My 957 Cayenne GTS Progress thread

I think our pads are the same but the discs on the GTS are larger, I think the discs on the GTS were done 35k ago but oddly, they barely show any wear, so I'm not changing those.

Really enjoying it thanks, huge amount of car (can I keep calling it a car?!) for the money. I'd love to try a Turbo out as this feels quick once its on the move and in manual mode.

I'm looking forward to fitting the new arm bush, mainly want to see if the current one is worn and if any difference is noticed. I'm not holding my breath but it was just one of those, why not jobs.

I guess with the addition of turbos, you've got them to help shift the weight when pulling away and if you're not on the pedal, they won't be sucking on more fuel. My MX5 got better MPG after fitting a turbo for town driving, I think that is because I don't have to rev the tits off it to get it to keep up with traffic now.

Update your thread!



Cheers Iain!!

I am looking to replace the front wishbones, I do get a knock from drivers front so I'm just going to assume a bush/balljoint is dead, if that doesn't sort it, I'll replace the uppers too..

I bought a dodgy PIWIS but annoyingly, the durametric software which is free to use and works with my cable doesn't support a 2008 Cayenne!! FFS! Need to get something that will read the codes so may just have to buy the proper kit.

The previous owner gave me a compressor rebuild kit with the car, just some small seals and screws, thankfully I dont need to use it. Can hear it buzz on the off moments for a few seconds and the car holds its height and moves between the different levels within a few seconds so all is well with the air. :thumb:


So next on the list;

Torque Arm bush.
Remove exhaust so I can free up the exhaust flaps and clean/rust proof areas of the car I couldn't get to.
Brake pads
New front wishbones

I think the pads are different between the 330mm and the 350mm discs. When you go on most parts websites it will throw up pads for both types but then if you read the fitment guide it separates it into black, silver and red caliper types. Black is for the basic 330mm caliper type fitted as standard to the 3.2 then silver and red seem to be for the S and Turbo models with the bigger 350mm discs. Ironically the pads for the black calipers are more expensive than for the red or silver ones. I'm guessing they are less popular as most Cayennes had the bigger engines fitted (I could well be wrong)?

By the way 35k out of a set of discs is pretty awesome for a car so heavy.

Oh blimey, I best check my pads, I just ordered whatever Euro Car Parts listed.

Yeah, I did ask the guy I got the car from but he said he hasn't touched the brakes, I know that Neil, the owner before him did, at approx 65k, so thats the last I know..

Your pads are probably ok. Looking at the photos, although they look very similar, my ones have a different part number to yours. I think the ones for red and silver are slightly longer.

Yeah, I saw that, I'm sure they fine, won't take much to work out if they're right/wrong!

Having a bit more trouble with the wishbone, seems GTS/Turbos have a different part number but can't find out why..

Just a lunchtime quickie,

Ramair panel filters. I always like a panel filter upgrade on my cars, they all have an aftermarket panel. I can't say I notice a difference in performance but I have always done this for the sake of a better induction noise, on a V8, it had to be done. Cone filters would offer the best for noise but I prefer to stick with an air box, the improvement to induction is slight, but enough to warrant the effort.

Just fitted a pair to the GTS, biggest panels I've ever seen, sadly, I haven't driven it yet but I will update shortly.

Fitting was easy enough. 20 min job while talking to someone. Getting the air box lids back on is the most tricky bit but I learnt that from when I inspected the filters a few weeks back.






I had access to the torque arm, as able to twist it quite a bit with just my hand and little effort, that's getting changed later tonight! :thumb:

A good read as always Mark :thumb: I have also been looking at these for the last year however my head over my heart keeps persuading me no due to guzzling copies amounts 4* :dont know:

Cheers Gaz!

Just get one, its good on a run, its just the stop start when you can see the needle move..

Aye, they do like a drink and it's only a 3.2 I have! I have to drive from Larbert to Nairn next week, so around 300/320 mile round trip. I'll be interested to see what the mpg is like. My weekly journeys consist of short trips doing the school run, nursery run, station commute, etc with some slightly bigger runs at the weekend and I'm seeing about 330 miles from a tank which costs roughly £120 to fill. I am hoping there might be some fuel left after the Nairn trip!!!

