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Track Mods

Do the GT3 cooling ducts fit a turbo, or do they have cooling ducts already?
If so source them from OPC?

Where is the best place to source Pagid RS42 for a Turbo too?
I'm due a BF fluid change at one point, and have some Motul kicking about and will add new lines too. I hope to track it at Snet once I'm happy the car is ready.
 
I thought about the cooling ducts, but by the time I come in and jump out, my discs have been no hotter than about 250-260c, so they're not getting ridiculously hot. (I've seen BMWs coming in with front discs at 350-400c).

This might change if I run stickier rubber on hotter days I suppose. As long as you have freshish pads and not-knackered old skinny discs, the heat is manageable.

If however you have old discs, old pads and old fluid, your day is going to be cut short.
 
I had a day's tuition in a 997.1 C2S with the late (great) Sean Edwards at Bedford. Suffice to say we drove the car hard and fast all day - in 15-20 minute stints - and never had a single issue with brakes (standard) and tyres (much derided Pirellis). And no one overtook Sean :)
It's technique as much as hardware.
Tuition, tuition, tuition ;)
 
Tuition certainly helps, as well as plenty of seat time; if you haven't been to the track for a while, it can take a good few laps to recalibrate your head. Everyone rushes out on the first day of the season, and expects to be lapping at the same rate as the end of last year, but it doesn't work that way.

Anyway, as to the hardware, I'd also add that a decent seat really helps, and I much prefer my car with the stiffer RSS engine mounts, but if you only do three things to the car, then focus on the brakes, tyres and alignment.
 
having just tracked my c2s for the first time a few weeks ago (Im no stranger to track days though) here are my thoughts:

swap your brake fluid, even for peace of mind. drop tyre pressures to allow for the higher temps.

thats it. go out and have fun. Do short sessions to keep the car temps under control and dont be a late braking hero. Our sessions are 15mins, I usually do 10mins.

I found it great to get to know the car more and how it handled in corners in a way I could never do on the road. I dont intend to track it often (unlike my previous car which was a pure track car) but its definitely brilliant to get to push it on a bit.
 
Couldn't agree more; I have the other car for more regular track work, but it's great to learn how best to drive the 997 on the track.
 
MaxA said:
Couldn't agree more; I have the other car for more regular track work, but it's great to learn how best to drive the 997 on the track.

it opened my eyes. I never felt fully confident in the handling on the road until I had it on track and could explore the limits more. A big drift in a hairpin told me Id found those limits :D

The car has a TON of mechanical grip but the initial movements of the engine etc dont immediately let you know its there so I was being overcautious on the road when I just needed to push through a little.

One other thing. I marked my strut top bolts and then loosened them to get some more neg camber in the front. Worth a little play as its pretty easy to do and lots of people say more neg camber up front is a good thing.
 
paul_mck said:
MaxA said:
Couldn't agree more; I have the other car for more regular track work, but it's great to learn how best to drive the 997 on the track.

it opened my eyes. I never felt fully confident in the handling on the road until I had it on track and could explore the limits more. A big drift in a hairpin told me Id found those limits :D

The car has a TON of mechanical grip but the initial movements of the engine etc dont immediately let you know its there so I was being overcautious on the road when I just needed to push through a little.

One other thing. I marked my strut top bolts and then loosened them to get some more neg camber in the front. Worth a little play as its pretty easy to do and lots of people say more neg camber up front is a good thing.

The 997 goes around a track very well, and I agree on the camber, I've got mine aligned to about -1.5 degrees up front (the other car has adjustable camber so I can add in about -3 degrees at the track).

The other thing I played with was the PASM; in soft (normal) mode you can corner hard enough to lift an inside rear, but in hard (track), the body rolls a lot less and the body control is a lot more composed.
 
I dont have PASM on mine, MO30 with H&R springs and LSD

I believe its on the hard side but not as hard as hard pasm
 

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