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MarkGolf
Hockenheim


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 723
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have always heard good things about the hunter, if a boggo alignment is all you need, there is no need to go to a fancy place. It drives pin straight now but I wish I could have done it myself just so all the numbers matched Floor

It's driving lovely now, just need to crack the chassis warning! Question
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1991 964 Carrera
2005 997 Carrera S
2008 957 Cayenne GTS
2003 Boxster 2.7
1994 Eunos Roadster S Special Turbo 270bhp!
1991 Mercedes 500SL
1979 Mercedes 280e
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917k
Magny-Cours


Joined: 02 Jun 2003
Posts: 2550
Location: Bromley, kent

2011 Porsche Cayman 987

PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a great thread

It and ones like it are truly fascinating and inspirational reading Thumb
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6992
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm bored so ..

Castor angle ..

This is the shopping trolly effect .. you let go of the steering wheel and it automatically centers the steering wheel to the straight ahead position .

it's not adjustable on all Porsches but is on a Cayenne .

It's the angle of the front to rear of the shock .

Camber .. also called KPI or king Pin Inclination ..

It's the angle of the tread on the road surface and left to right .. more camber = better cornering but on normal road use you want less .. too much and the inner surface only touches the road .. not enough and the outer .

If using the car on a track day then more negative camber is needed for cornering .

Toe or tracking ..

The angle of the wheels in the straight ahead position , pointing left or right will wear a tyre unevenly .. you want it to manufacturer specs but basically pointing straight ahead.

Thrust angle ..

rear wheels being aligned with the fronts or indeed the car .. last thing you want is this to be offset as the car will push say to the left in a straight ahead driving position .

Rear wheel straight to the fronts basically .

Hunter = anyone that can hold a spanner can set it correctly , it shows you what to adjust and you move the bolt till it shows green on the display , then tighten and move to the next .

Its not better than any other alternative but it makes it easy , less complicated systems require a degree of an understanding of what to adjust .

They all do the same thing from string to a hunter .. its the mechanics input that is needed on a lesser system .
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MarkGolf
Hockenheim


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 723
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to it!

Ahhh Iain, I did reply to your last post but it seems that I didn't! I remember asking how do you adjust the castor on these things..

Sooooooooooooooo, I'm now a dad, woohoo, after not doing anything to the cars for something like 5 or 6 weeks, I finally gave myself a few hours to solve an issue that has been spoiling the GTS experience and keeping me up at night!

I'm slightly hungover after a very late night session so hopefully this mass of words makes sense..

I had been getting a 'chassis system faulty' and 'chassis system wanring' message on the dash for a little while, took a number of steps to try and resolve it, pretty blindly really as I was limited on the info I was getting from diagnostics. I had planned to visit Precision Porsche to see Iain and he has shared his wealth of knowledge and interest in the topic but I just had some things I wanted to try out before taking up his time.

I had already pulled off the pressure sensors and solenoids from the rear valve body, changed the reservoir and filled back up with fresh fluid..

Sadly the problem remained..



Pretty vague codes but they did point to the rear valve body, which in essence,is a simple thing, 2 solenoids and 2 pressure sensors, that's it!

So, during my paternity time off, spending some time researching the PDCC system, I found that BMW's have a similar system named Dynamic Drive, a quick google in to this, found a few threads but nothing of much interest until I discovered a guy who had stripped a valve body down, upon seeing the pictures, I noticed that the solenoids were similar, a bit more investigation found that the BMW valve bodies were pennies on ebay, so I bought one to pretty much dismantle and explore..£30 overnight part from Poland.. Compared to Porsche valve bodies starting at £350!

So, BMW unit pulled apart and investigated, this one is slightly more complex than the rear Porsche version, having 2 more solenoids and an extra sensor which may detect temperature...





Solenoid opened up





Having all of these spares, gave me the chance to test what voltage powered the solenoids, I started with 5v and that was enough, so I could now use 5v to test my Porsche ones without fear of blowing them up.

On to the real exercise now, I sucked the CHF11s fluid out of the reservoir and pulled the solenoids off, 5v to each and annoyingly, they both worked, I was hoping to find one was dead. Poked around, pulled a small machined shaft thing out, that was clean and at this point, I thought FFS, what else can I do, so I set about refitting everything, I decided to fit the BMW solenoid in place of one of mine, it looked in better condition.



Fluid refilled, bled to some degree and time to test.

