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Meet Miss Piggy

ragpicker said:
Cheers chaps.

Tonights little investigation was into the (standard on all used Cayenne's) non-functioning parking sensors. Both front/rear aren't working.

Plugged the reader in and each and every sensor showed a fault. There was also a 'park assist power fault' present. I cleared the codes, put it into reverse and it still doesn't work. This time the only fault left is the 'power' fault.

I'm suspecting a dodgy connection somewhere shorting the whole thing out.

Anyone got any pointers of where to look or where to start?? :?:

mate, did you read my thread where we had the same issues on our parking sensors ? The fronts were fine as it was disconnected at the loom end but the rears had split wires and 3 out of the 6 were broken . In the end we got some spares from germany
 
Great work with the 'Jimi Fix' and thanks for sharing.

There are some very good DIY fixes over on the Rennlist Forum, which even if you have no intention of doing them yourself anymore (like me) make great reading!
 
Ar$e grapes....
:floor:
 
An excellent choice young man :thumb:

Olive green is what we call that colour .. it almost changes colour depending on the light .. i love it .. that or Basault Black .

A few things for your to do list :D

Oil leak .. remove the hose from the bottom of the oil cooler and drain out the oil thats in there .. there may well be quite a bit.

It comes from the Turbo and tends to collect there.

Propshaft .. thats dam clever .. if it lasts then excellent .. if not the cost of propshafts has fallen such that a replacement center bearing is no longer cost effective .. well for garages anyways .

Get the oil and filter changed for the Tip box !!

The front arch liners at the back of the arch .. easiest with front wheels off but can be done in situe .. sooo .. the rear side of the shock and either with a mirror or a screwdriver then see if the original drain bungs are there... you peer behind the arch liner basically.

These are the same as 996/997 next to the battery.

If they are there then flick them out with a screwdriver .. i would expect by now though someone like me has already done it .

Causes no end of issues with water leaks if left in place .

There are also some bungs in the sills both sides .. remove these to make sure theres no water build up then refit .. it gives a sloshing noise if so .

Talking of which (water ).. do this for both drivers and pasenger sides .. i need you to look / feel under the front carpets .. we need to make sure its dry .. big problems if not... remove the side trims to get the carpet up .. pictures in my link.

See here .. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=126518

Also make sure your rear washer jet is working .. and best if you never use it in winter .. theres a connection behind the A pillar o/s/f which can come appart (washer pipe ) and water will go straight into a Control unit .. expensive .

Theres also another connection above the rear interior light that can come disconnected .. water will drip out of that panel if so .

Get a fault code read out of dme and tip please .. let me know any codes .


Parking sensors .. usual problem is either a single sensor or the main plug that connectes the bumper wiring to the car .. for the rear then its on the n/s/r and behind the liner / pu .. you can just about get at it from under the car.

Front and i forget which side but i think its o/s/f and again behind the liner.

Basically unplug and see what condition the pins are.

Id have a good look at the fuses as well .. x2 boards and at each end of the dash.

There are more by the battery..

Aghhh .. a tip .. if you want to get at the battery .. pull the x2 plastic panels out each side of the n/s/f seat at the front.. undo the spline bolts , remove the rear plastic panels over the seat runners and the seat will tilt backwards .

I think that will do for now .. give me a shout if theres any .. er .. Info you need on these :wink:
 
@swisstony - thanks dude, I've seen your thread :thumb:

@DeMort - superb post! Muchas Gracias for all that, I'll be getting on it this weekend. No codes on the DME/TCU other than the parking sensor codes. I'll investigate the connectors first and go from there.

Rear washer works but its a dribble rather than a spray
Not looked at the drain bungs yet, will do
Oil leak, do you mean the intercooler or the oil cooler? It looks like its coming from the n/s intercooler hose when I've had a closer look :?:

I'll do the rest and report back over the w/e :thumb: :worship:
 
Basically remove the hose from the turbo and drain out any oil in there .. its not uncommon to have a fair bit .. you only really have a problem when the oil starts to cover the maf sensor that side. You see that by removeing the Y piece plastic pipe that goes onto the throttle body .

Pictures please of where the leak is if not this .

Edit

i meant intercooler :oops:
 
Brief update with a nod to SwissTony. Not wanting to get rid of the PCM2 to maintain originality I looked at ways to make it modern, to stream music and to be able to use my phone. The usual suspects are Denison and Mobridge but there is a much cheaper alternative - L.A. Power - which is essentially exactly the same. It plugs into the fibre-optic circuit, replacing the CD changer and allowing bluetooth connectivity. You can still use the steering wheel buttons to skip tracks and volume, but not for calls unfortunately.

There's a few bits and bobs in the pack (not my pic)
img_1412_2e61a5297d5abcfa343a84700ed60e1d1170815f.jpg


Removing the PCM unit is dead easy - pry out the silver surround, remove the T20 torx screws and pull the unit out
45522721084_f497d2e462_k.jpg


The FO loop is pre made with 2 male and 1 female connectors. The female goes to the car's FO cable, one male to the PCM and the other to the bluetooth unit. The power cables botch lock into the PCM harness. Red - RED/YELLOW, Black - BROWN
32374920298_a75eddd812_k.jpg


I had a bit of a mare with these so to cut a long story short I replaced them with little bits of chocolate block instead.

