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Porsche specialists buying, selling, servicing | 911virgin | Uxbridge

2001 C4 project car

I have started on removing the engine. This morning I have removed the following:

Engine earth strap connection to chassis
Front and rear subframe cross supports
Both diagonal supports
Rear ARB
Two coolant pipes (I assume they are heater pipes)
Disconnected driveshafts at the gearbox

I also put penetrating fluid on the two engine mount nuts at the rear



I'll check the instructions but I think I need to disconnect the shift cables and remove the slave cylinder next, then that is most of the jobs underneath the car done and I can move up to the engine bay. I haven't drained the oil from the engine or gearbox yet.

I have ordered a 500kg lifting table which should arrive tomorrow. My plan is to use that to support the engine and gearbox whilst it is unbolted, then it can be lowered as a complete unit.

MC
 
:thumbs:
 
Thanks Infrasilver, I'll do that next.

Just done the slave cylinder and the gear linkages. The ends of the gear cables were a bit of a state so I might change those, neither retainer was properly holding the cable in to the bracket. The top bolt on the slave cylinder was not tight. What a pig they are to get to! I might undo the pipe and fit the slave cylinder with the gearbox down. Or at least refit before putting it all back in to place.





MC
 
Reverse light switch disconnected.



MC
 
MisterCorn said:
Thanks Infrasilver, I'll do that next.

Just done the slave cylinder and the gear linkages. The ends of the gear cables were a bit of a state so I might change those, neither retainer was properly holding the cable in to the bracket. The top bolt on the slave cylinder was not tight. What a pig they are to get to! I might undo the pipe and fit the slave cylinder with the gearbox down. Or at least refit before putting it all back in to place.
Click to expand...

There is some slack in the line if you unclip it so you can remove / refit with the box dropped slightly.

I replaced my slave with a new one so it was not too hard to replace before bleeding (use 1/4" socket set and wobble joint). If you are not replacing then apparently best to crack the bleed nipple and put it it back and bleed afterwards, otherwise you have a fight on your hands.

Clutch pipe parts are hideously overpriced from OPC and the aerospace style push fit "quick fit" connecter (slave must be mounted up to gearbox before fitting in factory) will be corroded together meaning you need the long blue pipe too. Luckily I did not need to remove mine as the flexy and coiled pipe looked reasonable, but be prepared for this if you need to replace. I did think about going to a hydraulic hose place to get something made up rather than drop £hundreds at the OPC if I needed to replace - the expensive push fit connector is unnecessary outside of the factory anyway, no point in buying another.
 
Just a tiny point .. and a mistake me and others have done ..:oops:

When removeing or refitting the engine be very carefull of the CPS wire , if it catches on the brace bar bolt it will break it .

A slight tug on this wire is enough so remove the bolts and just keep an eye on it.

Simple enough to tell if it has caught though .. the car wont start .
 
deMort said:
Just a tiny point .. and a mistake me and others have done ..:oops:

When removeing or refitting the engine be very carefull of the CPS wire , if it catches on the brace bar bolt it will break it .

A slight tug on this wire is enough so remove the bolts and just keep an eye on it.

Simple enough to tell if it has caught though .. the car wont start .
Click to expand...

Agreed, great tip, its easier to remove it beforehand and not fit until the engine is back in, it is so tight it's easy to damage it.
 
Top work Martin, she`s coming along nicely :thumb:

I presume with all the kit you are buying that you will be setting up as a Porsche Indy shortly :grin:
 
Relentless progress. Top job!

Very neat job on the sound deadening removal. :thumb:
 
infrasilver said:
deMort said:
Just a tiny point .. and a mistake me and others have done ..:oops:

When removeing or refitting the engine be very carefull of the CPS wire , if it catches on the brace bar bolt it will break it .

A slight tug on this wire is enough so remove the bolts and just keep an eye on it.

Simple enough to tell if it has caught though .. the car wont start .
Click to expand...

Agreed, great tip, its easier to remove it beforehand and not fit until the engine is back in, it is so tight it's easy to damage it.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I have undone the bolt to remove the sensor, it wiggles around but is reluctant to come out and I don't want to force it. I have rotated the sensor so that the wire is hard up against the engine, I'll put some tape over it so it won't snag before I drop the engine and I'll be very careful to watch it as the engine drops.

MC
 
kurlykris said:
Top work Martin, she`s coming along nicely :thumb:

I presume with all the kit you are buying that you will be setting up as a Porsche Indy shortly :grin:
Click to expand...

I really don't like struggling through to do jobs without the right tools unless the right tools are crazy prices. The table lift is something which will be useful for other cars.

Very little danger of me working on other peoples cars, I can't get the jobs I want done on my own cars, never mind other peoples.

MC
 
After a couple of hours or so of disconnecting pipes and unbolting things, the engine and gearbox are out.









I haven't bothered to do a blow-by-blow account of this as so much was already removed it would be of no use to anybody else.

MC
 
wasz said:
I spy with my little eye.....

....an accessible AOS

I would change it out now so you don't have to go through the trauma of an in situ change.
Click to expand...

The engine will only be in for a few thousand miles tops before it is pulled for the new one to go in, so I probably won't do anything other than fitting the tappet chest for testing and swapping the manifolds so I can use the new ones.

MC
 
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