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PSE slow to respond

Robertb

Yas Marina
Joined
1 Sep 2003
Messages
8,406
I noticed the other night that the PSE has become a bit slow to shut up on one side.

I assume either a problem with the vacuum pipe or the valve on the silencer.

Is either bit home-servicable, or is it another one for the list for the annual service?
 
If the actuators are actually moving, then I doubt there is a vacuum leak as they wouldn`t work at all if there was, I would give the moving parts a douse in WD40 to start off with and then keep operating them to work the oil in, don`t forget both ends of the flap hinge pins.
 
One of mine was seized when I first got it. You can just about reach up and touch the actuators to see if they are moveable.... try the good side first to get a point of reference and see how much effort it takes to operate one, it's not much effort.

I got mine working by heat shrinking several WD40 straws together to make them long enough to reach, then a sparing application of gt85 where they actuate.

Usual rules around spraying anything near hot exhausts apply :thumb:
 
Thanks guys, I'll have a go at it as you suggest :thumb:
 
To give a conclusion to this, I got under the car and tried wiggling the actuators about. The fault (perhaps unsurprisingly) was that the O/S actuator would not move.

The reason is that the mounting bolts on the actuator had rusted through, so it was rattling about in the bracket. Unless the rod/actuator is correctly aligned, it won't move. Hence sometimes, if it happened to be in the right place, it would work.

Now I just need to find a way of bodging a repair to hold it in place until I work out how on earth to get the actuator out of the bracket and replace it.
 
And finally...

Fixed this weekend with a new vacuum actuator.

I initially ordered an OE 997 actuator as it was half the price of the 996 one (but looked identical) but the delivery date was uncertain, so I ran with the Designtek one from Design911 for only £39. This is fine, but comes with no fasteners nor a ball joint. It also turned out that the rod is about 5mm shorter than the OE one, to the extent it won't be fully 'open' without modifications.

When we removed the old actuator the ball joint crumbled as it was corroded, and goodness knows where you'd get one of those separately. Luckily, a genius friend managed to weld up what remained of the ball joint to some nuts to not only repair it but also extend it sufficiently that it fitted.

Anyway, happy days, now all working perfectly :D
 

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