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New Cayenne owner

On any porsche car then if you dont have the key in the ignition when disconnecting or reconnecting an airbag system then it wont trigger a fault code and shut it down untill the code is cleared with a tester .

If unsure you can undo the earth lead in front of the seat .

you can remove the seat but i would disconnect the battery first unless you have a tester that can clear codes if needed .

to just tilt the seat to gain battery access and you dont need to disconnect the battery ... removeing and its best to .

re panel .. you will see when you look :)
 
I might just stick it into the garage to get this done - sounds like a PITA.

On another note I do have a slight fault - a vibration through the steering wheel when braking from 70 down to about 50, coming from the left side front wheel to the best of my guessing. Not as bad below 50mph and unnoticeable driving around town circa 30mph. Going to get the front wheel balancing checked at the weekend in case it's that but the garage did say that when I changed the pads next on the front the car will require discs too. The discs have a very deep lip on them. When you are driving around 70 there is a very slight vibration through the steering wheel but nothing too bad.
 
So, another month rolls by and I've done nowt really! Not installed the seats, not tried to fix the lights, just put petrol in it. Lots and lots of petrol! I did one small upgrade - fitted a small cubbyhole thingy the rear which I bought from Status Porsche. Very easy to fit and much more practical and visually attractive than the grey blanking panel that was fitted. I'm off next week so will probably try and replace the seats myself and also might pop the original 19" alloys back on and take the winter set off. It'll be good to see it on the nicer alloys instead of those horrible Audi ones. I need to find a replacement fascia for the rear ashtray section but its proving elusive to find a grey one. Might have to try the dealer.
 

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So, another month and still not attended to any issues! Been busy with other stuff. I did however buy a second hand set of pedals from an S to upgrade my cheap looking plain rubber ones. 2 minute fit and worth the effort I feel - lifts the cabin a touch!

Car is going into the garage next week for a pre-MOT check and for the summer alloys and tyres to be put back on. We will see if the brake discs and pads need doing prior to the MOT as they were highlighted by the garage at the last service 3k miles ago but if they do I have already purchased all the parts for it over the last few months. I'm not sure if the warnings I have for the cornering lights not working will be an MOT fail in these stricter times? Oh well, we'll find out soon I guess.....
 

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Corner lights should not fail an mot ... its usually just a bulb though .. one side failing will stop the other side from working .

Brakes .. wait till you have a warning light on .. when we service these cars we look at 2 years so will flag brakes if we don't think they will last that long ..

nothing wrong with waiting till the warning light comes on then changing if its a year or so after a service ... warning light and you have approx 3k miles till its down to metal with the average user.

Brakes are also very subjective to how you drive the car so a mechanic can only ever guess at time remaining .
 
That's good to know about the lights although I do need to get it into the garage to diagnose the fault as the beeping it does when you turn the lights on is doing my head in. I can't believe I have left it so long to be honest but because it is not in my category of 'dangerous faults' I've tried to ignore it!

I don't have a warning light on for the brake pads yet but I do have an issue where I think a disc is warped so the garage is going to look at that too on Tuesday. I am getting severe judder through the steering wheel when braking from 70mph down to about 50mph then it isn't so pronounced. It also feels like a very strange sensation when you brake at lower speeds, particularly when you are just about to stop - very hard to explain without experiencing it. I don't get wheel wobble or vibration when driving so don't think it's a wheel balance issue.
 
So, wheel vibration at speed is due to a shot balljoint on the front N/S lower suspension arm. Utterly shagged in the garages words! Strange as usually with wishbones/arms failing you get noises/squeaks/crashing through the suspension - none of which I have.

All discs and pads are shot too. Rear pads separating from the backing, etc. Still no warning lights on............

Apart from that all was fine!!!
 
Ohh I noticed a small vibration, may well be the wheel balancing but I do get a knock over some bumps so I was just going to swap the wishbones for new ones. Looks an easy job, just annoying that it will require an alignment after but will give some peace of mind knowing that all of the bushes are new. I may do the drop links too as they're pretty cheap.

The only issue is that I get carried away and will want to change the rears too

:frustrated:

eBay has plenty of great deals on these parts!
 
I am going to change both of my fronts as he said the other side is worn too and will need changing soon. Going to get maximum efficiency from the wheel alignment and save doing it twice!

I purchased TRW arms from www.carparts4less as I wanted decent ones. Looking on the Design911 website this seems to be what they fit and the owner of the garage I use said his Boxster OEM suspension was all TRW so it must be decent equipment (I've owned lots of Alfas and always used TRW on those). Got the pair including next day delivery for £246. Best the garage could do for TRW was £350. I'll let them fit them as I don't have the tools, time or inclination. If you are buying any bits soon use carparts4less just now and they have 18% off if you use code EGG80. It's an Easter weekend code but still worked today!

Arms getting done tomorrow then back in the garage next week to get all the discs and pads done. I guess at least it doesn't need anything else for it's MOT :roll:
 
Ill just point out .. if you have air suspension then knocking is often from that .

A worn ball joint is pretty rare on these cars .. i would guess speed bumps have hastened its demise .

At the end of the day these cars are not getting any younger but i still consider the suspension to be one of the better designs .. Porsche sports cars and noises are pretty common even at low milage ..

Sigh .. im showing i prefer these cars again aint i lol .

BTW .. the struts don't like impact damage .. they bend at the base .. you'll only see it on a geo check though .
 
My car doesn't have air, just steel springs.

Unfortunately I have to drive over about 9 speed bumps to get out of the estate where I live then another 5 or 6 on the road outside the train station. I then have to do it all again on the way home. It must take some toll on the car. I thought they'd be easier in a higher 4 x 4 SUV than my last car (a lowered Alfa 159 saloon) but I guess the damage is the same no matter what you drive. At least I don't have to slow down to an almost standstill in the Cayenne to clear them!

Car is in the garage now having the new arms fitted........
 
And car now back. Wallet is £424 lighter after having both front arms fitted and also for a pre-mot check and front wheel alignment done. Arms were £242 on top of that cost so it's beans on toast for next month.

Brakes all round to do now too before the MOT........
 
Yup .. i'm afraid speed bumps are not good for any car of any make .

Steel springs are pretty bullet proof though .. i've only once seen a coil spring snapped on the rear of a cayenne .. and thats in 15 years so far !

brakes as i've mentioned .. light on first .. get the most out of them as they are not cheap .. ouch :(
 
So, better mpg today. Went up north and done a 320 mile round trip. Brimmed the tank with super and amazingly still have over a quarter of a tank left (Mark did predict this to be fair). My 'range' is telling me I still have 200 miles left in the tank but it likes to lie to me. I guarantee that after three 4 mile runs to the train station this week the light will be on!!! Computer is saying 26.7mpg for today.
 
So, getting ready to do my brakes soon and took a look at front and rear to get my head round it, see if it was any different from other cars I've worked on in the past. I was looking at where the brake pad wear sensors connect to on the car and noticed that both the fronts on mine do not seem to be connected. The connector that comes from the brake sensor is tie wrapped to the leg of the suspension but it appears that the connectors from the old sensors are still plugged in and the wires cut. See pic

I guess my question is would I not be getting a fault on the dash if the sensors weren't connected? Is there a reason why they wouldn't have plugged them in when the pads were changed - some kind of fault? The chap I bought it off told me he had the pads replaced so they must have been done in under the last 2 years given how long he owned the car for.
 

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