I changed my Track rod/rod end on my 997 c2 today

allenh · 23 Aug 2019

I had read a few threads on here about what to expect and how to do it. Watched a couple of youtube videos too.

Here was my experience for anyone else thinking of doing it.

1. Jacking the car onto stands. No trouble at all. Used the SGS 2.5 tonne low profile jack (£100) and their axle stands with rubber pucks that I bought from ebay.

2. Getting wheel off. No trouble. Bought a couple of those guide rods from ebay and it helped a lot getting the wheel back on.

3. Popping the ball joint couldn't be done by hitting it. The small tool I got from halfords wouldn't fit so I had to get the scissor type. Worked easily after a trip to the shops.

4. Getting the metal clip off the end of the gaiter/steering rack. Nowhere near as bad as people make out. Slipped a screwdriver in and twisted. Had to do it a few times, but basically straightforward.

5. Unscrewing the track rod. Piece of cake with £30 amazon purchased special tool. There are several types so let me know if you want to know which one.

6. Replacing the new gaiter over the end of the steering rack with the metal ring. A terrible job. There is no space to get your fingers in. Must have taken me nearly 2 hours of skinned knuckles (mind you I did stop for lunch in the middle). The thing that worked seem to be heating it with hairdryer (many times over) and using the pre-closed ring to push it with a long screwdriver. Frankly I don't really know if it's on properly, but it's not moving.

7. Putting the bush back in the wheel joint. The top of the track rod end has a small hex bolt (Lemforder parts) and it couldn't really take the necessary torque. Managed in the end, but couldn't really get the torque wrench on it.

All in all a tricky job (worst part - putting gaiter on), but just about doable DIY.

Allen

Kbald · 24 Aug 2019

Well done allenh always a sense of achievement doing these things. A couple of extra tips if I may.

Re point 6 it's easier to buy a decent stainless steel hose clamp large size and use this to hold the gaitor on as you can get a socket on to tighten it with the right extensions and wiggle bars.

Re 7, the new ball joint another Jack underneath pushing it hard into the hub should ensure it doesn't spin when doing it up, easier with a rattle gun too.

Hope this is ok to add, may help someone in the future.

deMort · 24 Aug 2019

First off i have to say that unless you do these for a living then it's not that easy .. it may sound like it is .. but it isn't .

Actually when you do it for a living it can still be a pain .

So all in all well done :thumb:

i just need to clarify something for my own peace of mind .. See the image below .. is it the item i highlighted the one you had trouble with ?

The clip supplied to clamp this in place has to be crimped after its fitted and your not going to have access to do that with the subframe in place ..if not crimped then the gaiter will come off on a full lock of the steering .

I use a jubilee clip , remove the front undertray and a long screwdriver just about reaches it .

To get the gaiter on the rack is actually simple .. push the gaiter up against the rack ( it has to butt up against it then turn the steering to a full opposite lock .. it will pull the gaiter onto the rack .

As i said .. i'm just checking for myself

allenh · 24 Aug 2019

Thanks chaps.

These tips/points are excellent.

1. The hose clip - are you saying that you do it from underneath after removing the undertray? I didn't remove the undertray, but beginning to think that it was a mistake.

2. Putting jack under ball joint - brilliant idea!

3. Yes, the highlighted part was the ***** - actually the gaiter was terrible. What I actually did was leave the ring pre-closed around the end of the gaiter (it's got a lip) and attempt to shove it over the lip (flange?) at the end of the steering rack. I did feel a satisfying clunk as something slid into place and tugged at it and it seemed pretty solid. But to be honest, I have no idea what's on and what isn't as there is no way to see.

4. The tip about turning the steering to full lock sounds excellent. Wish I'd known that before.

5. And excellent point about the jubilee clip and the undertrays.

I've only done one side so I need to go back to do the other side and I think I might redo the gaiter on the first side using this approach.

I was considering taking the steering rack out, but that worries me as it's probably another whole can of worms.

Allen

Kbald · 25 Aug 2019

No need to take the steering rack out just take the under trays off and it makes it much easier! And use jubilee/hose clamps to make your life simpiler. :thumb:

Every time you do a job you learn for the next one! I certainly have

allenh · 25 Aug 2019

I've just had a google and can't find anything. Does anyone know of where to find instructions to take the undertray off?

I found something for a cayman, but not for a 997.

deMort · 25 Aug 2019

Track rod end is no. 8 , inner rack arm is no.6 .

If replacing no.8 then you don't really need to do the gaiter as well .

I assume you are replacing no.6 .

Most of us don't use the clip no. 4 as without the rack out you can't crimp it once it's in place .

We slide a jubilee clip over the gaiter once its in place .. steering lock full turn basically once its butted up.

The difficulty is in holding it whilst using a screwdriver from underneath to do it up ( screw part of the clip needs to be on top and pointing downwards ...

A second person is often helpful to either reach in and hold it or use a long screwdriver to hold it whilst you do it up .

Hence the need to remove the front under tray .

On a ramp then i don't .. i just remove the fixings and pull the front section down ..

To remove it .. a bit of a pain if on stands .. the fixings are obvious but the tray needs to slide backwards as there's a clip facing forwards holding it in place .

The center undertrays stop this from being possible .. again on a ramp i undo the front fixings of the center undertrays and slide the front one back whilst pulling the center ones down . ..

You will need to remove the center undertrays .. or you can pull the front section down .. your choice .. it will pull out from the arch liners each side .. the plastic will flex ..

you'll understand that part when you look .

The official porsche instructions to replace this arm .. remove the rack ..

You are in a sense cheating so it will be problematic ... this is what we call bonus making .. we cut corners but charge book time and the OPC mechanic gets paid more .

To get at the rack you would undo the x2 bolts holding the rack .. undo all the 18mm bolts holding the subframe and let it drop .. you then have access to the rack .. easy enough .. in a sense

allenh · 25 Aug 2019

Thanks!

Will have a look

allenh · 28 Aug 2019

Well I had a look at the manual.

Do you really need to buy new fixings when replacing the undertray? and any easy place to get them?

Kbald · 28 Aug 2019

If these are the same as the 996 they can be reused if not rusted and removed correctly or you could use cable ties to hold it on threaded through the clip holes. 996 clips from the OPC are only a pound of so each so not too expensive

deMort · 28 Aug 2019

allenh said:
Well I had a look at the manual.

Do you really need to buy new fixings when replacing the undertray? and any easy place to get them?

You don't .. if one has corroded or the plastic nut is knackered then yes .. other than that just reuse ...

Got to admit i never knew that was in the instructions ..

I guess i really should read them more often before ignoring them

I changed my Track rod/rod end on my 997 c2 today

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