Carerra s with 98k

Just put details into we buy any car....

They would offer £11680. can this be right??

what would a dealer be offering?

tvrkris said:

Just put details into we buy any car....

They would offer £11680. can this be right??

what would a dealer be offering?

Click to expand...

WBAC offer the minimum price they think they could get at auction less their likely costs.

A dealer might offer more if they felt it was a better car than that but I suspect with 98k miles showing they'd want it for under £13k.

I have just seen this

https://www.pistonheads.com/classif...carrera-997/porsche-911-997-carrera-2/9515395

3.6 2005 with 108000 at Zuffenhaus £17995....

I will look to secure a Gen 2 I think...

As the years go by mileage becomes less important, I'd go as far to say it becomes one of the least important aspects when buying a 997.1 as the youngest are 10+ years old now.

Of far more importance is the history of work carried out and by that I mean not just a stamp in the book every service interval as that's the bare minimum a car should receive.

Having receipts/history for non service work carried out on the engine, brakes, suspension, ancillaries, radiators, etc should be what you're looking for coupled with the general feel of the car, how well the interiors fared, the condition of the bodywork and paint and how many previous owners it's had, stuff like that.

Once a car gets near 100k or 10 years old then milage is pretty much irrelevant and the above points are what you should be taking into account, at 10 plus years if any of the above work hasn't been done it certainly will need doing in the near future even if the car's only done 50k.

I'd far rather buy a properly cared for and documented 997.1 with 100k+ on the clock than a 50k one with only the stamps in the service book.

Cannop said:

As the years go by mileage becomes less important, I'd go as far to say it becomes one of the least important aspects when buying a 997.1 as the youngest are 10+ years old now.

Of far more importance is the history of work carried out and by that I mean not just a stamp in the book every service interval as that's the bare minimum a car should receive.

Having receipts/history for non service work carried out on the engine, brakes, suspension, ancillaries, radiators, etc should be what you're looking for coupled with the general feel of the car, how well the interiors fared, the condition of the bodywork and paint and how many previous owners it's had, stuff like that.

Once a car gets near 100k or 10 years old then milage is pretty much irrelevant and the above points are what you should be taking into account, at 10 plus years if any of the above work hasn't been done it certainly will need doing in the near future even if the car's only done 50k.

I'd far rather buy a properly cared for and documented 997.1 with 100k+ on the clock than a 50k one with only the stamps in the service book.

Click to expand...

+1

@Rhodris Dad... with your car when you found it had scored bores, what led you to get the diagnosis done?

Rhodris-dad said:

Cannop said:

As the years go by mileage becomes less important, I'd go as far to say it becomes one of the least important aspects when buying a 997.1 as the youngest are 10+ years old now.

Of far more importance is the history of work carried out and by that I mean not just a stamp in the book every service interval as that's the bare minimum a car should receive.

Having receipts/history for non service work carried out on the engine, brakes, suspension, ancillaries, radiators, etc should be what you're looking for coupled with the general feel of the car, how well the interiors fared, the condition of the bodywork and paint and how many previous owners it's had, stuff like that.

Once a car gets near 100k or 10 years old then milage is pretty much irrelevant and the above points are what you should be taking into account, at 10 plus years if any of the above work hasn't been done it certainly will need doing in the near future even if the car's only done 50k.

I'd far rather buy a properly cared for and documented 997.1 with 100k+ on the clock than a 50k one with only the stamps in the service book.

Click to expand...

+1

Click to expand...

+2. As long as the price is relevant to the mileage....

Robertb said:

@Rhodris Dad... with your car when you found it had scored bores, what led you to get the diagnosis done?

Click to expand...

It was due for a service and as it had all it's stamps, I decided to let Hartech have a look at it.

At that time bore scoring was still not that well publicised. I had no idea but they must have had heard the light tapping and did a investigation.

spongebob squarepants said:

+2. As long as the price is relevant to the mileage....

Click to expand...

My point is the older a car gets the less important this is. A 100k 997.1 could be a much better buy at the same price as a 50k one depending on the history of both.

I looked for almost a year for my 997.1 and I saw dozens of cars, a lot of them purporting to be around the 50 to 60k mileage mark and a lot at around the 100k mark.

Almost without exception (I say almost!) the 100k cars I viewed had a more honest history than the lower mileage cars, I think this may be because I tended to choose carefully the higher mileage cars I went to see. One of my criteria was 3 or less previous owners and it seemed the owners I met tended to be enthusiasts in the complete sense of the word. The things that turned me off some of the higher mileage ones I viewed wasn't anything to do with mechanical history as on the whole they all seemed very well looked after, it was more the spec levels and colours that I was fussy about.

With the lower mileage cars I widened my net and visited quite a number of dealers and all I can say is it was an eye opener! Exceptional 50 to 60k cars being sold by a dealer command exceptional prices whereas run of the mill tired examples (always with a fully stamped service book strangely enough) seem to be offered at what I'd expect to be paying for a decent example.

T8 said:

tvrkris said:

... I am now in that paranoid moment as there are lots of horror stories about the Gen 1... am I better paying more for a gen 2????

not really fancying a engine rebuild at 8k......

Click to expand...

If you're able to buy a Gen2 car I would.

It's a straight choice.

(a) Spend £30k now for a newer car and relative peace of mind.

(b) spend £20k now + a continuous nagging doubt + a possible £8k spend at some time.

Good luck :thumb:

Click to expand...

The cost of a rebuild on a Gen 1, would more or less bring you up to the cost of a Gen 2 with no rebuild. Gen 2 is also not 100% bullet proof, and is now a 10 year old car. In my mind, you are better off with a Gen 1, if nothing goes wrong you saved yourself 10-15k.

I am on 9.5 years on a 14 year old Gen 1 with 63k miles, and it is fine.

Drive the car above 3k revs as much as possible (stay in lower gears if necessary), change oil (Millers NT) every year or 5-6k miles (religiously keep it topped up). Keep a close eye on coolant level.

Change the air and pollen filters yourself (Mann from eurocarparts), stretch out the spark plug change to 5-6 years or say 30k miles, and only spend money when it something needs to be fixed (i.e. when the brake warning goes off, I will change the brakes!). Also, 2 year brake fluid change is a waste of money - should be more like 8 year - we live in the UK, not Dubai!

The last stamp in my book was nine years ago (and I don't care about service history nonsense). If tomorrow I have to Hartech rebuild engine, I would just pay it.

T8 said:

tvrkris said:

Just put details into we buy any car....

They would offer £11680. can this be right??

what would a dealer be offering?

Click to expand...

WBAC offer the minimum price they think they could get at auction less their likely costs.

A dealer might offer more if they felt it was a better car than that but I suspect with 98k miles showing they'd want it for under £13k.

Click to expand...

I wish I could pick a 997.1 for £13k, models seem to bottom out about £17k normally, I am talking advertised prices of course. So much car for that kind of money, you could just drive it all the time and not have to worry about supermarket parking and depreciation.