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Boxster Newbie
- Thread starter ½cwt
- Start date
OK, pictures of a couple of the old cars on The 'Ring, oh and yes it is a genuine 427 Cobra behind me in the Carlton GSi... and a very bent PalmerSport 996 (not my doing...!) this one was rebuilt; the other one involved was a complete right off as it was hit midships and was further damaged in the rescue. No injuries though other than whiplash and pride.
Attachments
And the reason I got this thread going.
Took it out for a run on some more familiar roads. Could get into all sorts of details handling matters - oh go on then.
Nice to feel a more gentle front weight transfer on turn in and then the loading up of the outside rear as you apply power after the apex starting the push you straight. Very precise steering (getting used to more weight in it now) that gives feedback ont eh front contact patch that isn't contaminated by driving forces, only the cornering feel. Haven't had this since the Carlton pictured above but even that had a cast iron block in the nose and a longer wheelbase so less responsive (LSD did make it a laugh on tract, Melbourne Hairpin exit at Donington in particular.. ). Going to take a bit of time to have confidence in getting close to the limit and tehn knowing what response and being pretty quick with it given the compact centre of mass and short wheelbase. Nice to have a transmission that responds well to heel toe changes, with the added bonus of a flat 6 sound track. That said slower changes are not recommended very baulky if the revs drop off. Just a reminder to all of you who may have been doing it for months or years what it feels like early on in the Boxster experience.
I guess its going to cost me a lot in fuel because as with the Carlton's variable intakes and the Subaru turbos, the engine noise is getting addictive and the steps around 3300 and then above 4000 in power delivery.
Am I boring you yet?
Anyway what you've been asking for: here's what all the fuss is about. A couple of pics from the dealer's advert on Autotrader that he passed on to me so no copyright alarms....
Took it out for a run on some more familiar roads. Could get into all sorts of details handling matters - oh go on then.
Nice to feel a more gentle front weight transfer on turn in and then the loading up of the outside rear as you apply power after the apex starting the push you straight. Very precise steering (getting used to more weight in it now) that gives feedback ont eh front contact patch that isn't contaminated by driving forces, only the cornering feel. Haven't had this since the Carlton pictured above but even that had a cast iron block in the nose and a longer wheelbase so less responsive (LSD did make it a laugh on tract, Melbourne Hairpin exit at Donington in particular.. ). Going to take a bit of time to have confidence in getting close to the limit and tehn knowing what response and being pretty quick with it given the compact centre of mass and short wheelbase. Nice to have a transmission that responds well to heel toe changes, with the added bonus of a flat 6 sound track. That said slower changes are not recommended very baulky if the revs drop off. Just a reminder to all of you who may have been doing it for months or years what it feels like early on in the Boxster experience.I guess its going to cost me a lot in fuel because as with the Carlton's variable intakes and the Subaru turbos, the engine noise is getting addictive and the steps around 3300 and then above 4000 in power delivery.
Am I boring you yet?
Anyway what you've been asking for: here's what all the fuss is about. A couple of pics from the dealer's advert on Autotrader that he passed on to me so no copyright alarms....
Attachments
½cwt said:
Not at all! :grin:
Were you based at Bedford when you worked at Palmer's :dont know:
We need to do a local meet up, if you're into Fords then the Northants Ford RS owners club are having their annual show this Sunday, maybe worth a peek :thumb:
I was stores manager at Bedford from 2004 to 2007 supporting both the corporate fleet and Formula Palmer Audi race team fleet. Main task was to update from paper based system logged in the database one a week to a live stock and re-order system. I was only taken on for 'about a year' originally to do the systems changes but I was enjoying it and the didn't ask me to go after 12 months so I stayed until they remembered it was just and interim job for the development and implementation of the new system.
I'm not a great fast Ford fan but do have some attraction. The more anonymous early cars I referred to included a Mk2 Fiesta 1400S and a Mk3 1600S but never an RS. As an aside, my first every paid work was a summer job at the Cosworth road engine assembly facility in Wellingborough for 5 weeks in 1985. I just wrote to them and asked saying I was looking into an engineering career, they interviewed me and gave me the job for work experience! Doubt it would happen now.
Also in my time as a rally navigator I've competed in both Sapphire and Escort RS Cosworths. The owner of the Escort even let me drive it on the test stage before one event. Awsome!
I'm not a great fast Ford fan but do have some attraction. The more anonymous early cars I referred to included a Mk2 Fiesta 1400S and a Mk3 1600S but never an RS. As an aside, my first every paid work was a summer job at the Cosworth road engine assembly facility in Wellingborough for 5 weeks in 1985. I just wrote to them and asked saying I was looking into an engineering career, they interviewed me and gave me the job for work experience! Doubt it would happen now.
Also in my time as a rally navigator I've competed in both Sapphire and Escort RS Cosworths. The owner of the Escort even let me drive it on the test stage before one event. Awsome!
½cwt said:Also in my time as a rally navigator I've competed in both Sapphire and Escort RS Cosworths. The owner of the Escort even let me drive it on the test stage before one event. Awsome!
