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RPM Technik is one of the UK’s leading independent Porsche specialists. RPM specialise in all models of Porsche from classic through to current.

Crank but will not start 2002 Porsche 996tt turbo

Basically you need a fault code read out from every control unit in the car .. if you can get that and post here it will help a lot.

Some times you may not have a code in the DME but a code in the Tiptronic that will help .

For now a fault code read out of the alarm is something i would like looked at ... there are also some actual values that can be looked at with a tester includeing if its in alarm mode or if its immobilised or not .. very usefull to have a look at these if possible .
 
If the original poster has to resort to posting on forums in order to help the mechanic, I have a lot of concerns about the machanics ability and motivation to sort the issue.

As many have suggested on here - it seems appropriate to move the car to someone more experienced on Porsche.
 
deMort said:
Basically you need a fault code read out from every control unit in the car .. if you can get that and post here it will help a lot.

Some times you may not have a code in the DME but a code in the Tiptronic that will help .

For now a fault code read out of the alarm is something i would like looked at ... there are also some actual values that can be looked at with a tester includeing if its in alarm mode or if its immobilised or not .. very usefull to have a look at these if possible .
Click to expand...

I am getting crazy. Could not think anything else right now.
Stopped by Monday morning, the car started for 7 minutes without hiccup. He said everyone looks fine, immobilizer is cleans. He runs some charting test, it looks stable. He replaced new fuel.
But after cut off, it could not hold longer than a minute when restarted. Let's it cools down then re-start it.

I left. No faulty codes he responded

Today, my husband stopped by, it runs for 15 minutes but as soon as pressing its pedal, engine stalls.

I will let he knows you suggested looking for tiptronic fault code.
Thank you!

:frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:
 
Ghianightmare said:
If the original poster has to resort to posting on forums in order to help the mechanic, I have a lot of concerns about the machanics ability and motivation to sort the issue.

As many have suggested on here - it seems appropriate to move the car to someone more experienced on Porsche.
Click to expand...
He told us he getting there.
He and his employee pray every day for it to work he said :worship:
 
acc996 said:
He and his employee pray every day for it to work he said :worship:
Click to expand...

I bet you do too :dont know:

What does your husband think of all this :?
 
Ok .. if the cost isnt too much then i think replace the Crank Position Sensor .. the usual symptoms for this are the car will start and run fine but when it gets hot it will fail and the car will cut out .

It will not start until it cools down .. to test you would use a scope and see the pattern when it wont start .

I think you have more than one issue with the car atm but this may be one of them .

You also need a fuel pressure gauge fitted .. when it doesnt start (15 mins ) then make sure it has fuel pressure ..

The reason is .. both of these faults will NOT generate a fault code and this is what you have .

Please print this and give to your mechanic .

I would also add .. when the car doesnt start then put a noid light on an injector and make sure its working correctly .
 
HSC911 said:
acc996 said:
He and his employee pray every day for it to work he said :worship:
Click to expand...

I bet you do too :dont know:

What does your husband think of all this :?
Click to expand...
He did not like it that much! He would not mind to pay if it is right!
But He likes the owner personality. Sincere and honest (even not 100% I think LOL).
My husband type of man every one likes to be friend at first sight LOL. He is very generous, positive thinking and give people credits in advance LOL.
 
deMort said:
Ok .. if the cost isnt too much then i think replace the Crank Position Sensor .. the usual symptoms for this are the car will start and run fine but when it gets hot it will fail and the car will cut out .

It will not start until it cools down .. to test you would use a scope and see the pattern when it wont start .

I think you have more than one issue with the car atm but this may be one of them .

You also need a fuel pressure gauge fitted .. when it doesnt start (15 mins ) then make sure it has fuel pressure ..

The reason is .. both of these faults will NOT generate a fault code and this is what you have .

Please print this and give to your mechanic .

I would also add .. when the car doesnt start then put a noid light on an injector and make sure its working correctly .
Click to expand...

Sorry, took that long to respond because He was then tried working on it . I did print and handed to him.

Finally,

I just picked the car 2 hours ago, after almost 4 months short :?:
He replaced new gas, coil #5, all sparkplugs, and 6 new injectors.

This morning, I asked what were exactly wrong with it. He said I replaced coil #5. Then I asked so it was not injectors? Injectors make it run, but for smooth, coil is. I do not like after fix the car still hesitating. I did not charge you the coil and all new sparkplugs replaced.

For that 4 months of diagnosis and replacement parts, Total out of the door $3000 US cash. Was it good, fair or high?
My husband said, good price even he does not know much about our car but he did put lot of hours working on it.

The car still not run smooth as of in relearn stage after many times of discharged battery, I hope.
Bring the car back next week to get adjust if any, he said.

Much appreciated to All Of You here ! Especially Demort!

I will reported back when the car relearned done.
 
:thumb:

let the car adapt ... then check for fault codes after a few weeks of driveing ..

Tell the garage to check the fuel trim settings .. these are the adjustments the car makes to compensate for a fault .. if needed then post them please and ill check them ... give it a few weeks of driveing though .

progress at last !
 
deMort said:
:thumb:

let the car adapt ... then check for fault codes after a few weeks of driveing ..

Tell the garage to check the fuel trim settings .. these are the adjustments the car makes to compensate for a fault .. if needed then post them please and ill check them ... give it a few weeks of driveing though .

progress at last !
Click to expand...
I could not say how much I appreciate to your insight!
He has been driven so far around 10 miles since.

Few minutes ago, on the way to inspection station, check engine light is on.
I called the guy he said inspection will passed even that engine light on. I told him it is not that, the matter is what is going on with the car still? My husband on the way back to your shop now.


What could be wrong you think?

Thank you
 
He just checked the code. I asked what was going on. It runs rich on bank 1 and bank 2. He cleared the code and did not recall. He said could be fuel regulator or so.

My husband drove home and will bring the car back there tomorrow for adjustments.
 
If its running rich on both banks then it needs a new Maf sensor .

To check .. ign on , use a tester and check the voltage .. it should be between 0.9 and 1.1volts .. if outside this replace .

Engine running and you want about 18 Kg/h if the above is ok .. even so its the first item i would be looking at .
 
I think your husband needs to contribute to the deMort JustGiving fund :grin:

Why doesn't he join the forum himself...I hope that's not deemed offensive in any way but it seems a bit odd that you are and he isn't :dont know:

Good luck with the investigations :thumb:
 
deMort said:
If its running rich on both banks then it needs a new Maf sensor .

To check .. gn on , use a tester and check the voltage .. it should be between 0.9 and 1.1volts .. if outside this replace .

Engine running an d you want about 18 Kg/h if the above is ok .. even so its the first item i would be looking at .
Click to expand...

Much appreciated to your help!

Since I posted last time, he swapped my brand new MAP back to original one. It seems strong but rpm are not stable. Then he replaced new fuel pump $600 part, with free labor. (He said because fuel pump does not have enough pressure, I think it needs new pump).

Just picked up the car around 2pm today. Drove Less than 3 miles Check engine light on again at gas station.
I called. Bring back to the shop tomorrow morning, he said.

So far, whatever you indicated they were corrected!

I just scanned . current codes are p0234 and p0507.
What was going on with my car?
Please help!
Thank You!
 
HSC911 said:
I think your husband needs to contribute to the deMort JustGiving fund :grin:

### I thought about that before your post.


Why doesn't he join the forum himself...I hope that's not deemed offensive in any way but it seems a bit odd that you are and he isn't :dont know:

#### he doesn't even read text messages. So, go figure :p


Good luck with the investigations :thumb:

#### Thank you
Click to expand...
 
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