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O/S/R Brake Locked On.
- Thread starter Phil the Fluter
- Start date
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
I've just ordered a brand-new caliper at £175 + VAT plus delivery.
Total cost = £221.99
I tried the discount code but, apparently, I have to spend £300 to qualify.
Oh well, a couple of hundred quid isn't a fortune in the grand scheme of things (as has already been said) and I'll have the peace of mind of knowing it's been put together by somebody who's done the job before – unlike my good self.
Onwards and upwards!
Total cost = £221.99
I tried the discount code but, apparently, I have to spend £300 to qualify.
Oh well, a couple of hundred quid isn't a fortune in the grand scheme of things (as has already been said) and I'll have the peace of mind of knowing it's been put together by somebody who's done the job before – unlike my good self.
Onwards and upwards!
Good move Phil, hope you get the old one off without discovering too many other issues.
Re the sticker in the frunk...Is asbestos bad really for your health..? Wish I had known that given all the contact I had with the stuff over the years and not just while working on brakes... (-:
Iain.. I started work a little ahead of you in 64 (-: and as a child of the make do and mend generation the ability to be self reliant and learn to repair everything was all important when new was just not an option. learned to gas weld, braze,solder, MIG weld panel beat, spray paint, electrics and a few other things I messed with over the years, suffered digital frustration overload in the workplace trying to keep everyone safe and not damage multi-million pound machinery in the process.... I also know what responsibility is...worked in situations you would not be allowed to these days, long before H&S came into being. Most of my cars were ever in need of repair, have never owned a new car or m/cycle...some were dragged out of gardens and brought back from the dead..I learned a bit in the process, and much of that that was in the days long before the interweb, so no friendly expert like you Iain to make life so very much simpler....But hey, it was great just the way it was.. All I need to do now is find a Porsche to suit before I drop of my perch...Very grateful for all I have learned from you, the problem I have is in trying to remember it... :floor:
Re the sticker in the frunk...Is asbestos bad really for your health..? Wish I had known that given all the contact I had with the stuff over the years and not just while working on brakes... (-:
Iain.. I started work a little ahead of you in 64 (-: and as a child of the make do and mend generation the ability to be self reliant and learn to repair everything was all important when new was just not an option. learned to gas weld, braze,solder, MIG weld panel beat, spray paint, electrics and a few other things I messed with over the years, suffered digital frustration overload in the workplace trying to keep everyone safe and not damage multi-million pound machinery in the process.... I also know what responsibility is...worked in situations you would not be allowed to these days, long before H&S came into being. Most of my cars were ever in need of repair, have never owned a new car or m/cycle...some were dragged out of gardens and brought back from the dead..I learned a bit in the process, and much of that that was in the days long before the interweb, so no friendly expert like you Iain to make life so very much simpler....But hey, it was great just the way it was.. All I need to do now is find a Porsche to suit before I drop of my perch...Very grateful for all I have learned from you, the problem I have is in trying to remember it... :floor:
Luddite ... you and me are from a different age .. you have a good few years on me though so i salute you for still being part of this trade and offering excellent advise .
we would never have thought of replacing something .. we repaired .. we are Mechanics ..
Times have changed though .. for the Home mechanic there is still this option but the lack of parts .. the cheapness of a replacement part often makes a repair not viable .
At work it certainly isn't .. well to a degree .. we repair engines / gearboxes etc but items like an alternator .. you and me would be replacing the reg .. cleaning the com .. fitting new brushes ..
Sigh .. i miss those days .. we were TRUE mechanics back then .. these days more of a unit fitter at times .
But it has also moved on electrically .. you would Hate what i have to do these days .. imagine 20 ohms being the difference of something working or not working .. that's what we deal with .. fault codes .. reading values for sensors and trying to find a slight discrepancy on actual values to point us in a direction of the fault .
Everything is electric these days and as its my area i do kinda enjoy it .. but it's hard work .
Luddite is a very appt name .. i know the meaning and i think it suits both of us to a degree .. but as i still do this for a living then i've had to evolve and learn these new systems ..
So far i'm good to a 991 g2 .. but sooner or later like all of us i will stop understanding the new systems and my days will be numbered ..
Old mechanics don't die .. they are just outgrown .
Phil . we haven't forgotten you although it's been a slight hijack of your post .. keep us up to date please
we would never have thought of replacing something .. we repaired .. we are Mechanics ..
Times have changed though .. for the Home mechanic there is still this option but the lack of parts .. the cheapness of a replacement part often makes a repair not viable .
