear at the metal crimp joints. What I will say is that it was a total b**ch to get off; applying heat in that area is not a good idea as it will perish the orings in pump behind maybe. Although I tried Map heat onto the nut, there is oil in there that you cant remove as it doesnt fully drain so its not a great plan and you cant get much heat on it..

In the end the entire compression piece unscrewed from the engine, but joint from pipe nut to the start of the coupler would not undo no matter what i tried. And you cant undo the nut from the head unless the nut will spin on the end of the pipe.
Having said that; if I hadnt had the engine out and stripped I would have tried more things.

So tackle that with caution! I had to cut the pipe at each side of the engine and then removed the fittings, cleaned it all up and fitted a new one (£500 worth of pipe) and new couplers and sealing washers.

Is the other side the same? Refitting the pipe would require a lot of work I think, at minimum engine dropped a bit, remove rear mount bracket, undo pipe clip from bottom of main front coolant manifold, remove turbo on bank 2 (a whole rats nest on its own.) and then thread the new up to the oil tank. It may not need turbo off, but the turbo pipes would make it a pain as the oil tank feed side of it is chunky.

darkhorse · 15 Sep 2019

Looks wet above though, would be worth taking pics of stuff higher up as well, and post them up

Gazc2 · 15 Sep 2019

I have cleaned it all up and their is nothing obvious it will be next weekend before I get back under to take some more pics :thumb:

So failed miserably trying to get the 02 sensors out (well 1 came out) rounded off the other 3 so have ordered up some new ones. stuck the cats on today all good.

Stripped out the brakes either side and decided to have a look at the actuator arms as it was reported I had one sticking so further investigation showed pass side was working fine gave it a spray and grease worked it back and forth for ten minutes and gave it a wipe down.

The drivers side was also working but occasionaly stick up and not return now I`m not convinced it was the actuator arm although probably contributed there was some corrosion on the turbo body that was restricting the lever that the arm connects two so gave the whole area a clean up and the same treatment as the other side and all seems good. a couple of points I have read on these is when you switch the ignition on the arms cycle through (I have the battery disconnected so didn't try this) and also it needs a reset on a PIWIS if its been sticking so that for later.

Not any pics as you cant see anything behind the turbo

The tandem pump cover had the usual surface rust so treated it with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel then a coat of paint.

darkhorse · 15 Sep 2019

Looking good progress. Exhaust looks nice!

I could be wrong but I dont see why you would need PIWIS unless you fit a new actuator. The ECU knows the range yours works in, it has just been stuck at a certain position. Should just be all ok if that was the issue?

I may be wrong but I read the other day that 997 turbo tandem pumps were NLA all over the place? Is that correct does anyone know? I dont need one, I fitted a billet ACP cover to mine, but its always concerning to hear of parts being unavailable.!

darkhorse · 15 Sep 2019

What condition is your turbo in the centre housing where the lines come and go? any pics?

Gazc2 · 15 Sep 2019

The turbo housings are fine although there has been horror stories about these being beyond repair in some cases I thought the surface corroision around the arm on the actuator might have been part of the problem but not really sure, In regards needing to reset the actuators this was a new one on me as well I read it in the article that Sid from Porsche torque did for Porsche 911 world.

Hadnt heard there was an issue getting a tandem pump do ACP where you got your cover not sell the pierburg pumps for the turbo ?

darkhorse · 16 Sep 2019

Did you get a part number for the studs Gazc2? Think I am going to go OEM
Got the turbos out of the packaging to fit tonight and found they had no studs in ....

c:

Cheers

Gazc2 · 16 Sep 2019

I ordered them up from design911

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod128160/Porsche-Stud-for-Turbo-M8x22-90008105900-90008105901/

darkhorse · 16 Sep 2019

Gazc2 said:
I ordered them up from design911

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod128160/Porsche-Stud-for-Turbo-M8x22-90008105900-90008105901/

Perfect, cheers. I couldn't find them on there last night :thumb:

Gazc2 · 22 Sep 2019

So go the rear shocks out today to fit the lowering springs all pretty straightforward.

strip out the bose sound shelf
slacken the bracket I took the front nut off and just slackened the back
disconnect the pasm lead & cut the cable tie attaching it to the tray
loosen the top nut its a19mm I bought an £8 scaffolders podger from ebay so I could feed the PASM lead through which worked spot on.
I removed the anti roll bar completely
disconnected the two top arms on the hub
Removed the three 13mm nuts on the top studs
Strutt pulled out

gave everything a clean up changed the spring over all straightforward,takes a bit of work to put back in slip it in at the top the use a podger/screwdriver to lever it into position at the bottom this was a bit fiddly however got one in position still got the bolt to go in as ran out of time.

darkhorse · 23 Sep 2019

Nice work Gaz. I had to look up what a Podger was

Look forward to seeing more as you go through it.

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