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Speaker upgrade

Trying to gather information in one place.

Two plugs that go into the Nokia amp, large blue plug and small black plug as so:

43995757640_7d1371bb69_b.jpg


And in the large blue plug I believe we have:

Pin #10 - yellow - (left dash +)
Pin # 20 - yellow brown - (left dash -)
Pin # 9 - red - (right dash +)
Pin #19 - red brown - (right dash -)
Pin #18 - Green - (left door +)
Pin #8 - Green Brown -( left door -)
Pin #17 - Purple - (right door +)
Pin #7 - Purple Brown - (right door -)
Pin#16 - White Brown (Rear Left - )
Pin#6 - White (Rear Left + )
Pin#15 - Blue Brown (Rear Right - )
Pin#5 - Blue (Rear Right +)

Pin # 2 - RED BLUE - Power
Pin #1 - BROWN - Earth or Ground

With the pins in this arrangement:

834980325208_0_ALB.jpg


31255896807_af7144441d_b.jpg


Which suggests that the inputs are in the small black plug.
 
And based on what Halcyon said, we're likely to have 5 wires (four live, one shared ground) in the small black plug, leaving us needing to run three more grounds to make up each pair correctly.

Have I understood this correctly Halcyon?
 
Hi Neil,
I retrofitted cruise and the extra pins I needed for that were simply pushed in. They had a small tang that can be pushed in to remove them.
 
Halcyon said:
eabeukes said:
Halcyon - did you cut the speaker harness or buy an adapter?
Click to expand...

Installed a new speaker loom. Necessitated by the common ground system used by Porsche. But spliced back into the original loom, post the amp in the frunk as that's all "normal" wiring.
Click to expand...

Coming back to this again, is what you are talking about represented on this diagram in the section between the radio and the amp, where on the left hand of the connecting wires we see one ground being used to create four?

2001CarerraWiring_zps169e883d.jpg
 
At the top left of the amplifier you will see that there are four connections, RR-, RL-, FR- and FL-. These are the four - outputs from the amplifier. As stated they all connect together at ground point 157, and to the - connection on the stereo.
I suspect that these are the inputs to the amplifier, connectes this way as the stereo has a common ground. Are you changing the stereo for one which doesn't have a common ground on the speaker outputs?
It looks to me that the outputs are at the bottom of the diagram. How are these wired?

MC
 
I called JL Audio this morning, as I was going round in circles on this.

Q - Will signal quality suffer if the line-out signals share a common ground?
A - No

Q - Is it better to use line-out or speaker-out?
A - Speaker out for preference as the higher input voltage is better for the amp

Q - Any caveats?
A - Maximum input voltage on the speaker-in for the JL amp is 8v, so if the speaker-out is above that, no-go
 
I'm going to stick with line-out as:

a) They're already there
b) The Becker is 4x18w RMS, which (a friend informs me) is 8.49v

Which means that what I need to do, I believe, is build a small harness that goes from the plugs on the factory wiring in the boot to the amp.
 
looks like you need a bigger car...... :floor:
 
It is quite heavy, but I have a separate project that should take care of power-to-weight concerns.

This unit was discounted quite heavily - pretty close to the cost of two of the pioneer units recommended earlier, and I think that using a single unit has to be more efficient.

It is, of course, massively over-specified for my application, but that's part of the fun.

I've ordered an old Nokia amp from a breaker, I'll pull the connectors out of that and will create a harness that runs from the chassis wiring, via the new connectors to the amp, so no new cables (hopefully!) required, and no cutting/messing around with the existing cables.

I'll end up with the 600/6v2 running 4 Hertz DCX 100.3's and two Hertz 130.5's, I'll take stock at that point and work out if I think the system needs a sub.

Means I need to pull the door cards off and work out how to mount the 130.5's where the 2 ohm Nokia woofers are.
 
Dammit said:
Q - Is it better to use line-out or speaker-out?
A - Speaker out for preference as the higher input voltage is better for the amp
Click to expand...

wow! Lot's has happened! I turn my back for two minutes and now look what you've done!! :hand:

First off, that answer from JBL is inaccurate! Speaker level inputs will have added inherent distortion from the head-unit's own amp. if you like your music with added 5% THD then you probably like very heavy metal! :p

Anyhoo!!

Common Ground:
The reason i didn't use a common ground is because:
I lost fader & balance. Simple as that!
After checking my Pioneer manual, it does actually say about not using common ground, so I didn't.
Your mileage may differ in your installation.

Keeping the socket:
I did consider this: but after much thought, I decided to cut the wires.
One: the amp-side socket - once you remove that from the amp, you have no shroud, no cable management - so nothing to secure the cables and make them look tidy.
Two: Do you need to disconnect / reconnect the speaker wires? If you don't (and you don't! lol) Then you're better off cutting, extending, soldering, heat-wrapping etc to the new amp location. If you must have a connector - use a SCART male & female connector. That'll give you the cable management & neatness as well as having plenty of capacity, pin-wise.

Door speakers:
The OEM ones are actually pretty good quality and they are retained in my set up. BUT - i use them as bass / woofers, NOT subs.
Because once you get them down to sub levels, your door and everything around it will buzz and rattle and drive you insane!! The speakers can get low and dirty, but their environment can't.. at least, in my experience.
You'll need to do some cutting to get the larger Hertz into the doors (Door card removal is pretty straight forward)
This is what the enclosure looks like:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ak7OTAfmTrHxxEhFAVgg9ARV6sML
(I can't post images.. rubbish, i know)
And this is the back of the speaker - it has a substantial magnet
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ak7OTAfmTrHxxEDgTIeKAaY_m9rF
Either way, the Hertz will be better quality as "Speakers" but the aren't subs, so don't drive then as subs :)

How / where are you going to fit that new amp?
:worship:
 
I'm intending on putting the amp where the CD player used to be as it's roughly the same size. I was going to re-purpose the CD player bracket.

The door speakers I was going to drive as woofers rather than subs, as that is what they are designed for - I don't want to shake the doors off as you say.
 
I keep an oil container in that space - but it would be perfect for the amp.

How are you going to drive the door speakers from the amp? As in, what channel are you going to use? Front, rear or sub?

you could use the line-out rear for the doors and use the amp's EQ to only put out lower frequencies, then use the speaker level input on channels 5 & 6 to drive the actual rear speakers?

Or another way entirely? :?:
 
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