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Rust treatment/prevention

I believe rather than being a chemical rust treatment, POR 15 works by sealing the rust from the air, preventing further degradation. Therefore it should be fine over the primer as long as it adheres. Its coverage and propensity to avoid tiny air pockets is better than normal paint. The issue, if there is one, will be any air pockets or moisture trapped between the primer that you have already applied and the surface.
When you buy a POR 15 'kit" you get rust converter and surface cleaner included. The trick with POR 15 is to get total coverage and a good 'seal". In my experience once cured it's often tougher than the metal it's painted on!
 
Top tip for POR15 - wear gloves. It has the same stuff in it as superglue and take a long time to come off!!

Also get all your painting completed as quickly as possible as once POR opened the tin has a tendancy to go off. Thats why they sell it in little pots!

Ian
 
Por15 cures with moisture, thats the reaction it has, doesn't evaporate a solvent like paint does. Try using it on a damp day vs a dry day!

So POR15 "sucks" moisture out of the metal for its reaction. This halts further corrosion.

I applied phosphoric acid to convert rust, then washed off, dried and then applied POR15. Hard as rock, I'd say better to have nothing between the two.

If your rust converter primer is a "system" best to use thier top cpat.
 
I've been very happy with the Bilt Hamber products and for my 944 restoration job I've just purchased some of their coatings for chassis restoration, do a search on here and you will find some 993 restoration examples using these products -

Deox Gel - Non-toxic rust removal gel
Electrox - zinc based primer
Dynax Seam - Fast drying, brushable, flexible anti-corrosion seam sealer
Dynax S50 - Extreme duty anti-corrosion wax for cavities, voids and long term protection

I plan on putting either some Wurth Stone Guard or 3M Schultz on top of the Electrox and the the Dynax S50 over the top of that.
 
Wh1t3Kn1ght said:
I've been very happy with the Bilt Hamber products and for my 944 restoration job I've just purchased some of their coatings for chassis restoration, do a search on here and you will find some 993 restoration examples using these products -

Deox Gel - Non-toxic rust removal gel
Electrox - zinc based primer
Dynax Seam - Fast drying, brushable, flexible anti-corrosion seam sealer
Dynax S50 - duty anti-corrosion wax for cavities, voids and long term protection

I plan on putting either some Wurth Stone Guard or 3M Schultz on top of the Electrox and the the Dynax S50 over the top of that.

+1 for Bilt Hamber. The Deoc C granules that you dissolve in water to make a rust eating bath are brilliant. I have used it to remove rust from inside old car fuel tanks, motorbike exhausts, nuts, bolts, brackets clips - you name it. Detox gel with cling film over it to stop it from drying out on the front wheel arch lips - left for 24 hours, repeated where necessary, washed off and then coat in the zinc spray last summer - has lasted all winter with not a sign of rust. I must finish off with body matching top coat!

All of the underside of my car washed and coated with the Dynax last summer too as it had worked well for me on classic cars in the past
 
Following with interest. I'm going to strip the under seal off and give it whatever love it needs. Obviously I want to repair any nasty bits however possible but I also want to paint the chassis to a nice standard. Not sure if I'd go for a sealer again as the car won't be out much in the winter. I'm obviously after all advice possible as well
 
Place near to me does enormous amounts of rust-treatment and sealing (they import Jap cars......). They strongly recommend DiNitrol 4941 as a sealant (and are not fans of WaxOyl, which they say does not last long enough).
 
Bilt Hamber user here as well.

I used Deox C gel on the wheel arches and underside of a project car after removing the old stone chip coating and rust using a twist knot wire brush on a grinder (drill wire brushes aren't aggressive enough and polycarb wheels don't last long enough).

Once I rinsed the Deox off I coated with Hydrate 80 which acts as a primer. belt and braces I then applied Jotum 80 which is a 2 part epoxy used for marine applications which can be used as a top coat or a primer. Braces on top of my braces I then sprayed U-pol gravitex over this. Using a Schutz gun this gave me an OE look stone chip finish. For any seams I used Grey stripe brush on sealer and harder to reach areas I used Tiger Seal. This was done before the gravitex was applied.

I often use POR15 for sub frames, brackets, suspension arms and also for a lot of motorcycle parts. I tend to use the 3 part pack with the degreaser/prep. It's a great product.
 
I heard Bilt hamber deox active ingredient is citric acid (hence apparently safe to eat....)

You can make some up mixing citric acid with wallpaper paste ;)

Have a read: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/alternative-to-deox-gel.65028/

I used phosphoric acid gel.

Coca Cola has phosphoric acid in it, the reason for this is to make you feel slightly thirsty after drinking some, and hence you buy more.

Check the data sheets of expensive treatments!
 

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