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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:10 pm    Post subject: cv joint servicing Reply with quote

just replacing the boots on my drive shafts (c2)... following various online guides I've got the axle stripped to the extent that the inner cv joint is off the axle. now I'm looking at the outer joint and wondering how far to go. the instructions I've got, suggest that the cap covering the outer cv should come off to enable cleaning and repacking... however it is resisting my persuasion tool and I don't want to start getting all hulk style on it because I don't think this cap can be ordered separately from the whole axle. I'm thinking it might be best just to leave this outer side alone, clean up as best as I can with cap in place and add a bit of fresh grease. anyone else tackled this recently ?
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Endoman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep exactly that, the inner boot had split. Clean up, regrease. It would appear that the outer cv joint is nsp and you need a new half shaft if the joint is us. I did get a cover for the inner with the boot.
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wilsonny
Monza


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks endoman. what a filthy job this is... I've got grease where I didn't think you could even get grease.
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peter y.s pang
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, how to test the cv joint is bad or not、

tks
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Cameltoe & Heel
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes and exactly this reason I ended up with two new driveshafts.....if you damage that flange you is screwed.... Mad

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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
Yep exactly that, the inner boot had split. Clean up, regrease. It would appear that the outer cv joint is nsp and you need a new half shaft if the joint is us. I did get a cover for the inner with the boot.


don't suppose you used the Porsche cv boot clips did you ? I bought these from opc, but I've struggled to get them tight as they are just a plain band with a tab fastener and can't be tightened using a normal clip tool and don't have a tightening crimp. I've done a best endeavours job and they look ok....I think.
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Endoman
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ones I used had an Oertiker type clamp supplied by Design 911. The one I replaced wasn't that old but had split, retained by a cable tie.
As you say a very messy job.
Can't remeber why I needed the Swiss army knife and continuity tester.
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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
The ones I used had an Oertiker type clamp supplied by Design 911. The one I replaced wasn't that old but had split, retained by a cable tie.
As you say a very messy job.
Can't remeber why I needed the Swiss army knife and continuity tester.


hmmm... i might need to consider some different clips. just building myself up to having a go at refitting the first axle this weekend.
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wilsonny
Monza


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
The ones I used had an Oertiker type clamp supplied by Design 911. The one I replaced wasn't that old but had split, retained by a cable tie.
As you say a very messy job.
Can't remeber why I needed the Swiss army knife and continuity tester.


... one more question if you don't mind... did you use any sealant either inside the cv caps or between the cap and the gearbox ? info in the workshop manual seems to suggest it should be used.
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Endoman
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I can recall no. Nice write up here:-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-964-993-technical-forum/181361-993-howto-60k-cv-joint-servicing.html
I also used a GKN kit.
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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
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Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2019 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
From what I can recall no. Nice write up here:-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-964-993-technical-forum/181361-993-howto-60k-cv-joint-servicing.html
I also used a GKN kit.


thanks... that's the main guide I've been using, but it's also the one that suggests the outer cv cap comes off so ive also used a bunch of others inc one from a 928 owner, but you know what it's like.... sometimes the more you read, the more contrary advice there is. useful to hear you never bothered with sealant.
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AP90
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Joined: 25 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done for tackling this job, I bottled out last year and it cost me a bundle to have my specialist do it. Even they said it's a bit of a number to as a diy

I do remember reading about how messy it is, another reason I swerved as I tend to lose patience with those kind of jobs at home.

Hope it all goes well

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decgraham
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too bulked at changing the boots myself a couple of years ago. I bought 4 kits from Matt at Type911 and had my local Indy do the job. Not too expensive IMHO, came in at €170.00 Thumb

ATB Smile
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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

decgraham wrote:
I too bulked at changing the boots myself a couple of years ago. I bought 4 kits from Matt at Type911 and had my local Indy do the job. Not too expensive IMHO, came in at €170.00 Thumb

ATB Smile


yeah... I'm working on number two axle tonight... still covered in grease ! sort of talked myself into tackling it because I got a hydraulic lift this year... it has made it much easier of course but it's still a bit of a task for me at least.. got to try getting them back in yet. 170 for this job sounds mighty cheap right now.

as usual, doing it yourself is enlightening however... I've discovered all sorts along the way that reputable indies have cut corners on doing work on my car (some time ago). one of the jobs I've tackled while the axles are off is changing the sluggish starter motor and having gone through the extreme limbo manoeuvre required to remove it, I can see that previous professionals had failed to replace all the little things like protection cap on the starter, ties on the wire bundles and had mis- routed various bits and pieces. lot to be said if you've got the will and a little ability for doing some things yourself.
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decgraham
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Joined: 17 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi wilsonny,

Yes I agree, when you do the job yourself you know for sure whats been done and how it's been done. I try and take on as much as I can now but a few years back the car scared me Rolling Eyes why, I don't know because as I've done more I've realised it's not too complicated. I always take plenty of pictures when I tackle a job and it's served me well. I might take a bit more time than a pro but I'm in no hurry and want to do it right. Still use my indy on jobs I can't do due to lack of tools or equipment but that isn't that many.