At work it certainly isn't .. well to a degree .. we repair engines / gearboxes etc but items like an alternator .. you and me would be replacing the reg .. cleaning the com .. fitting new brushes ..
Sigh .. i miss those days .. we were TRUE mechanics back then .. these days more of a unit fitter at times .
But it has also moved on electrically .. you would Hate what i have to do these days .. imagine 20 ohms being the difference of something working or not working .. that's what we deal with .. fault codes .. reading values for sensors and trying to find a slight discrepancy on actual values to point us in a direction of the fault .
Everything is electric these days and as its my area i do kinda enjoy it .. but it's hard work .
Luddite is a very appt name .. i know the meaning and i think it suits both of us to a degree .. but as i still do this for a living then i've had to evolve and learn these new systems ..
So far i'm good to a 991 g2 .. but sooner or later like all of us i will stop understanding the new systems and my days will be numbered ..
Old mechanics don't die .. they are just outgrown .
Phil . we haven't forgotten you although it's been a slight hijack of your post .. keep us up to date please
Billy Bumpsteer
Spa-Francorchamps
- Joined
- 12 Aug 2019
- Messages
- 339
I hope you get a caliper from your supplier, I suspect they may not have stock, your next best bet would be to get your one looked at and rebuilt, these are now like rocking horse poo.....
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
Thanks guys (Luddite, deMort and Billy).
On the subject of repairing rather than replacing, many years ago I had a Triumph TR7 and one of the pop-up headlamps suddenly stopped working.
I enquired about the cost of the various headlamp components (wanting to buy only as much of the unit as I needed) and was told I couldn't buy anything less than the complete Lucas headlamp motor – and it cost a lot of money (by my standards at the time).
I'm not an expert on electrics of any kind but I can think logically so, armed with a wiring diagram and a multimeter, I identified the exact point at which the current was failing to get through - it was a diode.
Rather than pay for a new motor, I disconnected the offending diode (I know nothing about electronics but I'd been told what this little faulty thing was called) and took it to a friend of mine who knew a bit about electronics.
I asked him if he had a similar item and he said he thought it was just an arbitrary diode and he opened a drawer, picked one out and gave it to me.
I took it home, soldered it into position in the circuit and voilà ! The headlamp worked perfectly.
Take that, Lucas!
On the subject of repairing rather than replacing, many years ago I had a Triumph TR7 and one of the pop-up headlamps suddenly stopped working.
I enquired about the cost of the various headlamp components (wanting to buy only as much of the unit as I needed) and was told I couldn't buy anything less than the complete Lucas headlamp motor – and it cost a lot of money (by my standards at the time).
I'm not an expert on electrics of any kind but I can think logically so, armed with a wiring diagram and a multimeter, I identified the exact point at which the current was failing to get through - it was a diode.
Rather than pay for a new motor, I disconnected the offending diode (I know nothing about electronics but I'd been told what this little faulty thing was called) and took it to a friend of mine who knew a bit about electronics.
I asked him if he had a similar item and he said he thought it was just an arbitrary diode and he opened a drawer, picked one out and gave it to me.
I took it home, soldered it into position in the circuit and voilà ! The headlamp worked perfectly.
Take that, Lucas!
Hope you do not come up against the issue Billy suggests Phil, but I suspect a re-con calliper will do the job just as well.
Well done on the TR task, you have the right attitude for sure..though these days there is less and ever less opportunity to do so when sealed for life units abound and designs of assemblies are for robotic construction which inhibits repair...
Example :- RR Evoque chrome plastic rear door speaker grill circa 200mm diameter impact damage, replacement required... How much for such a cheap looking bit of kit.... £50, tops..? Nah circa £900..and that does not include fitting of the whole new door card, given the grill is not available as a separate item...
Yup it is a very different world from the one in which I started out in when messing with machinery...But nothing stands still for sure.
Well done on the TR task, you have the right attitude for sure..though these days there is less and ever less opportunity to do so when sealed for life units abound and designs of assemblies are for robotic construction which inhibits repair...
Example :- RR Evoque chrome plastic rear door speaker grill circa 200mm diameter impact damage, replacement required... How much for such a cheap looking bit of kit.... £50, tops..? Nah circa £900..and that does not include fitting of the whole new door card, given the grill is not available as a separate item...
Yup it is a very different world from the one in which I started out in when messing with machinery...But nothing stands still for sure.
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
I haven't heard anything about the delivery of the new caliper yet but on the subject of potential difficulties while swapping the calipers over:
The brake pipe connector to the caliper seems to be relatively straightforward as, having cleaned it up and sprayed it with WD-40, it will turn with the help of a brake spanner.