I think you'll be surprised on your run! Those VR6 engines are pretty good on a motorway run! I wanted a 3.2 or 3.6 just because I'm so familiar and comfortable with the engine itself, could rebuild one in my sleep. :grin: I bet you get have over a qtr left.


Did a few bits last night, cleaned and shaved the alcantara door pulls for the front doors as they were gummed up.

Fitted the Powerflex arm bush, passenger side light up sill plate, detailed the leather with some touch ups to wear and a condition.

So, the arm bush, I was sceptical but after removing the arm, the bushing in the arm was soft, I could twist the centre, there was no wear to see but it was definitely soft.



Got it out!





In


I was sceptical of this but jesus, it definitely, without a doubt, has made a difference! The best way to describe what this has done is to say, it's like Sport mode is enabled, when it isn't!
From the moment I first pulled away, I could tell the difference, the car just pulled off, prior to the bush, I guess there was what felt like lag. Now, after driving it last night and again this morning, it's a night and day difference to the throttle. I am really really happy with this, the best thing I've done in a while. It took just over 1 hour to fit (would be far less if you had a press!), really really surprised me.

My thoughts on the air filters I had fitted earlier, definitely some extra induction noise lower down, windows down and you can hear the V8 more so. It seems like the car feels lighter, perhaps freer revving, could be a placebo but for the money, worth it.

That arm bushing though, very very happy with that, I am really surprised at the difference it has made, so much so, I didn't use sport mode last night or this morning, which I normally do to sharpen the throttle response.

The passenger side illuminated sill had always bugged me, it looks like dirt had got inside, so I thought I'd get inside and have a look.



Sill apart


Ahh, not dirt, the EL part has started to break down..


I've managed to find something which I can replace this with, so fingers crossed it is the same size and works, to be continued!

Next jobs to be done on Saturday, removing the exhaust to free up exhaust flaps, clean the chassis above it and give the car a wash.

:bye:

That's interesting the bush has made a difference to the take off. I guess if there was a lot of movement in it previously you'd be losing power through it on the pick up? I fitted a Poweflex bush to the engine arm on one of my old Alfa 166s with the 3.0 V6 Busso engine and can't say I noticed the difference apart the lack of it clunking!!!

I think my bush was just tired, so any replacement would probably get the same result, although I'm sure the powerflex is probably tougher than a standard replacement.

The centre of the standard bushing was slightly over to one side so it was past it's best. I assume torque was being lost through engine movement, now it is not which relates to the better response.

you often get a knocking noise when this part fails ..

I'm afraid i replace them but cant say what the benefits are as i'm not a driver as such .

i would assume it makes a difference though as you have pointed out .. there is a lot of sideways movement of the engine which this item is there to stop .

Just about to do a post on PDCC faults on these .. please read .

Great post on the PDCC! I think you jinxed my car with the post as my chassis warning has returned. Doh!!

Last of the dirty jobs on this for now, well, until I work out what bushes need doing, wishbones or drop links.

I wanted to drop the exhaust as I noticed some leaking from one of the clamps (turns out that was loose), the exhaust flaps were stuck and most important, change the typical Porsche chocolate exhaust bolts for stainless ones and most importantly, get better access to some areas of the floor in order to waxoyl and protect.

Firstly, was to remove these exhaust sleeves, one had clearer been replaced recently as the bolts weren't rusty and this was the one that was leaking, the bolts were loose, I assume some heat cycling has caused that..



This clamp, someone couldn't be arsed to replace both bolts, one came off nicely, the other required my dremel.



The job of removing the exhaust looked easy, nothing was in it's way, so in theory, should jut drop down once the mounts were undone. only 4 mounts support the rear section, no under trays or supports, so nice and easy.

Everything undone nicely, managed to get it down but the problem came when trying to pull the tailpipes from the bumper, due to the height of the car, I just couldn't get a good angle, had this been up on a ramp, I would have had no issue. So after much banging and kicking around, I had to give in and remove the rear bumper cover.

Thankfully, this took a matter of minutes, 15 perhaps and I was happy to do this as it gave me a chance to see behind the bumper.

Once this was off, the exhaust was ready to hit the ground.