Keep up the good work and I hope it all worked out well with the other axle Thumb

ATB Smile
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wilsonny
Monza


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks.. appreciate the words of moral support...keep me focused on getting this thing back on the road for the end of the month.

one thing that might be useful to others, is that I've tackled changing the starter motor, which of course is much easier when the drive shaft is off on the drivers side. mine has been doing the solenoid clunk for a while, so I'd rather not find out if it's going to fail on me one day. I decided to get a new Bosch unit from design911 because it was the same price as a refurb unit and a fifth of the price quoted by opc (also for a refurb unit).

the new unit is the same as fitted to 996 and later I believe. fits great and most significantly it is about 3cm shorter than the old one. for those of you who've done this job you'll know that this is a very significant size discrepancy, and it means you can much more easily get the top fastener on...I even managed to fit the washer and get my torque wrench on there. relatively speaking, it's a breeze with the extra space the shorter unit gives you. definitely a recommended swap if your needing to do it and not overly up-tight about keeping the old Bosch unit (which as far as I can see, does not have any Porsche markings on anyway).

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zp2iPtzMmE6gXsVV6[/img]

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/Np3fZFfsbWZR8xwFA[/img]
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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...if those links don't work, these ones should:


https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zp2iPtzMmE6gXsVV6


https://photos.app.goo.gl/Np3fZFfsbWZR8xwFA
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Endoman
Barcelona


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
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Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wilsonny wrote:
thanks.. appreciate the words of moral support...keep me focused on getting this thing back on the road for the end of the month.

one thing that might be useful to others, is that I've tackled changing the starter motor, which of course is much easier when the drive shaft is off on the drivers side. mine has been doing the solenoid clunk for a while, so I'd rather not find out if it's going to fail on me one day. I decided to get a new Bosch unit from design911 because it was the same price as a refurb unit and a fifth of the price quoted by opc (also for a refurb unit).

the new unit is the same as fitted to 996 and later I believe. fits great and most significantly it is about 3cm shorter than the old one. for those of you who've done this job you'll know that this is a very significant size discrepancy, and it means you can much more easily get the top fastener on...I even managed to fit the washer and get my torque wrench on there. relatively speaking, it's a breeze with the extra space the shorter unit gives you. definitely a recommended swap if your needing to do it and not overly up-tight about keeping the old Bosch unit (which as far as I can see, does not have any Porsche markings on anyway).

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zp2iPtzMmE6gXsVV6[/img]

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/Np3fZFfsbWZR8xwFA[/img]

Very useful information thumbsup
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wilsonny
Monza


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Cumbria


PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got the car back on the road a couple of weeks ago and thought I'd give a little update on this thread regarding my experience of changing the cv boots.

Took a few pics of the process: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jfebjL78L_5dVBkFceWM6GDIb-dwgbkd/view?usp=sharing

I mainly followed the guide linked earlier in this thread and of course had a few welcome tips from this forum. As a result, I can offer the following suggestions if anyone is thinking of tackling this job themselves:

* Getting the big axle nut off is easy with a 2m 3/4 inch breaker bar. Combine this bar with a digital torque meter (ebay about £70) and it is straight forward to get the torque you need when re-tightening.

* Doing the passenger side, is much easier than the drivers side, due to the absence of the oil return line. I'd recommend starting on that one first. When jacking up the suspension to get the clearance to remove (or re-insert) the drive shaft, you need to really go for it and compress the suspension fully in order to get the clearance to remove the shaft. I found that with my car on the lift, I jacked from the shock absorber lower mount until it was lifting the car and also pressed down on the rear arch to get another bit of compression. It really is critical to getting the clearance needed to drive out the shaft.

* The guide is generally good, but it is incorrect in suggesting the outer cv cap can be removed - it can't. You can only clean up the outside and work on the cv joint in situ. Once you get most of the old grease out, you can help to drive the new grease into the shaft by exploiting the fact that the shaft is hollow which allows you to alternately cover the holes, pull the joint outward and thereby suck the grease deeper into the joint (that was a tip on the 928 forum).

* I got all the bits from OPC, including the grease and cv clips. These clips I probably wouldn't buy again because they are a plain band that is really difficult to tighten - presumably OPC have a special tool.

* A lot of people talk about the difficulty in getting new boots onto the caps. I found a pair of the hooked, plastic bicycle tyre tools are ideal for this job

* When re-aligning the caps on the inner cv joint, you can use the fitting bolts and tighten them evenly to ensure the caps are aligned with the cv holes. When refitting to the gearbox you'll quickly find out if they are not fully aligned. Remember to follow the advice and re-check the torques after the first drive in the car. Mine did need re-tightening.

* When it comes to the drivers side, the guide suggests loosening the bolt holding the oil return tube. I wouldn't do this again because it does not give any more space and without this bolt in place if you knock the tube it is liable to disrupt the fitting on the bottom of the engine. This happened to me.

* While the drivers side shaft is off, you have access to the starter motor, so if you want to change or service it, then now is the time. I mentioned previously, that the best option for me was to get a new bosch unit which I believe is the same fitted to 996 and later. To my way of thinking, it's ideal because it's identical to the original other than being a couple of cm shorter which makes a massive amount of difference to how easy it is to refit.

So another job off the list. I'd also just say that some people seem to do this job easily, but I found it quite tricky. I think I'm reasonably competent and have the benefit of a scissor lift and it certainly took a while to do the full job, including removal, strip down, rebuild and refitting. I do tend to take my time, research and make sure I get it right, but it took me weeks to fit in this work. Something to bear in mind, if your normal garage is offering to do the job at a reasonable rate.

Anyway, back on the road now and running sweet for the summer Smile
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alex-j
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for taking the time to write up your experience and pass on the knowledge. Invaluable if this job comes up.
 
  
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