The car had previously had a PSE system installed, but the cable routing wasn't good, it just ran along the floor under the carpet and up to the rear parcel shelf area, then through a grommet above the engine. The correct routing is more down the side of the car. I have to run another cable there anyway so moved them both.
There is a plastic cover on side of the sill which is held in by two screws, a plastic washer, and a push in fitting. When these are removed it just pulls out.
Remove this nut
And these two screws.
Here you can see the cable going through the grommet in to the engine bay.
Cables neatly routed and tied up.
The cover is now back on.
The wiring from the relay carrier board up to the dashboard horseshoe has been passed up behind the dashboard and along the top with the other wiring.
The two relays for the radiator switch are in place, they are the one with the two holes in the top and the one to the left of it.
Just a few wires to tidy up around the back.
I haven't refitted the PSE relay yet as I have to add in the extra two contact to the switch, these are the two which can be seen twisted together.
MC
bakerboy4s Monza
Joined: 06 Jun 2015 Posts: 229 Location: Staffordshire
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 9:13 am Post subject:
Hi MC, tremendous thread, auto electrics totally baffle me!
Horseshoe wiring complete, it might not look like much but this took around 1.5 hours with figuring out exactly which wire goes where and making all of the joints.
MC
MisterCorn Long Beach
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 6613 Location: Nottingham, England
Doors have been removed, I should have done this earlier as it makes access easier.
Undo the T20 screw at the bottom of the electrical connector, then lift the connector up slightly and pull it out of the door frame. Push downwards on the latch at the bottom to release the connector.
Unscrew the door stop strap, unusually this uses an 8mm spline bit.
Then undo the two nuts at the bottoms of the hinges. There are torx bits in the tops of the hinges to stop the hinges rotating, these are super tight to get in to and Porsche have a special tool for it. Fortunately I didn't need it. I expect I will when they are greased before they go back on. 8mm spanner for these.
Then lift the doors off.
I will be stripping the doors when I'm at home over Christmas, should keep me out of mischief. I am replacing them with fibreglass ones but will have these sprayed up as at the same time so that if I ever want to change back I can do very easily. It only takes 5 minutes to take the door off.
MC
Cunno Indianapolis
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 2287 Location: Nottinghamshire
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:06 pm Post subject:
Hi Martin
What's the end goal with this project? Is it a road or track car when you finish? _________________ Porsche is for driving not for washing.
Present Car: 2006 3.6 Porsche GT3 997(White)
Ex: 2006 3.4 Porsche Cayman S (Silver)
Ex: 2001 2.7 Porsche Boxster (Seal Grey)
MisterCorn Long Beach
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 6613 Location: Nottingham, England
Hi Martin
What's the end goal with this project? Is it a road or track car when you finish?
It will be a fast road car which can be used on the track. Hence the options on front cage / door bars and doors. There will be engine and gearbox work done in the future, but first I'm doing the suspension/brakes/interior/bodywork/cooling.
It certainly won't be for long journeys....
Mostly though, it is an excuse to have a really good mess around with a car in the garage and make something unique.
MC
MisterCorn Long Beach
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 6613 Location: Nottingham, England
Some wiring had been added in previously for a hands-free kit, so this has been removed and tidied up:
I also bought a scruffy secondhand handbrake so that I can have one fitted and working for when I have to move the car to the bodyshop. It isn't properly adjusted, but it is working.
MC
MisterCorn Long Beach
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 6613 Location: Nottingham, England
Thanks for the tip, the bottom of the sill on that side needs some repair anyway so will be opened up, but I will bear it in mind.
Front screen out, rear screen just sitting in place, bonnet off.
Some more wiring done, but not finished.
MC
Martin996RSR Spa-Francorchamps
Joined: 08 Dec 2016 Posts: 297
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:21 pm Post subject:
That's a top tip Demort. I can also add that if you do drop any stuff down there that's ferrous, don't forget you may be able to drag it up by using a magnet pulled over the outside skin. (This was a learning point from taking my plane to bits during its latest annual inspection and dropping a pack of drill bits into the flap structure, cos butterfingers, innit.)
Dammit Watkins Glen
Joined: 23 Sep 2016 Posts: 2008
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 6:27 pm Post subject:
It's counter intuitive, but even with steel framed bicycles you can pull a cable through an internal cable-routing with a cloth wrapped magnet on the outside of the tube. Feels exactly like magic the first time you do it, an is why I have a 25kg pull magnet on a bit of conduit (currently holding up a toy from my youth).
Some of the magnets you can buy these days are mega powerful. You can easy trap your fingers with them and cause some skin/flesh damage. _________________ 2000 Manual 996 C4 Arctic Silver Convertible
MisterCorn Long Beach
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 6613 Location: Nottingham, England
Looks good mc. What’s your expected weight loss? Should it make much difference to your suspension set up? I see you have a lot of adjustable arms which look very tasty.
Seems to be a lot going on underneath a 996. I was always keen to refurb the under side of my old p1 but sold it to buy the c2. At some stage I’ll be wanting to do it to the c2 but I’m in no hurry. A lot of your pictures help me gain a perspective with out actually lying on the floor. Goin through the forum I see a lot of ideas which seem to work well. Helps a lot from a new owner angle.
Have you any idea of a finish date in mind?
PeterS Fuji
Joined: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 9264 Location: Solihull
I think PeterS has summed it up nicely....
I want to get it ready to go to the paintshop by around the end of the year, which just means putting the suspension and brakes on and finishing off a few bits of wiring. I will try to retrim the interior parts whilst it is there.
After it has been painted it will take a bit of time to put it back together. I will then run it as it us until the new engine/gearbox are ready.
The paintshop isn't very speedy, if it on the road whilst there is still some decent weather left from the summer I will be happy.
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