Once down, I could pull a few bits off to give full access to the underside in order for lots of wire brushing, drill with a wire wheel, all in prep for a range of products, area dependent. Stone chip, thick gloopy waxoyl, Dynax, hammerite, some silver and some lacquer. I did this first as I needed some stages to dry before being able to coat again.

No surprises, just minor stuff which wouldn't be a threat if left.





Went over most of the joins as this is where the factory sealent tend to split and let water sit.



Below, you can see the midle portion of the car is quite fresh but the back portion, muddy, surface rust on the subframes etc, so this was the area I wanted to sort out with the exhaust out of the way.



Mixture of waxoyl and stone chip


While that was all drying, I spent a few hours on the exhaust flaps, cutting off the old clamp bolts, cleaning the tips up and putting back together with stainless stuff.

First, I tested the actuators, I removed the actuator arms from the valve arms and used a vacuum pump, all was well, both worked nicely.



Once clamp bolts were cut off, the tailpipes were free! This would give me a good look inside the valve area. The tipe were left in a bucket of g101 after being blasted with korrosol to help remove the bulk of the carbon before the polishing wheel came out, annoyingly, I didn't take pics but they're looking like new now!! Will get some on the next detail.



Taking a look at the flap! Both were stuck in similar positions. Thankfully open.



Now this was something I reallyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy wanted to fix but I wasn't successful. I soaked them in PB Blaster, WD, heated with a blow torch, freeze sprayed, repeated this and without wanting to apply too much force with hammers and pry bars, the shaft wasn't budging, I think in the end, I opened them more but probably through bending the butterfly.

I admitted defeat on this one, I'm happy that they're open and it isn't so loud that you would want it quiet, so it's fine by me. If anyone has any tips on how to free these, let me know but I can't think what else I can do..

I was a bit pissed off at this point so I didn't really take many pictures. I had painted the underside silver to tidy it up, refitted heatsheilds and started to refit. I regret not cleaning up the heatsheild as I normally would have but I was annoyed at the flaps and getting a bit tired, you can't see it anyhow but looking back at the pictures, I wish I cleaned it :wack:



Stainless coach bolts / nuts for sleeves



Exhaust back up, had given the mounts a coating of paint.



And that's it for now, the underside is now fully protected and cleaned.

It got a good wash and hoover the next day as it was pretty caked in pollen.

Few jobs done last night, some fun, 1 not so fun.

Rained finally, got to see the protection on the paint working.



I'm investigating an issue I've got at the moment, I keep getting the 'Chassis system faulty' warning appear, it appears as soon as you hit 4mph. Resets once you turn the car off and back on but as soon as you hit 4, it's back and it seems to deactivate the PDCC..

This is the rear axle PDCC valve body, Demort has helped massively on educating me and anyone interested in what this is about. It seems scary at first but since I have been looking in to my issue, this is just a body with 2 pressure sensors and 2 motors. I refuse to buy a complete unit for £700+ when I know that the issue is going to boil down to a service or replacement of the components fitted to the body, I plan on trying to figure it out and hopefully it will save people replacing the whole lot, myself too.

So, with cover removed, here it is.



I wanted to check all plug connections and ideally, gain part numbers of components to find replacements.

After a dust down of the unit, I started pulling plugs and checking for dirt ingress/rust.

For reference, I found a part number for the pressure sensors and can source replacements for £22-30 each.





Bingo! I found rust within a plug, I got slightly excited at the sight, as this could be the cause of my issue..



After a clean with some tiny tools and IPA solvent, I buttoned it all back up.

Cover back on and replaced the original bolts with some stainless ones.



Tried it out and no change, warning was back. At this point, I'm going to get the code checked again and pay attention to the description before I start with new pressure senders.

TBC

I replaced the rear number plate lights with some LED versions, they were too bright, so I applied some tint film to tone them down.

Left tinted, right BRIGHT!





I noticed that one of the SMD tail lights wasn't working, so I set about the fiddly job of replacing it.

Desoldered and removed





String of replacements



For ref;



All working!



That's all!

Once I get past the PDCC problem, I'll do something a bit more exciting.

Did a quick photoshop of the roof bars removed and different colours on the wheels. I think I'll be sticking with silver. Roof bars, not sure I'm fussed either way.





This just arrived, new PDCC fluid tank, I'll give that a swap at some point.