We may have crossed paths before then
I'm in Ravensden, we used to run the shop. Uncle still runs the garage :thumbs:
You may recognise the area, but here is my other car which I just pushed out of the garage after 4ish years to give her a clean :grin:
:thumb:
Had the Boxster S for a month now and have ordered various parts from Design 911 to fix some of the niggles. AC not working confirmed as a rotted our left had condenser and I also got a whole dust pan full of crud out of both left and right cooling ducts and rads. Obviously not been done in a while. Ordered the whole set of 2 condensers, drier and seals as a kit(on off at Design911) so it is all new once fitted, and I'll hopefully have one spare old condenser in case of future issues if it doesn't leak. Are there any after market wire grilles out there to help stop straw, grass and twigs etc?
Whilst investigating the u/s reversing lights I found that all 4 CV boot were split or perished. Started on these this weekend and have found, unlike the advice on line, that on the driver's side (RHD car) at least you can get the CV joint off the inner end without undoing any suspension ball joints or dropping the exhaust manifold; just jack up the upright to compress the suspension and the inboard end of the shaft will drop enough for the CV joint to clear the drive flange and transmission case so you can drift it off with the shaft in situ. I'll find out about the other side next weekend... but apparently it is less spacious from the bit of info I've gathered.
Back to the reversing light switch, this is on the tail of the gearbox near the top on the right hand side. No online images show this position. Still a relatively easy fix as I was able to get a 19m deep socket on a wobble extension over the switch assembly and the whole ratchet handle in there without taking anything off except the wheel. The electrical connector is a bit fiddly however. First job sorted. :thumb:
The cover for the clear wind deflector panel didn't come with the car so my wife has made me one up in brushed black cotton with a draw string and even added a Porsche sew on badge to the bag. This will protect it nicely in the slot in the rear stowage on the rear shelf.
Whilst investigating the u/s reversing lights I found that all 4 CV boot were split or perished. Started on these this weekend and have found, unlike the advice on line, that on the driver's side (RHD car) at least you can get the CV joint off the inner end without undoing any suspension ball joints or dropping the exhaust manifold; just jack up the upright to compress the suspension and the inboard end of the shaft will drop enough for the CV joint to clear the drive flange and transmission case so you can drift it off with the shaft in situ. I'll find out about the other side next weekend... but apparently it is less spacious from the bit of info I've gathered.
Back to the reversing light switch, this is on the tail of the gearbox near the top on the right hand side. No online images show this position. Still a relatively easy fix as I was able to get a 19m deep socket on a wobble extension over the switch assembly and the whole ratchet handle in there without taking anything off except the wheel. The electrical connector is a bit fiddly however. First job sorted. :thumb:
The cover for the clear wind deflector panel didn't come with the car so my wife has made me one up in brushed black cotton with a draw string and even added a Porsche sew on badge to the bag. This will protect it nicely in the slot in the rear stowage on the rear shelf.
To protect the new condensers from leaves/twigs/fag butts, options are:
Zunsport (overpriced), speak to DW performance in Wellingborough for their similar (but better looking) solution, or DIY with some black mesh while the bumper is off.
have a look in the boyracer section of Halfords, as they might have mesh grills to use as donors.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/c...tyling/simply-black-aluminium-mesh-1m-x-0-25m
Secure with drilled holes and cable ties.
Zunsport (overpriced), speak to DW performance in Wellingborough for their similar (but better looking) solution, or DIY with some black mesh while the bumper is off.
have a look in the boyracer section of Halfords, as they might have mesh grills to use as donors.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/c...tyling/simply-black-aluminium-mesh-1m-x-0-25m
Secure with drilled holes and cable ties.
OK, this is either 'Legend' or 'lunatic'. CV boot replacement.
Not being one for believeing everything ont eh internet I set about changing the 4 CV boots on the Boxter S. Right hand side went pretty well albeit slow as it was the first time tackling this on this type of car. Only real issue was that the inboard CV was quite tight ont eh shaft and needed a lot of persuasion to slide off. Unlike the write ups it IS possible to do this without dropping the manifold or disconnecting any of the suspension except the anti-roll bar. There is enough space to remove the CV joint by playing with a jack under the hub raising and lowering it to get different angles of tilt. Only problem I had was I put the centre back onto the shaft with the undercut splines at the gearbox inner end so had knocked it on pretty hard whist trying to get the circlip on. This took a LOT of persuasion to come off using the flat end of a broken screwdriver shaft which just happened to have a slight curve in it also to make it easier ...(!) as the drifter. Right side all done.