Holyyyyy fcku!! To my utter amazement, I didn't get the warning once I hit 4mph, I didn't get the warning after doing 5 miles! I bloody fixed it!!



I just parked the car up and felt content but slightly scared that as soon as I go out in it again, attack a corner, the warning will return.. I sent an excited message to Iain (Demort) letting him know the great news as he has been with me on this every step, we hoped to find a resolution to this error as it is something he is seeing more and more and no doubt, the older these systems get, the more this will occur.

Well, I have now done approx 40 miles, hard cornering, sport mode and the system is working as it should, I am no longer holding myself up when cornering, wow! I couldn't be happier. Big bill and lots of hassle avoided.

Thumb

Hopefully this will help others, don't be scared of PDCC, it really is simple and if something goes wrong, it can be broken down to a small part being at fault which CAN be replaced.

So, that's THAT episode dealt with. Onto more fun stuff.

Last issue that I will address is a loose sounding knock from up front, louder in comfort mode but barely audible in sport mode, I have new upper and lower wishbones so I am wondering if it is the subframe mounts or ARB mount. Everything seems solid so I'll need to poke around on that, it is pretty minor but something I'll get around to.

So yesterday, I thought I'd fit some new matching rear tyres, the previous owner had some unknown brand tyres on the back which were cracking fast, I noticed some deforming too, I had planned to wait until I had some time to have the car off the road to have the wheels refurbed and then fit the tyres but with the car in use daily on baby duties, that's going to have to wait until we go on holiday or something, so new tyres fitted, the car is now making me very happy Smile



I go to this local place called A&K tyres, they're a great bunch and take all the care in the world, I take all my cars here and so do many mates. They know to lock the suspension and correctly torque the wheels to the manufacturers spec, not just a random it'll do number.

A 2016 stamped tyre with just under 6mm in the middle, never buy cheapos!



Replacing these have totally erradicated some weird hoping feeling I was getting at 33mph too.

Thanks again Iain, you are truely a great asset to us all here and I REALLY need to come and buy you a pint or 10!


Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin worship worship worship worship
_________________
Current fleet
1991 964 Carrera
2005 997 Carrera S
2008 957 Cayenne GTS
2003 Boxster 2.7
1994 Eunos Roadster S Special Turbo 270bhp!
1991 Mercedes 500SL
1979 Mercedes 280e
1995 VW Golf VR6 3.0
 
  
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6992
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thoughts on this ..

It's a rare fault which i feel will become more prevalent , i've seen one so far with another on the go if the customer ever returns ..

The dam fault code basically lists every part of the system as being a possible cause of this .. that really helps .. NOT !

Its a rear axle pressure fault .. it happens at a certain angle on a bend .. for a split second the car sees a pressure fault that's out of its expected range .. it shuts the system down until an ignition on / off and will then recheck .

There is not a fault to find when testing .. it a pressure fault for a split second which makes this fault pretty dam hard to figure out .

I was lucky .. but not for Mark to work with him on this fault .. trust me he did all the work and came to the conclusion .. i just said what i thought which was of no real help i feel !

A solenoid sticking , a microscopic particle of dirt is enough to trigger this fault .

For me i have to replace the RA unit .. this ain't cheap .. the pipes corrode and also need replacing .. circa £1K for parts alone !!!

Mark has found a solution which to be fair i will be trying in the future .. if i can do a cheap fix for a customer due to Marks work then i'm over the moon .. that's what i still work on cars for .. in an attempt to achieve this.

All about the service gents !

Mark ...
Thumb

Top notch work .
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MarkGolf
Hockenheim


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 723
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Iain, you definitely gave me the foundations and scare stories to push me on.

A guy on a US forum has been having a similar problem, he has bought a BMW valve body to hopefully use as backup parts so I'm interested to see how he gets on.

For all I know, it may well have been a bit of dirt, the extra top up of new fluid or it was the BMW part working and holding better when active.

All I wanted was to find a solution which would fix my car and help others save a wedge of cash, when you break the PDCC system down, it is a simple modular system, some parts like the pump and ECU may be expensive (although I have found a source for PDCC pump for £80 instead of £500!) but the other bits are made up of multiple components which I've now found can be replaced and are out there! So spending 4 figures isn't the only answer now. Hopefully anyone else with this trouble will find this post.

