Hi,
New here (and to Porsche) and am going to see a C2 shortly. I plan to get a PPI from an indy if the car looks good, but I wondered if I could elicit thoughts on the things to look for before paying for a PPI. The things that would make you walk away.
For the sake of argument we can assume the seller is a dealer with a decent reputation and car is HPI clear.
Let's assume the car has done at least 70K miles (I'm actually looking at ones more in the 80s-90s).
Things I'm thinking about are:
- good history with regular OPC/indy services.
- invoices for things done.
- it's had a clutch at some point
- cracks / age in the coolant tank
- shakes / rattles etc
- check the AC works properly and is cold
- check discs for warps / wear.
Any other telltale signs that it's best to walk away and not bother with a PPI? I was thinking maybe the rads, but I don't know how one would check these prior to a PPI.
Would you get a borescope on a 3.6 C2 2003/4?
New here (and to Porsche) and am going to see a C2 shortly. I plan to get a PPI from an indy if the car looks good, but I wondered if I could elicit thoughts on the things to look for before paying for a PPI. The things that would make you walk away.
For the sake of argument we can assume the seller is a dealer with a decent reputation and car is HPI clear.
Let's assume the car has done at least 70K miles (I'm actually looking at ones more in the 80s-90s).
Things I'm thinking about are:
- good history with regular OPC/indy services.
- invoices for things done.
- it's had a clutch at some point
- cracks / age in the coolant tank
- shakes / rattles etc
- check the AC works properly and is cold
- check discs for warps / wear.
Any other telltale signs that it's best to walk away and not bother with a PPI? I was thinking maybe the rads, but I don't know how one would check these prior to a PPI.
Would you get a borescope on a 3.6 C2 2003/4?