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Cheap ebay manifolds + exhaust = TICKING

I'd like to but my options are limited. It's only happening under load. How do you diagnose exhaust leaks when the car is moving?
 
Get some bathroom sealant or cheap exhaust putty and smear it round your cat/manifold joint so its sealed. Take the car for a blast and see if the tickings gone or theres a blow hole in the sealant. If still ticking and no blow hole do the same on the other joint and check for the same, etc.
 
you do like you would in any diagnosis, start at the begining..

exhausts are not particularly tricky other than that they get very hot and the heat makes things like nuts and bolts more difficult to undo..

First step is to take the whole lot off and inspect it.

Get both the manifolds off, use new gaskets and some sealing compound, make sure all the manilfold nuts are tightened properly (in fact make sure they are actually all there, they break easily and you may find the people that fitted them have 'bodged' this in some way...)

Once you have ensured the manifolds are correctly fitted and sealing you can move on to the joint between the manifold and the Cats, this is a simple 3 bolt joint, so clean both surfaces to get rid of any rust and exhaust carbon, then reassemble with exhaust gasket and use new stainless bolts with brass nuts to the correct torque.

Once they are definitely sealed move on to the back boxes.
Check the hangers to make sure they are all corrosion free (they rust quite spectacularly) and make sure they are correctly and securely attached to the block, then its just a case of ensuring the slip joints are clean and sealed with exhaust paste, and that they are tightened up correctly. The 2 flexis are prone to pinholing so its worth checking those too and if holed either get welded/repaired or cut out and replaced.

The last point is then the outlet trim from the back box to the tailpipe, again a simple joint that needs to be cleaned and sealed with paste, then tightened up correctly.

:thumb:
 
Yeah do all that and hope your ticking is gone. Should only take you a day.

How does he check its sealed correctly if he can't find if its sealed correctly now?
 
FYI @Hertzdriver everything was off and replaced with new parts less than 2 months ago.
I shall rip the bumper cover off this or next weekend and do some investigation.
 
Alex said:
Yeah do all that and hope your ticking is gone. Should only take you a day.

How does he check its sealed correctly if he can't find if its sealed correctly now?
Click to expand...

IMO its much easier to start from the beginning and eliminate each element than it is to chase around covering things in bathroom sealant and hoping you find the cause.
A ticking could be lots of things; a leaky gasket, a blow hole, a bolt not tightened, a slip joint loose. I'm not disputing your advise, just offering an alternative way to sort the issue :thumb:
 
I'd diagnose that fault within an hour without having to remove anything, although personally, the installer should be doing that.
 
If you can get underneath with the engine running, with a three foot length of pipe, stick one end in your ear and go all around the manifold / joints with the other end you fill find leaks that way. Super quick and easy. They fix the leaks.

MC
 
Alex said:
I'd diagnose that fault within an hour without having to remove anything, although personally, the installer should be doing that.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, but if it is the manifold gasket it all has to come off anyway to get to it... My money is on the manifolds not sealing and/or missing some studs...
 
Only manifold has to come off if its leaking, rest can stay in place.
 
cvega.... I have no idea of the health and safety implications re rules and regulations...... Perhaps a rolling road test would allow you/ someone to closer identify the approximate area if not the actual source of the ticking...??

Just thinking in type. :?:
 
Have you tried setting off with your handbrake on and wheels chocked. Hold it on the clutch like that for a second or so and you can replicate it under load.
 
infrasilver... been there done that though to free of a clutch where the driven plate had bonded to the flywheel/pressure plate by running the car in gear and then braking sharply....

The bonding caused by lengthy period of lay-up.

Though apparently the ticking only appears under load..?

BTW my axle stands were pretty sturdy and made sure nothing was in front of the car while carrying out the "repair."
 
Reminds me of a farmer friend hanging his caterham by the roll cage off his telehandler using ratchet straps to diagnose a transmission noise. It had a Blackbird engine and running at full chat dangling in the air it proved to be the nova transfer box.
 
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