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2001 C4 project car

I didn't pack the bearing with anything, there is engine oil going all around the area so it will be splash fed from there. If I had packed it with grease it would have all washed out pretty quickly.

The wings aren't hard to get off. There are a few things that need to be removed inside the wings to get to the bolts on the inside. There are two or three on the rear edge. It is all covered nicely in the workshop manual. If you don't have a copy then PM me and I can sort you out.

MC
 
Ok. I just hear so much about the bearings that I don't know what to believe. I'll get a look at mine soon enough.

Cheers for the tip on the wings. Think I'll pull bumpers and wings off outside before I roll it into the garage. That way I'll be able to stick them up in the rafters out of the way.
 
From what I have read on the bearings, my thoughts are as follows. This is in no way meant to be authoritative, it is just a summary of the opinions I have formed.

Whatever bearing is fitted, if you get a chance, remove the cover and check the bearing. If all appears to be OK then remove the outer seal from the bearing and fit the cover with a new seal and o-ring on the cover.

If the bearing is showing any signs of wear then replace it with a like-for-like replacement as far as possible, again without the outer seal fitted. I wouldn't go for any of the other aftermarket options personally. I would not change a bearing which appears to be fine.

MC
 
The o-rings on the tensioners have been replaced by new viton o-rings.



Slight issue with trial fitting the cam covers. The fingers rise up for the oil baths for the cam lobes are too large and don't fit inside the camshaft cover so will need revising.







In the top photo you can see where they are catching on the cover, compare them to the originals at the bottom.
There is plenty of material on there as the inside profile is the same as the original so I'll get them modified until they fit.

MC
 
NedHan79 said:
So did you pack the bearing with grease or what is the idea there?
Click to expand...

Roller bearings (frictionless) need very minimal lubrication to enable them to function correctly as the parts roll against each other instead of rubbing. Not only is there plenty of oil mist and spray around this area when the engine is running (especially from the chains and sprockets), but also when the engine is off and the oil back in the sump, the IMS bearing is actually submerged under the oil level.
Once the engine is started and oil pumped around, there will still be an amount of oil trapped in the outer bearing race, held there by the centrifugal force of the shaft spinning. IMHO this oil alone would be plenty enough to keep the bearing adequately lubricated whilst running.
 
Later on in the project the car will need changes to the gearbox to bring the top speed right down and match the gear spacing to the power/torque curve of the engine. To do this I have been on the lookout for a secondhand gearbox which has issues such as second gear popout or whining. No point in taking a perfectly good gearbox and tearing it apart. Up until now I had found a couple of C4 gearboxes but ideally I wanted a C2 gearbox. Yesterday I picked one up which allegedly has problems with second gear synchros. It looks like I might be going in to the gearbox rebuilding business. I need a larger press :eek:



MC
 
At least you have plenty of refreshment to keep you lubricated :lol:

4 gearboxes?? :?
 
Cheers for the bearing info guys :thumb:

Mc. Would a lower diff ratio not be an option? I'd like one for mine as I find the gearing very tall. Think the car would go well with lower ratios across the range. I need to look into a new lsd as mines had it so I'll need to do my homework
 
NedHan79 said:
Cheers for the bearing info guys :thumb:

Mc. Would a lower diff ratio not be an option? I'd like one for mine as I find the gearing very tall. Think the car would go well with lower ratios across the range. I need to look into a new lsd as mines had it so I'll need to do my homework
Click to expand...

We have looked at this option. Firstly there aren't many people who do a CWP set for the G96.00 gearboxes, and the ones that are available don't give the ratios that are needed. If they did, this would make first gear really short and wouldn't fix the issue with the spacing of the gears. The requirement is to have it set up for around 140-150mph in top gear at 8000rpm. With the standard gearing you get this on 295/30 R18 tyres.

1st Gear = 72.78 km/h - 45.12 mph
2nd Gear = 126.37 km/h - 78.35 mph
3rd Gear = 182.9 km/h - 113.4 mph
4th Gear = 227.88 km/h - 141.28 mph
5th Gear = 272.56 km/h - 168.99 mph
6th Gear = 330.96 km/h - 205.2 mph

Albins do final drives in 3.00, 3.77 and 4.00. The 4.00 gets you to this.

1st Gear = 62.59 km/h - 38.8 mph
2nd Gear = 108.68 km/h - 67.38 mph
3rd Gear = 157.29 km/h - 97.52 mph
4th Gear = 195.97 km/h - 121.5 mph
5th Gear = 234.4 km/h - 145.33 mph
6th Gear = 284.63 km/h - 176.47 mph

So a step in the right direction, but not really right. I have also heard of issues with running certain LSDs with the Albins CWP set. So unless anybody knows of any better options, it is looking like custom stuff which would probably mean keeping 1st and 2nd the same, then having replacements for 3-6.

MC
 
I have never looked into it and not sure I'd bother with the cost but I will look into an lsd but it's way down the list. I'm assuming a new bespoke gear set would be pretty pricey and way outa my league.
What's the standard rpm limit? 7k? I hit it but don't be looking at it when i do
 
I have done a bit of work on the dashboard software. Using the current engine speed and vehicle speed it calculates the gear from a set of ratio limits in the software. The gear value is then used for a lookup table for the engine speed to use for the shift light. It switches between two sets of tables based on oil temperature, so you can have a lower shift light value set until the engine warms up.

I haven't sorted out where to fit the shift light at the moment, currently it just goes to a wire which could come out of the back of the cluster.



MC
 
skinny_monkey said:
What does that give you over just using rpm - do you want different shift lights per gear?
Click to expand...

Yes, If you want to change at 8k you need the shift light to come on 1 second or so before you hit 8k. This will be much lower in 1st than in 2nd or 3rd. If you could change gear instantly it wouldn't be an issue.

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
skinny_monkey said:
What does that give you over just using rpm - do you want different shift lights per gear?
Click to expand...

Yes, If you want to change at 8k you need the shift light to come on 1 second or so before you hit 8k. This will be much lower in 1st than in 2nd or 3rd. If you could change gear instantly it wouldn't be an issue.

MC
Click to expand...

I suppose that is [one of] the difference between me and you. I work on and hone my gear-changing skills, you devise a program and engineer it to give the required solution.

(Top work, BTW) :thumbs:
 
MisterCorn said:
skinny_monkey said:
What does that give you over just using rpm - do you want different shift lights per gear?
Click to expand...

Yes, If you want to change at 8k you need the shift light to come on 1 second or so before you hit 8k. This will be much lower in 1st than in 2nd or 3rd. If you could change gear instantly it wouldn't be an issue.

MC
Click to expand...

Hadn't thought about the delay time before. It's not so much changing gear necessarily worth the timing as initiating the change tho right, or have i misunderstood?
The dash set up will have several sequential lights for shift, like 7,7.5, 8k rpm?
 
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