The two bolts holding the caliper are going to be somewhat more difficult to remove as they're clearly on pretty tight and there's not much room to manoeuvre.
As you might expect, my single garage isn't equipped with a ramp and so applying a suitable amount of force to the spanner from above and in a limited space is going to be difficult – especially with the lower nut which is tucked away and won't accept a socket.
Oh well, life was never meant to be easy.
The brake pipe connector to the caliper seems to be relatively straightforward as, having cleaned it up and sprayed it with WD-40, it will turn with the help of a brake spanner.
The two bolts holding the caliper are going to be somewhat more difficult to remove as they're clearly on pretty tight and there's not much room to manoeuvre.
As you might expect, my single garage isn't equipped with a ramp and so applying a suitable amount of force to the spanner from above and in a limited space is going to be difficult – especially with the lower nut which is tucked away and won't accept a socket.
Oh well, life was never meant to be easy.
Billy Bumpsteer
Spa-Francorchamps
- Joined
- 12 Aug 2019
- Messages
- 339
If you used D9 contact them about the caliper, they wont have one I would bet!
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
Billy Bumpsteer said:
D9 ?
Who or what are they?
Oh wait - do you mean Design911 ?
Billy Bumpsteer
Spa-Francorchamps
- Joined
- 12 Aug 2019
- Messages
- 339
Yes, they list them at £175 for an aftermarket one (Dansk) but they dont have stock Im afraid :nooo:
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
Hmmm, I'll ask them about this tomorrow morning.
Hopefully, they'll have one in stock before too long.
If not, I'll be seeking a refund. :evil:
Hopefully, they'll have one in stock before too long.
If not, I'll be seeking a refund. :evil:
Billy Bumpsteer
Spa-Francorchamps
- Joined
- 12 Aug 2019
- Messages
- 339
Actually they may not be Dansk, the early aftermarket calipers are but they dont list 3.2 ones on the Dansk website.
Phil, good to read that the brake nut turns, and hopefully without twisting the pipe.. If you give the bleed nipple the same treatment it might move too, not that you will need to do that but at least you will have experience that may be necessary when bleeding the brakes as seems reasonable to do, changing the brake fluid while you are also changing the calliper..?
A re-con calliper will be fine if a new one is not available. or you can have a go as I initially suggested... (-:
Ever felt less than comfortable working with cars on ramps, was ever far happier rolling around the floor.... No need to tell you to be sure you have the car strongly supported, I have used off cuts of heavy oak beams for the task over many years, with STURDY axle stands when necessary.
It has been some time since I removed the callipers on my SC though from a poor memory I think I used a combination spanner, ring one end and open jaw the other, using the ring end and giving the spanner a thump with a heavy hammer can get things started if you can not get into a position to apply pressure to the spanner yourself.
I nailed my rotted first car back together in a single lock.up a couple of miles from home and with no electricity...Amazing what can be achieved with a bit of determination... (-:
A re-con calliper will be fine if a new one is not available. or you can have a go as I initially suggested... (-:
Ever felt less than comfortable working with cars on ramps, was ever far happier rolling around the floor.... No need to tell you to be sure you have the car strongly supported, I have used off cuts of heavy oak beams for the task over many years, with STURDY axle stands when necessary.
It has been some time since I removed the callipers on my SC though from a poor memory I think I used a combination spanner, ring one end and open jaw the other, using the ring end and giving the spanner a thump with a heavy hammer can get things started if you can not get into a position to apply pressure to the spanner yourself.
I nailed my rotted first car back together in a single lock.up a couple of miles from home and with no electricity...Amazing what can be achieved with a bit of determination... (-:
Phil the Fluter
Trainee
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2018
- Messages
- 56
Luddite said:
I've now got the brake-pipe nut turning freely and, although the hard pipe did try to rotate a very little way during the process, I don't think it moved anywhere near far enough to damage it.
My problem at this point is that I don't know whether or not the pipe is flexible enough to allow me to pull it out of the caliper. It's not a matter of moving the pipe up or down: it's a matter of pushing it backwards far enough to let it clear the caliper.
The other end of the hard pipe is joined to a flexible pipe and their point of union is held firm by some sort of clip on the top of the trailing arm. I understand I can remove this clip in order to allow more movement in the hard pipe but I'm not sure how to remove the clip.
Any advice would be appreciated.
As for the bleed nipple, I don't think that's going to move with the brake spanner and I haven't yet tried any other tools.
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