Wheel Nuts

love154 · 29 Mar 2019

Just having my car detailed and been to that the wheel nuts have corroded and melted there self to the wheels. I have had to have these sorted but dont want it doing it again. So what wheel nuts should i now get had a look at the stainless. any body no the best place to get them

Thanks

Grant

James M-S · 29 Mar 2019

Just put a dab of copper slip on the threads and spray paint the heads is what most people do.

Don't forget the point of the Porsche crest on your centre cap should point to the valve stem, and if you're really OCD, the locking wheel bolt should be opposite the valve stem.

:lol:

Luddite · 29 Mar 2019

Don`t know what material Porsche use for wheel nuts these days, but SCs were alloy and could give all sorts of problems if the paint was allowed to suffer as the result of heavy handed use of a wheel brace or worse still an air gun. in time the nuts would break up when you tried to undo them...

Went out to the garage where my old car has SS wheel nuts and dug through an old tin of Porsche nuts bolts screws etc to find a wheel nut from one of my SC`s

SC wheel nut weighed in at 18g and the SS nut of similar dimensions weighed in at 47g.. Five nuts per wheel equals an increase in un-sprung weight of ... :?:

Something to think about... perhaps not.. :?:

Gottans · 29 Mar 2019

I believe porsche specify aluminium grease rather than copper slip.

Paul Farrar · 29 Mar 2019

Gottans said:
I believe porsche specify aluminium grease rather than copper slip.

And not on the threads either.

jonno_ · 29 Mar 2019

Indeed. Common issue.
White lithium grease, but NOT on the threads - you'll over-torque otherwise.

Martian · 29 Mar 2019

I bought titanium bolts many years ago from PorscheShop. Obviously no corrosion, a lot lighter and they still look like new. Circa £350 for 20 though.

P9XX · 29 Mar 2019

997.2 Wheel Bolts

Re-painting will give a good appearance upgrade to rusty Original OE bolts.
My bolts are 2 piece items, a steel bolt of 44 mm under the head length with a pressed-in-place aluminium spherical cap which goes between the steel of the bolt and the aluminium wheel. The original finish of the steel part was electro-zinc plated. On my bolts, the aluminium spherical caps were beginning to delaminate down the sides but the 2 thrust surfaces were intact. The cause of the rust on the treated steel and damage to the Ali-caps is most likely due to the effect of wheel / brake dust cleaners, many of which contain phosphoric acid. The acid will quickly remove the few microns of electro-zinc and will also rot aluminium.
To refurb, remove rust from bolt head with a wire brush, preferably on an angle grinder. Mask the threads and ali-spherical cap. Etch Primer the bolt head, when dry, paint with brake caliper silver. I used Halfrauds own products.
About Copaslip or Aluminium based Anti Seize, my cars handbook tells me to use Molub Alloy TA (ali based) on the threads and between the steel bolt head and the aluminium spherical cap but not on the surface which fits against the alloy wheel. Molub Alloy TA is quite difficult to obtain but is sold by BMW Motorcycle dealers and alternatives are available on Fleabay. Search for "Aluminium anti seize".
I considered Stainless Steel replacements but : Wheels, brakes, suspension and steering are all safety critical so decided on refurb.
Hope all this is relevant to your situation.
Stewart.

basildon993 · 29 Mar 2019

James M-S said:
Don't forget the point of the Porsche crest on your centre cap should point to the valve stem, and if you're really OCD, the locking wheel bolt should be opposite the valve stem.

:lol:

And if you are really, really OCD make sure that the tyres are rotated around the rims so that the sidewall lettering is in the same position on all wheels!

timbo1811 · 29 Mar 2019

Copper slip on the threads is ok but not on the seat which I believe is where the friction is achieved to achieve the torque setting. I've done this for 40+ years with out any issues.

DucatiRob · 29 Mar 2019

Grease on wheel nuts can of worms

I think the Porsche advice is a little aluslip on the wheel bolt seat, not on the threads! Copper + Aluminium will lead to galvanic corrosion due to differential materials if there is some moisture present as well. Unlikely to lead to anything catastrophic but better safe than sorry :thumb:

timbo1811 · 29 Mar 2019

DucatiRob said:
Grease on wheel nuts can of worms I think the Porsche advice is a little aluslip on the wheel bolt seat, not on the threads! Copper + Aluminium will lead to galvanic corrosion due to differential materials if there is some moisture present as well. Unlikely to lead to anything catastrophic but better safe than sorry :thumb:

The handbook says not to put grease on the seat, therefore I assume no risk of any galvanic reaction.

deMort · 29 Mar 2019

Major service .. we use a wire wheel to sand off the rust on the bolt head .. we primer then paint the wheel bolt head .

We use ally grease ( silver ) on the threads only .. never get it on the cone .

There are x2 colours of wheel bolts .. silver .. the original and you do them up to 100 ft lb... 130 nm.

The black ones are the new ones .. from memory they are tightened to 112 ft lb .

Silver ones corrode faster than the black ones but in the end they all go rusty .

DucatiRob · 29 Mar 2019

timbo1811 said:
The handbook says not to put grease on the seat, therefore I assume no risk of any galvanic reaction.

I stand corrected

DucatiRob · 29 Mar 2019

DucatiRob said:
timbo1811 said:

The handbook says not to put grease on the seat, therefore I assume no risk of any galvanic reaction.

Click to expand...

I stand corrected

But also to grease the threads hence using ali grease rather than copperslip!

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