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2001 C4 project car

Powerflex gearbox mount fitted before I refit the plate on the bottom of the gearbox.



MC
 
It has been converted to 2wd. This has been done by removing the propshaft/front diff and driveshafts. I could have chopped the ends off the driveshafts and used those for the ABS sensor wheel but I have changed to using C2 uprights and stubs so that I can run the GT3 type suspension which is not compatible with the 4wd cars due to the odd angle the shock absorbers have to take to avoid the driveshaft. There is still the output flange on the rear of the gearbox but this will just spin around and won't be an issue. I went this route as the GT3 was based on the C4 chassis as apparently it was stronger. Whether or not there is any truth in the chassis strength thing I don't know.

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
Whether or not there is any truth in the chassis strength thing I don't know.

MC

The chassis is stiffer because of the extra front bulkhead and sheet metal around the front diff area.
 
Griffter said:
The chassis is stiffer because of the extra front bulkhead and sheet metal around the front diff area.

That's good to know, I suspect that welding/bolting a cage in will make more of a difference though.
I wasn't set on getting a C4, I wasn't set on buying a car at all.... But a C4 was cheaper than a C2, and by the time the spare parts are taken off and sold it makes it cheaper still.

Handbrake mechanism refitted using the manual pictures as a guide to where everything goes, including the retaining spring clips pointing upwards. I can imagine that being a likely fault of handbrakes not working properly if put on the wrong way around. A little bit of copper grease on the moving parts. There is no lever in the car at the moment and with new cables everything is moving very freely so no chance of adjusting anything as the spring on the cable just pushes back on everything.





I will probably hold off fitting the disks and calipers until the suspension is properly fitted as it will give easier access to torque up all of the outer bolts which are just sitting in place in case they need to come out to fit the shock absorbers.

Chassis cross brace and gearbox mount support also fitted after cleaning and painting.





MC
 
I'm sure the stronger front bulkhead and a cage will stiffen it up nicely. My car creaks when parking unevenly on a kerb due to stiff suspension and a floppy monocoque.
I think that once the kids are grown up I'm going to put in a roll cage with the strips of metal with lightening holes in, welded to the A and B pillars, and then get it upholstered and nicely padded so I don't put dents in my head with it when i crash.
 
With the rear toe arms not yet fitted there appears to be plenty of space to get the new shock absorbers and springs in so I decided to go ahead and torque up the top arms and make sure that the disks and calipers all fit OK and pipes line up. Looking good so far.







I'm pretty much stuck on the suspension and brakes now until the shocks and springs arrive, hopefully next week.

These are 997 GT3 350mm rear disks running with 996 Turbo rear calipers and 10mm custom spacers and longer bolts. The turbo calipers are required rather than the standard calipers due to the wider disks. Standard 996 turbo brake pipe bracket and short fixed pipe are used.

The larger disks are required to compensate for the larger front disks and increased pad area. I'll post up all the sums at a later date.

MC
 
Want!
 
New Behr/Hello condenser fitted. I did try a pattern part which was a bit cheaper, since they are pretty much consumables, but it didn't fit. In the end I got this from Autodoc which was only slightly more expensive.



MC
 
Moving on to the interior for a while. The seats and steering wheel are already out, as is the handbrake. Next jobs are to remove the main carpet and dashboard. I have a GT3 RS carpet to be fitted and the dashboard is going to be retrimmed. This is how it looks now......



Removing the gear shift mechanism involves pushing up the cable locking tabs out of the way and then noting the locations of the cables for fitment later.



The rear parts of the cables are held in place by metal clips. Prise them off and then push the two plastic tongues together, the cables then lift out.




Undo the four nuts and the mechanism lifts out.

The gear mechanism will be modified to fit an Alex Yates quickshift which I already have.

Next the two trim pieces at the bottom of the door apertures. The passenger side one requires the rubber to be lifted, two torx bolts to be removed and then lift it upwards to release the clips.


The drivers side one has two plastic overs which are prised off.


Then use a 5mm allen key to undo, but not remove, the screws. The bolts are pretty deep so you can't do this with a 5mm bit on a screwdriver or 3/8" ratchet.


Then lift it up and remove the two switch contacts, or the cables on an earlier car.


Under the passenger side footwell is a stiff foam cover held in place by two large headed plastic screws. After removing the screws this comes out. Partially removed here.


Front seat belts were removed by undoing the 17mm bolts and taking them out. I'm in two minds as to whether or not to refit them since I will have a harness fitted. Opinions welcomed.

MC
 
Unbelievable job :thumb: I was just thinking perhaps as you soon finish this amazing build to keep us entertaining with your set of skills I'm keen to drop my C4S for small makeover. :grin:
 
77szymon said:
Unbelievable job :thumb: I was just thinking perhaps as you soon finish this amazing build to keep us entertaining with your set of skills I'm keen to drop my C4S for small makeover. :grin:

Much as I would like to, I have the following lined up.

560SEC Service, change electric aerial, fix squeeky heater motor, change air con compressor. Underseal/cavity wax injection.

300SL Service, clean engine bay, change front wheel bearings, fix cigarette lighter socket. Wax cavity injection.

M3 CSL Drop rear subframe and change diff oil seals, new diff oil, change CPV. Clean underneath and underseal/cavity injection

Not to mention the fact that I share the garage with my business partner and he might need to change brake pads or something :dont know:

MC
 
Remove the fuse box cover by undoing these four screws.



Remove the dead pedal. This one has been damaged so I'll have to source another one when I screw it back together.



Remove the accelerator pedal by undoing the single screw at the back, then lifting it up about 1/2" at the rear and sliding backwards.


It is held in place by this piece of plastic at the bottom. It comes out easily with the right technique.


Here is the full carpet, compared with the new GT3 RS carpet




The new carpet ha holes in it for the front cage, I'll see if they are I the right place or not. Interior starting to look empty.



MC
 
Moving on to removing the dashboard. First job is to remove the passenger airbag. The battery has been disconnected for about 5 months, so no worries there. Underneath the dashboard is a plastic air pipe. These can be pretty stiff, but it just pushes to the left to release the end and then pulls out. I really hate working under dashboards. Having removed the carpet and most of the trim just makes it worse with the sharp edges on everything.






When that is removed there are two 13mm bolts which are removed from above where the ducting was, the airbag then lifts forwards and out. Undo the connector.








The alarm sensor cover is next. The last time I removed one of these I broke the tabs on it, so I was careful to push it further in on the sides this time using an adjustable pliers and a glove to protect the surface. When it was off I noticed that the cover design was different from the earlier one anyway, I think these are probably more robust.





The sensor can be removed and unplugged.



The two air vent trims are removed with a trim removal tool. Once the inside edge gets started them come off relatively easily.







I removed the housing for the alarm sensor and GPS antenna after the trim pieces, just a couple of torx screws. It would be easier to get the vents out if this is removed first (as it tells you to do in the instructions...)

MC
 

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