Full of confidence and possibly a bit of arrogance I started teh left side. Now the gearbox has the diff crown wheel this side so the shaft is shorter antherefore there is a bit less space. All was going well until I really could not get the whole CV off. The inner cover that the boot fits to was too stuck in place to be able to get it off and so I couldn't get the tilt on the CV to get it out but I could get the centre, the race and the ball bearing out taking it apart on the shaft. I did dissconncet the track control arm and the training link to get a bit of movement for the hub but still not enough clearance. Here's the madness bit. What if a CV boot would go through the centre of the CV outer? Well, the GKN CV boot kits I got with a bit of persuaion did just that! I can't beleive I got away with this. So cutting the old boots off with snips, the new boots could be fitted with the clips having to be opened up to go over the shaft rather than slid on. Using lots of brake cleaner I cleand up everything around the CV to minimise any grit transfer and with difficulty rebuilt the CV onto the shaft in situ.
All this was done with axle stands only on the drive, no ramp.
Job 2 done :thumb:
3 notes - I don't have anything that could have cracked off the hub nut and 2 the exhaust manifold bolts are VERY corroded so didn't want to risk undoing these and round off or breaking one. I also dont have a joint splitter that would separate the bottom hub ball joint.
One thing; please don't ask me how long it took. 10 hours in a garage might be worth it unles you are up for a real challenge. I probably wont' do it this way again!
Next job AC condensers; hopefully a little more staight forward.
Not being one for believeing everything ont eh internet I set about changing the 4 CV boots on the Boxter S. Right hand side went pretty well albeit slow as it was the first time tackling this on this type of car. Only real issue was that the inboard CV was quite tight ont eh shaft and needed a lot of persuasion to slide off. Unlike the write ups it IS possible to do this without dropping the manifold or disconnecting any of the suspension except the anti-roll bar. There is enough space to remove the CV joint by playing with a jack under the hub raising and lowering it to get different angles of tilt. Only problem I had was I put the centre back onto the shaft with the undercut splines at the gearbox inner end so had knocked it on pretty hard whist trying to get the circlip on. This took a LOT of persuasion to come off using the flat end of a broken screwdriver shaft which just happened to have a slight curve in it also to make it easier ...(!) as the drifter. Right side all done.
Full of confidence and possibly a bit of arrogance I started teh left side. Now the gearbox has the diff crown wheel this side so the shaft is shorter antherefore there is a bit less space. All was going well until I really could not get the whole CV off. The inner cover that the boot fits to was too stuck in place to be able to get it off and so I couldn't get the tilt on the CV to get it out but I could get the centre, the race and the ball bearing out taking it apart on the shaft. I did dissconncet the track control arm and the training link to get a bit of movement for the hub but still not enough clearance. Here's the madness bit. What if a CV boot would go through the centre of the CV outer? Well, the GKN CV boot kits I got with a bit of persuaion did just that! I can't beleive I got away with this. So cutting the old boots off with snips, the new boots could be fitted with the clips having to be opened up to go over the shaft rather than slid on. Using lots of brake cleaner I cleand up everything around the CV to minimise any grit transfer and with difficulty rebuilt the CV onto the shaft in situ.
All this was done with axle stands only on the drive, no ramp.
Job 2 done :thumb:
3 notes - I don't have anything that could have cracked off the hub nut and 2 the exhaust manifold bolts are VERY corroded so didn't want to risk undoing these and round off or breaking one. I also dont have a joint splitter that would separate the bottom hub ball joint.
One thing; please don't ask me how long it took. 10 hours in a garage might be worth it unles you are up for a real challenge. I probably wont' do it this way again!
Next job AC condensers; hopefully a little more staight forward.
Got the new air con condensers and the drier fitted with no issues at all. Drier was a bit fiddly to get out of clamp so removed whole clamp. Just need a re-gas now.
Also have spotted some coolant leaking which I've posted another thread about but whilst trying to track it down I found the centre under tray is damaged and only 4 clips were fitted, 2 of which were pretty rotten. Also the 2 diagonal arms under the fuel tank were very corroded so brushed them off and gave them a coat of black paint. Did find a dent in the bottom of the luggage compartment well near where these two supports bolt in place so touched in the exposed metal as well. Put this a long way down ont eh nice to fix some time list.
Hopefully the only job to get through next MOT in a few months is 2 new headlamp washer assemblies.
Other tasks I've decided on it so swap out the CD holder in the lower centre console for an empty tray. You need somewhere to put a mobile phone these days; the other is to fit a new head unit with DAB and Bluetooth for music streaming but nothing flash. Both relatively cheap jobs whilst saving pennies for things like washer jets and cruise control.
Also have spotted some coolant leaking which I've posted another thread about but whilst trying to track it down I found the centre under tray is damaged and only 4 clips were fitted, 2 of which were pretty rotten. Also the 2 diagonal arms under the fuel tank were very corroded so brushed them off and gave them a coat of black paint. Did find a dent in the bottom of the luggage compartment well near where these two supports bolt in place so touched in the exposed metal as well. Put this a long way down ont eh nice to fix some time list.
Hopefully the only job to get through next MOT in a few months is 2 new headlamp washer assemblies.
Other tasks I've decided on it so swap out the CD holder in the lower centre console for an empty tray. You need somewhere to put a mobile phone these days; the other is to fit a new head unit with DAB and Bluetooth for music streaming but nothing flash. Both relatively cheap jobs whilst saving pennies for things like washer jets and cruise control.
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