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Speaker upgrade

Now that's a good question.

There are six inputs on the amp, and obviously six outputs.

I had assumed that I'd be able to use four inputs (which is what I have, discounting the sub) to drive the six channels. The existing system does this.

I was going to set the channels for the doors to be low frequency and the channels for the front and rear speakers to be higher frequency.

Re-examining this, I may not be able to do this, of course- if amp requires a more one-in/one-out approach.

Time to read the manual!
 
"If you wish to feed all six channels by using
only four channels of input, set the 'Input
Mode" switch in the to '4 Ch." and use only
the inputs to channels 1, 2, 3 & 4. In this mode,
channels 5 & 6 will operate with a sum of the 1 &
3 and 2 & 4 input signals, respectively"

So channels 5&6 would be the woofers, I'd say.
 
That's brilliant! The amp will do all the hard work for you!
You can adjust the amp EQ to suit on channels 5 & 6

How much was it? I can only find it for quite a bit more than a pair of those Pioneers! :dont know:
 
Perfect example of man-maths :floor:

But the JL is vastly superior, and was still a bargain :thumb:
 
32321367208_ba5b699f8a_b.jpg
 
That's the back of the plug in the scrap amp I bought, I'm debating whether to cut through the PCB to leave a narrow strip with the plugs on and solder onto the pads on the reverse, or cut the pins from the board and bend them up, then attach the wires too them - unsure whether crimping or soldering would be better here, as I'm hugely ignorant in these matters.
 
Here's the small connector: https://uk.farnell.com/amp-te-connectivity/1-963539-1/rectangular-conn-hdr-r-a-18pos/dp/2575729

Unfortunately I could not find a connector-to-cable version, but I can solder onto the pins I think, once I bend them up.

The Porsche amp shares the same plug as the Logic 7/Harmonn Kardon systems used in a large number of BMW's, which means (I hope!) that I can use this harness, designed to replace the factory amp in a BMW: https://technicpnp.com/product/logi...hardware-kit-for-most-converter-applications/

I thought I'd get these as, being new to these things, I'd likely melt the connectors on the board, now that doesn't matter.
 
This is what I think is in the small plug:

Pin 2 Rear Right -, Brown/blue (0.35mm2)
Pin 10 Rear Right +, Red/black (0.35mm2)
Pin 3 Rear Left -, Brown/yellow (0.35mm2)
Pin 11 Rear Left +, Yellow/red (0.35mm2)
Pin 4 Front Right -,Brown/violet (0.35mm2)
Pin 12 Front Right +,Violet/red (0.35mm2)
Pin 5 Front Left -, Brown/green (0.35mm2)
Pin 13 Front Left+, Green/Red (0.35mm2)
Pin 15 Tel-mute, Yellow/black (0.35mm2)
Pin 16 Speed signal, Green/pink (0.35mm2)
Pin 7 12v+ switched, Black/red (0.5mm2)
 
How are you getting on with the connectors? Much chin scratching and questioning the worthiness of the amount of faff involved? :-D
 
Not yet!

Connecting the amp to the battery - I need terminal connectors, the wire, and an inline fuse. What size terminal connectors do I need?
 
Can't remember, sorry.. They were yellow? Does that help? :-D
 
I bought mine with loads of Hertz components. Sounds good though. These are behind the seats.

2n00tjd.jpg


vx0tu.jpg
 
Sadly I've got spring loaded roll-over/roll-hoops behind the seats that (I'm guessing here) would be upset about sharing the same space as some speakers.

In related news, I put the 100.3's in today and, frankly, can't tell the difference between them and the Nokia's.
 
Dammit said:
In related news, I put the 100.3's in today and, frankly, can't tell the difference between them and the Nokia's.

No.... seriously? :nooo: That's gotta hertz...

There must be some difference, surely? Maybe not night and day... but some clarity at least? Do you still have the stock head unit?
is the new amp in yet?
 

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