Then you need to find somewhere to put the new bluetooth unit. The only place it will live is in the upper dash beneath the steering wheel. Removal of the lower dash isn't difficult but is reasonably involved. Follow Pelican's article for the best instructions https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...val/90-BODY-Lower_Dashboard_Panel_Removal.htm
31307623457_e49746d7f4_k.jpg

45522720274_a2d28a14b3_k.jpg


Then run the mic down the A-pillar trim, connect, replace everything and Bob's yer uncle.
45333706065_55bad1cbb7_k.jpg


I also got the PCM nav disc from ebay yesterday, so now I've also got fully functioning 15 year old Nav to go with my handsfree kit!
32375099958_ea6f05d0a0_k.jpg


Tomorrow I'm investigating parking sensors and intercooler hose oil collection.

:thumb:
 
You have no idea how much scotch locks annoy me .. fair enough though they do the job .. i still hate them .. solder a wire .. sorry .. im old and imperfect ;)

looking forward to the next challenge though :thumb:

Doubt youll need me :(

mutter .. mumble .. heads off to the 996 section .. grumble .. sigh ....
 
Au contraire DeMort! I very nearly emailed you this afternoon! When it came to pushing the PCM unit back in (after everything working) suddenly the head unit went dead. I thought it must be the scotch lock cocking up the power line so took them out, soldered all the wires in but it still didn't work.

At this point I was seeing red so took the solder out and then put the chocolate blocks in because I didn't trust my solder. Still nada. Then it dawned on me to try the fusebox. Sure enough the 10 amp fuse was gone :pc:

This is why I absolutely hate electrickery. Give me a set of spanners anyday!
 
Wiring can be a pain but a solder joint is always perfect .. it may not look pretty but it does the job far better than a scotch lock .. use the iron under the wire .. melt solder onto it then move the solder above the wire ..

Solder under the wire creates a larger heat pool of metal basically .. the solder will very quickly be sucked into the wire and you then solder from above .. best explaination i can give .

Im afraid as i always tell my collegues .. if you have a fault then start at the basics .. fuse being the main one .. you have no idea the amount of times ive followed a test plan for 30 mins only to have it then say check this fuse .. at that point im like .. DOH !!! and its always the fuse has blown.. very easy to do when you mess with wiring and very easy to miss the basics .. hell i do it on a regular basis !

Spanner work is easy .. wiring is fun :D
 
I saw a facelift model today next to the boat and it looked really nice. So i started looking at them online!

Dare I ask what the fuel use is like?
 
Great write up there mate on the LA Power. It is a good product for the price compared to the alternatives :thumb:

Once you get to the PDC, your mileage may vary depending on your issue compared to us however if you get to the point where you have power ( as in your get two green lights on forward or reverse) then you are getting somewhere. Our issue was the front loom/connector was disconnected and never put back after the bumper job someone had done. That connector is located drivers side and is close to the right indicator that is in the wheel arch .That then runs all along the front bumper to the passenger side.
The rear was slightly different as it was connected but still two green lights. So when I took off the rear bumper and cleaned it all up, I found a small break in the wiring loom near the connector. So heat shrink a few new cables onto it and then wrapped it all up tightly so no strain on it.
That fixed some of the problems but still three did not work ( you can hear a faint clicking sound if you put your ear close to the sensor)
So I bought some from germany , any VW touareg ones will do
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-PDC...Touran-Seat-/273294813588?hash=item3fa1a3e994

I bought 6 so I have spares

Good luck :thumb:
 
@swisstony - thanks pal, very useful! Will report back.

@isysman - errm.... :oops: You get high 20's cruising on the motorway and 7-9mpg around town. I'm currently getting a combined 16.1mpg. If you get it into triple digit speeds on boost for any length of time you literally can see the fuel gauge moving.

Well worth it though!

:thumb:
 
Investigated the oil leak on n/s. As DeMort predicted it was the lower intercooler pipe. The engine vents oil into the ic pipework as part of an emissions reduction, it collects in this particular pipe and eventually builds up enough to blow past the pipe seals and over the components in this area.

To get to the pipe, its wheel off, front half of the liner off, small bit of under tray and loosen the larger front under tray. Takes about 20 minutes to get to it if you're taking your time.

Some big-a$$ callipers
32386432178_0f5a05ea97_k.jpg


Here you can see the pipe with the connections arrowed. I undid the bottom one (just out of shot)
46258453101_6c7bbb2c75_k.jpg


and poured about a cupful of oil out! This was about half of it:
32386448918_6432086acb_k.jpg


Then I cleaned the whole area down with brake cleaner and buttoned it back up.

I'm dead chuffed with the underside of this car after having a look around. Considering its age I've yet to find any rot. All the components, control arms etc are still in decent nick. Credit to its former owners I think.

I had a look at the parking sensors. The connections appear ok but the rear sensors above the exhaust tips were covered in a foot of crap. I haven't taken the bumpers off yet but I got rid of the crud (much of which fell on me and in my mouth :frustrated: ) and have ordered some new sensors (again, thanks swisstony!). Once they arrive I'll take both bumpers off and properly sort it.

All for now.
 

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