Whatever sorted it, it's sorted and driving perfectly now and for a 2008 heavy old tank, it drives like a Porsche should, so I'm over the moon and can let myself carry on with the list thumbsup

Iain kept in touch throughout, as if it was his own car, constantly offering support, experience, tips, what a guy! Thank you! Thumb
_________________
Current fleet
1991 964 Carrera
2005 997 Carrera S
2008 957 Cayenne GTS
2003 Boxster 2.7
1994 Eunos Roadster S Special Turbo 270bhp!
1991 Mercedes 500SL
1979 Mercedes 280e
1995 VW Golf VR6 3.0
 
  
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6992
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2019 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bless you young man .. i just answered what questions i could .

Once again .. congratulations .. your life has just changed .. for the better Smile

Regards to your wife as well .. she is the star here Very Happy
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MarkGolf
Hockenheim


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 723
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently set out to do an oil and filter change on the Cayenne and while at it, fit some new spark plugs as they were last changed around 30k mile ago, they're so cheap and easy, it's a no brainer to just do these with every service as I believe they do lose their efficiency with use.



Well, this was a job that wasn't as clear cut as just changing the plugs..

I bought Bosch FGR5NQE04, same as Porsche branded items, just £31 for the set of 8 instead of £75.

Someone had the same fitted already..

Old and new;


Old plugs, notice that 1 is different! (FFS!!)


The problem I came across when pulling the last plug out was, when I pulled the coilpack out, it was soaked in oil! PANIC!!!
I put the socket to remove the plug and as I pushed that in, oil spurted out!!
I was about to lose my cool but once my brain kicked in, I thought the problem has to just be a bad seal on the valve cover, I pulled the plug and yup, that was covered but the tip was dry and matched the others so the engine is OK, phew!
A look down the tube and the problem was apparent, a seal was not doing it's job as a moron had clearly fitted it. I believe an OPC to be behind this.



Great, another job and hours I don't have too much of right now to be spent sorting this out.

So, I put the new plugs in, buttoned it all back up and awaited my new parts to arrive. New valve cover seal, new plug tube seals and new valve cover bolts.

New bits arrived courtesy of Deroure.com



Strip down


Valve cover off!


I was pretty happy to do this as I always like to get a look inside my engines, especially when the car has done so many miles (96k). Everything looked in good order, nothing out of the ordinary, chain was solid and tensioner pad looked in good order.

Are these the upgraded variocam bolts?


Not sure if this is a date but if so, it's newer than the car..


The offending seal!! Clearly had been fitted this way as it was trapped and not in the recess.


New valve cover bolts


Everything got a clean and then went back together!

Phew!


Oil change time, it is sooooooo good that I can just raise the car up to do this, no messing about with jacks and ramps!

Oil of choice, 5w/40 Mobil 1 Super 3000 X1. Meets specs and used it on the Boxster and found no issues.



The oil in the car has been in there for approx 6500k miles, it came out black and really watery. I had been in touch with the specialist who did the last service and they informed me that they use 5w/40 Petronas.

Made a mess as always, I really need to upgrade my oil catcher.


Let this drain for 30 mins while getting the filter off and then accidentally finding the cause of a knock that has been driving me insane!!!

When going over bumps, I had a knock which sounded like a worn balljoint, but I had change them all, inspected everything and nothing else appears to be worn, I was getting to the point of setting out to change engine mounts and front shocks...

Well, while poking around, I saw this clamp and wondered how the hell someone did it up as the head was touching the subframe, a light touch and it moved! It was completely loose!! I thought that there was no way this little thing could be causing the knocking I was getting, it is a really heavy metal on metal knock, no way but maybe??! hopefully, fingers crossed, maybe it is this!



Where it should be


Well, I re-positioned and tightened the clamp, fitted the new oil filter and filled the engine with oil.

Fired it up, all sounding perfect, I let it run while I tidied my tools away. I then cautiously went out for a spin and to my amazement, the bumps which would always produce a knock, no longer did!!! I couldn't have felt happier!!

So, no more oil leak, fresh oil, plugs and now, no more knocking! This Cayenne is really feeling perfect now, really happy with it.

Swapped out the hazard switch, mine looked tired, so found a fresh one.



Cleaned the filters on the headlights, one was completely blocked and I believe to be the reason the headlight was misting uo


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Current fleet
1991 964 Carrera
2005 997 Carrera S
2008 957 Cayenne GTS
2003 Boxster 2.7
1994 Eunos Roadster S Special Turbo 270bhp!
1991 Mercedes 500SL
1979 Mercedes 280e
1995 VW Golf VR6 3.0
 
  
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