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New 997.1 tt owner - advice needed please

easternjets said:
When the coil packs fail they fail completely and you will have a noticeable misfire.
Coil packs fail because the older style get moisture inside them, they split and then they fail.

This is not quite true Nick, coil pack failure is not binary.

Sure, when they split, corrode and get wet they misfire. However when they dry out they can also return to working as if nothing had happened.

Equally, as they age they may not produce as high a quality spark from the plug as they should and this can lead to misfiring or hesitation when the most powerful spark is required - ie at high speed/WOT.

Regardless, its best to change them as soon as you can so you have a baseline from which to fault find.

Personally, I'd be surprised if the exhaust leak was causing any of the problems you've mentioned, especially if its after the post cat lambda. Erratic idles are often linked to post MAF vac leaks and fuelling problems (ie injectors, fuel pressure etc) although there are many others.

Good luck with the troubleshooting, I'm sure it'll be well worth the effort :thumb:
 
That's a bit confusing 'ragpicker' to say that the failures are binary, as this would insinuate that there are 2 reasons why they fail. My comment was relating to the cause of the failure rather than the symptom and as the item is electrical there may be many reasons for them to stop working.
My point was that 'generally' when they fail it's due to corrosion and splitting and water ingress which would be terminal in most electrical items, so as a 'precaution' it would be sage to replace them as soon as it becomes apparent that they are starting to deteriorate.
Or to put in simply if they look shot, change them! Especially so as they give no warning that they are failing.
It's good to catch up with you at last after Dinslaken, although maybe not in this way.
 
I think we've got our wires crossed Nick (pardon the pun)!

I was saying that pack failures are NOT binary, and was trying to say that there is a large grey area between working and failing completely.

I didn't realise my comment came across as offensive towards you, was just trying to help the OP out. Apologies if it came across that way :dont know:

I thought your post implied that once packs failed, they failed and that was that (which isn't true). It read to me that if you don't always have a misfire then the packs haven't failed. I just wanted to clear this up for others reading...

Now I feel like the water is even muddier :?
 
My understanding of the term 'binary' in this context is that it means something is either working or not working.

Coil packs don't fail in a binary manner as they can deteriorate but still work, albeit less effectively.

I don't know how much they under-perform when they are cracked but even in the wet they still work intermittently.

My car has just had all six replaced and five of them looked awful. They were still working very well - not as good as the new six though. :D
 
As my post stated if they look split/rusty or are 10 yrs old or more then replace them. As they are not a roadside fix this would be a wise thing to do and as the car was being stripped anyway a bit of a no brainer.
My cars coil packs also looked terrible but hadn't failed, my main point as well was that they give no warning and I know a number of people with gen 1 cars especially that have been stranded when one has failed completely.
And as usual a simple 'tip' has been turned into an in depth discussion of what might or might not be right!
 
easternjets said:
As my post stated if they look split/rusty or are 10 yrs old or more then replace them. As they are not a roadside fix this would be a wise thing to do and as the car was being stripped anyway a bit of a no brainer.

:yeah: even though darkhorse's original post said that they'd been changed 3 years ago.

I also agree that even if 5 of the 6 are working 100% it wouldn't be nice to be any distance from home with a mis-firing car.
 
Yes Terry, some people have told me that even when one goes it renders the car virtually 'dead'.
As the OP got the car at a reasonable price it will only add to the value to get all the jobs done that are relatively cheap in regards to components but high in labour charges.
My list ended up including coolant pipes, pump, front rad, drive belt, coil packs, plugs and new manifolds.

One thing I also did was the Turbo actuator rods, they're about £30 each and a relatively easy swap out when the cars on a ramp and the inner arches are removed. The rods might look in reasonable condition but it's the retaining clips that corrode and the ball joint pops off quite easily. You can test the function of the actuator by just pushing it with your hand.
 
Well work is still ongoing...
By good fortune the engine bay water pipes are new or have been replaced recently (who would have thought you had to remove the engine to replace them!).
The front radiator pipes however need doing and as such they are all being replaced. Quite a lot of work as they are all welded into one another even though one had clear evidence of a leak at some point (green furring).

All exhaust/turbo related studs , nuts and bolts are being salvaged where possible (studs threads having a tap to clean them) and new stainless steel parts on the turbo to manifold joints.

The only thing I have yet to suss out seems to be a micro oil weep from some kind of drain plug at the bottom of the engine on the NS rear face. Not enough for a drip but I can see a little stain underneath it running down the casing. It has an allen key hole in the middle of it(passenger side ). Its like a cylindrical disc with an allen key hole in the centre. I will try and get a picture of it, its not the timing chain tensioner. But as yet I dont know what it is for!!!


I will get a picture of it tomorrow and post up for any info available!

The main battle seems to be removing rusted nuts. No idea what Porsche was thinking using mild steel all over the place!!
 
Have no experience with coil packs, though I did effect a temporary repair on a cracked HT coil by spraying it with WD40 to disperse damp and provide temporary insulation properties...

Perhaps if you have a misfire and suspect a coil pack it might be worth a try.. :?:
 
So all the front rad pipes are nearly done, aux water pump (had a big struggle with replacing that) the one thing that is remaining and that I am trying to find info on is

this, it looks like a chain tensioner? but I dont have the manual for the 997.1 turbo at present, the workshop manual I have is actually for the 997 3.6/3.8 NA versions, can anyone advise me if it is or even better if someone could steer me towards the 997.1 turbo engine manual I would be most grateful!

So yes, does engine need setting at TDC for this to be removed, or can it be unwound a couple of turns and some sealant put in the top threads as a stop gap. Basically, what the hell is it. Just looking for workshop procedure to remove/reseal it basically. Cheers!





Current state of affairs!

upload
 
So, I am massively struggling to get a workshop manual for the 997.1 T, which is a real pain in the backside. If anyone knows where I can get one I would be very grateful. It's the first car I have had this much difficulty getting a manual for!!
 
I've sent you a copy. Don't think that is a tensioner, I had a leak from another plug on the O/S of the bottom of the engine block.
Best to msg Demort he'll know for sure, best to do that before I encourage you to remove it!!
 
easternjets said:
I've sent you a copy. Don't think that is a tensioner, I had a leak from another plug on the O/S of the bottom of the engine block.
Best to msg Demort he'll know for sure, best to do that before I encourage you to remove it!!

Cheers. Thats the parts manual so cant really assist with my query over this bit sadly. Other thoughts are it is a chain guide, but until I get my hands on a tech manual Im struggling on this.

I found that I can get the info on Piwis online. But guess what, the site doesnt work properly!

I will pm demort, many thanks
 
Demort is your best and safest bet. Had a look myself and it looks like an access plug, chances are it just needs removing, cleaning and a new seal.
 
Pm sent ..

Its been about 7-8 years since ive pulled one of these appart and im afraid that contrary to popular opinion here i Dont know every part of every Porsche ever built ..

It would be nice though :D

It looks to me like there is 3 seperate oil leaks with the n/s/r one being the chain guide bolt or above that and running down .. it will have a rubber seal on it.

Its also not something you can just undo if it is that thats leaking ..

With any oil leak .. clean off the entire area .. brake cleaner .. leave that to dry then run up the car and look top and bottom for where the leak is coming from ..

Its often not from where you think .

Edit ..

Just for info .. Porsche stopped making paper or online manuals for every market other than the USA from 2004 .

USA with their rules insist on a hard copy .. there is NO UK equivelent manauls for any car after this date , USA copys are as rare as hens teeth im afraid .. its all online these days ... its called PPN .. Porsche Private Network .. you need to be an OPC to have access .
 

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