Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Replacement OEM engine mounts - suggestions please

CB911

Member
Joined
5 Jul 2018
Messages
21
Hi all,

I am looking to replace the original engine mounts on my 98, C2, after 20 years and nearly 70k miles they have seen better days. I am also getting a shaking passenger seat at idle.

I have done some research into aftermarket semi-solid options etc, but have decided to keep it OEM. I know genuine Porsche supplied mounts aren't cheap, so I have been looking for a good quality OEM equivalent. I see Design 911 sell an 'aftermarket brand' a pair is £309.00 inc. VAT & delivery.

Any pointers about where to look for cheaper options whilst still getting a decent brand? I am keen to avoid cheap and poor quality aftermarket options, but equally I want to ensure I get best value.

I will also start a thread to properly introduce myself and my car.

Many thanks.
 
I understand Hartech sell reconditioned OE ones. I feel drawn to the RSS ones as they are shiny and offer something different, but a bit concerned about buzz in the cabin.

On my list for the winter months... I've watched a few YouTube videos and it looks straightforward. What could possibly go wrong :eek: :pc:

Good advice I read is to soak the bolts in penetrating oil some time before getting started, and undo both underside bolts a bit before bothering to start on the airbox etc to access the bolts in the engine bay, just in case you fall at the first hurdle!
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I will do some more research. I have looked at the RS option, but wasn't sure whether they would be too firm?

Type 911 also appear to sell an OEM equivalent standard mount, with VAT and delivery they are slightly less than Design911 option.
 
Robertb said:
I understand Hartech sell reconditioned OE ones. I feel drawn to the RSS ones as they are shiny and offer something different, but a bit concerned about buzz in the cabin.

On my list for the winter months... I've watched a few YouTube videos and it looks straightforward. What could possibly go wrong :eek: :pc:

Good advice I read is to soak the bolts in penetrating oil some time before getting started, and undo both underside bolts a bit before bothering to start on the airbox etc to access the bolts in the engine bay, just in case you fall at the first hurdle!

Cheers - I am also tempted to try and DIY mine... was planning a YouTube binge tonight to see how easy it is... famous last words!
 
It looks like a satisfying and reasonably easy DIY.

This was a good video... for us mortals without fancy ramps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xasJfUrj7EE

And this one as he's very thorough, and shows various pitfalls, inc damaging a clip holding a wire in when dropping the engine. Also has torque settings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FihC3q8jEhY

Good tip too to tape over the air intake when the airbox removed... knowing my luck I'd drop a bolt down there!

My main worry is what happens if the engine tilts over slightly when the bolts are undone. I'm guessing you need a couple of jacks to hand.
 
I did mine a few weeks ago, I used the non-OE RS mounts from Type911. Took about 45 minutes and could easily be done quicker second time around.

Definitely use the penetrating spray before you start the whole job, you can then grab a cup of tea.

Make sure you have a socket extension of the right length to clear the rear bumper (but not hit the ground) and a good length breaker bar. I made sure both sides had 'cracked' before jacking up the engine, didn't want to get halfway through and find I could only do one side.

You can tell you have jacked the engine up enough because a) the exhaust tips move up closer to the bumper and b) the tips don't drop as you undo the nut.

I did one side at a time so that it was always at least partially attached (not sure if would have made any difference if the jack had let go!

It really was easy once the nuts had started to move. The only annoying thing for me was realising that the exhaust tips must have been adjusted at some point after there was already some droop (maybe when PSE boxes were retrofitted). So, when I got everything tightened up I still had wonky tips - a job for another weekend!

Really pleased with the change to the car handling, a touch more NVH coming through into the car, although most of that has gone now that I have sorted out a few rattles that made themselves more obvious/buzzy! Also think it may have improved with a few miles (or of course my ears are now immune to it!).
 
How does it work if you buy something imported from the US via US Amazon... does it get held at Customs til you pay the duty and VAT? Is it a faff?
 
With Amazon you pay the duty up front so no customs surprises. With postage and customs fees they were still the cheapest.
 
I'd check OPC prices first before going aftermarket, esp. If your concerned about nhv.
 
Original Porsche RS mounts are excellent, firm but not overly firm and easy to fit.

Standard 996 mounts are a 993 part, the RS mounts were fitted to the 993RS and many of the aftermarket items, RSS as an example, are based on the Porsche items.
 
The Rein versions are re-boxed OEM and made in Czech Republic. I installed them last month. Search my post. No NVH issues.
 
Another Rein user here.
I hate unwanted noise and buzzing so why try and reinvent the wheel.

Just my 2p though and I appreciate some lads track theirs. :thumb:
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,354
Messages
1,439,461
Members
48,713
Latest member
3sp1f8
Back
Top