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Latest Fault!! Volt gauge fluctuating - A/C display flashing

thecarfixer said:
That voltage reg is toast. Possibly diode(s) too as there's loads of fluctuation so you're probably hitting everything with AC.

I wouldn't run that until fixed!

Yes, looking at the video it does look like the rectifier is possibly fubared too, you need to test what AC ripple is coming out of the alternator, should be below 100mv AC. It might just be the voltage regulator though and the control units are protesting on overvoltage.

Multimeter on AC setting, black lead to chassis, red lead on B+ alternator post is best, but battery + Post will show most of the ripple, but dampened by the battery, less than 100mv but 50mv is normal.

I`m thinking more and more that this is your rough running issue Chris :thumb:
 
infrasilver said:
infrasilver said:
Could the pump be affected by the power spikes? The car ran fine tonight until the A/C unit started flashing, the engine stutters and the fans (interior and engine cooling bay) also fluctuate all in turn?

deMort said:
You have an electrical surgeing fault so it seems .. very strange but easy to prove .. remove the wiring from the alternator .. tape the hell out of the main power lead as you are in a world of pain if that shorts out .

Then run the car .. it wil be on the battery only .. if the fault persists then its not the alternator .

very difficult for me to say .. ive not seen anything like this before so i have no real guidance ..

i still think .. you have a battery so a surgeing alternator charge rate if that is what it is would not drop the voltage below battery lvl and as such would have no bearing on the hesitation fault .

If it was a voltage fault then why are there not fault codes for pretty much every control unit .. they all need a set voltage and will generate a code if its too low .

You also have comunication between control units .. again no codes so im afraid im not convinced its the alternator .

I would be more inclined to think a battery lead or an earth lead if we are tying this hesitation fault into the a/c fault .

just replaceing the voltage reg doesnt prove its an alternator . diode pack for a start is what im thinking , this wont be replaced .. hence a disconnect of the alternator would actually prove its that or not .

Over all .. i have no answers im afraid so you would logically start by ruleing out an alternator fault then move on .

Hopefully im wrong and this is the fault though .
 
I was also thinking positive and negative leads and while I have the alternator off for the regulator I will also be cleaning and checking all the leads, I'm also going to change the bearings in the idler pulleys too while the belt is off, a lot of work to do tomorrow. I did once have an battery earth lead break/corrode and this caused the car not to start, once I fixed (bodged) the lead I was able to drive it although it didn't run well but did get me back to the hotel that night where I did a better fix.

As this seems to be intermittent its not going to be easy to pinpoint, the only thing is it does seem to be getting worse so hopefully it does this when I get the car back to my garage and not fry anything on the 3 mile drive.
 
I managed to get the new regulator fitted to the alternator today and initially I was worried about driving the car beforehand, I didn't get any power surging but the gauge was reading around 14.5 volts, maybe a little high but as it didn't surge I was happy it wasn't doing any further damage. I didn't get chance at the time to put the meter on it but I would have expected just under 16 volts going by what I found below.

When I pulled the regulator the brushes were quite worn but I'm unsure as to what point these become totally worn out.

45828022305_8b45c7949e_z.jpg


I refitted the alternator and started the engine, I think it is better but I didn't have a chance to test drive it. I did let it run up to temperature and was seeing just under 14v on the dash and 15.07 on my meter.

46018919914_29531015a5_z.jpg


46018922374_eeef1c2c26_z.jpg


So when the fans kicked in I had all the lights on full including mains and fogs also had the A/C and heated rear window running too.

It dropped to around 14.5 on my meter and just over 13v on the dash. I had no fluctuating of the lights or the engine stuttering. I'm crossing my fingers that this is cured but as we know things are never that simple.

I did also pull all the positive and negative leads and connections and cleaned them all up, they were all in good condition already and I can't see any corrosion of any of the connections or cables.

One question, where are the diodes located ar they in the regulator or another part of the alternator, just thinking ahead if this didn't cure the voltage surging problem?
 
Depends on the type of alternator Chris, looking at what you have there I would say it is a combined voltage regulator/rectifier(diode) unit, were there any other black plastic modules in the alternator after you took the rear cover off ?
Do you have a photo of the back of your alternator ?
 
Scrub what I just said, they are seperate on Bosch alternators, the rectifier ( diode pack ) should look something like this :


ZDoDwBc.jpg
 
Did the engine surging and the flashing of the A/C unit go away ?
 
kurlykris said:
Did the engine surging and the flashing of the A/C unit go away ?

It did, I think, but as I explained it didn't do it again on the drive to my garage either, (before I fitted it) which was good because it didn't potentially damage anything but bad because it seems to be intermittent and because of that I'm now still unsure if its fixed or not. Although the readings are lower than before and they are more consistent too?

Next question..... where the hell can I buy a rectifier, just searched the net but nothing crops up, apart from a similar part for an Opel??
 
The one in Kris' picture looks similar, the one listed in your link Alex looks totally different even though it says it's for the 996 alternator?

I have the Porsche part number for my alternator 996.603.012.02 and the equivalent Bosch part number being 0124515073 but being unsure of the specification of the rectifier I need to match the above so I think I'll pull the alternator again tomorrow and remove the rectifier to make sure I get the correct part. Again like the regulator there are many parts that are the same or similar and will fit but I want to be 100% for this part.
 
From memory the 996 alternator is more or less identical to one for a VAG 1.9 tdi 150 bhp. The pulley's probably different but I bet electrically they're the same. The regulator I used was a Bosch one for a Skoda. I expect the diode pack is similarly interchangeable. Don't take any of the above as read, but might be a starting point for a search and comparison on eBay?
 
I spent more than an hour trying to match the part numbers with compatible parts and the ones that are supposed to be correct don't match the alternator and the reason I will strip it down again this afto to see what actual part is in there.
 
I removed the alternator again today to get to the rectifier and found it can't be removed with just screws, you need to de-solder the joints around the edge and not wanting to do that without a replacement in hand I put it back together.

46754156811_94d439c7eb_c.jpg


I did find out what the Bosch part number was though. FMOOM133271, there will also be a few compatible parts that will also fit.

31813042907_f4545c5047_c.jpg


I took the car for a 40 miles trip with the lights on and I didn't get the voltage surge or any wavering of the dash lights or gauges, I'm reasonably confident the regulator has sorted this problem out......I think?
 

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