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PRND all lit

Sorry young man .. i missed your last 2 posts so a catch up ..

Your air leak fault can be caused by a split breather pipe .. the corigated pipes that run near the mainifold , it can also be a corroded throttle body at the base .. you see the rubber seal in the Y piece .. check that for damage and check the throttle houseing were it sits .

The pin tabs .. it dont matter they are always broken .

Check the oil filler cap seal and lastly it could be the evap side but i would expect a fault code for that .

The Tip fault code i think refers to there being a Dme fault code basically .. i think the tip is reacting to the engine fault .

Ok the one bit i dont like .. that oil in the throttle houseing .. thats not normal , that strikes me as a turbo fault im afraid .. check the pipes either side of the Y piece .. is one damp but not the other ?

If so pull the map sensor on the damp side and see if its coated in oil .. that WILL cause issues .
 
Hi deMort,

Can I clarify if you meant MAP or MAF? If it is MAP sensors, can I ask where are they located? If its MAFs I couldn't remove them, I think I read somewhere its not a security 6 point Torx that I need but a 5 point tool.

The car doesn't seem to particularly consume oil, and although the tailpipes are black, its dry and not sticky, so it looks like its running rich. My Jeep and various MBs were known to have soo much oil in the intake it would drown the inlet motor, so even though those were turbodiesels wouldn't you expect some some oil to be there especially at over 120k miles?

My next action is to find a specialist I can book the car into for a health check to see if its worth spending money on, or to see if its a dud. I'm only concerned with the engine and transmission at this point. The engine I'd like to get boroscoped for scoring and valve condition, get the cylinder compression measured and check spark plug condition and identify any vacuum leaks and check gearbox for for external overall condition such as fluid leaks and to verify the levels are correct. May even get an emissions check as well. I could do a lot of that, but it would be handy for small claims action to have an independent report.

The engine condition is the biggest concern for me, as sometimes its a sounds a clacky on one side, and sometimes it doesn't. This clip is from a cold start.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8xx29yhso0dle8/VID_20180704_195159.mp4?dl=0

Ultimately the health check will determine my next move.
 
First off thats not a noise i would consider to be a bore problem , and yes they can suffer from this and normally bank 2 .

Rule of thumb , wip out the plugs and have a look on bank 2.

MAF are the sensors .. it doesnt have a MAP .. i might have posted the wrong bit in a previous post .. my bad if so .

if you pull off the Y piece connected to the throttle then look in the pipes leading from each side .. oil contamination on one side indicates a turbo problem .. if oil gets onto a maf sensor then it will give an incorrect reading .. it cant read the volume of air if it is coated in oil .

On a tester then you are looking for about 20 k/gh per .. or a reading of 1 volts ignition on but engine not running .
 
Ups and downs today

Ok decided to have one more check of the pipework today focusing at the back of the engine and guess what ... saw a hose not attached to anything. I found something for it to plug into, not sure what but there are electrical feeds running off of it. A run to Theford forest had PRND still light up, but perhaps that's because I didn't clear the existing codes. I checked the hose was still connected and cleared the codes. I didn't get PRND lit up on the return trip but doubt if I'm that lucky lol, although If anyone knows what it is I plugged into that'd be great.

I also decided to check the plugs on the side of the engine with the intermittent noise. Wasn't going to, but then I told myself its just an engine get on with it. The coils are BERU 0040102012 and seem in good enough condition.

I think the plugs looked pretty good, although one looked oily at the top which I assume is a failing gasket. Now I've gone that far, I may as well look at doing the compression testing, but I need to get a compression testing extension first.

I didn't think I was using oil, but I am. Porsche seem say that 1.5 litre per hundred ks is acceptable (1.58 quarts per 600 miles), I think I'm in that ball park, but will keep a record of future fills.

I also pulled the Y plenum again to check for oil as deMort is doing his best to depress me by saying I may have a leaking turbo, he's probably right :sad: although I'm hoping its the same side as the AOS that its just normal CCV function as I've read oil can accumulate in the pipework. If its a turbo leak its only a small one as that's a few hundred miles of travel for that TB oil residue and the plugs are not contaminated.

I didn't get any lean codes in the DME, or 1314 in Tiptronic driving back from Thetford, but did get a new shiny new code instead P0234 overboost (when my foot was in it :grin: ) , not worried about this yet, it can join the occasional P0011 Camshaft Position-Timing Over Advanced I get.

Current plan is still to get a specialist to look at the vehicle anyway but I'd like to look at the MAFs first.
 

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*FIXED*

For the 1st time I was able to commute to work and back and I still didn't get any lean codes in the DME, or 1314 in Tiptronic so reconnecting the hose did the trick.

Getting increasingly happy with engine tapping though !!!
 
Trust me i dont wish to depress you , unfortunately i do this for a living and i see the bad ones .. at the end of the day though im only guessing .. i cant see your car to access it .

Spark plug .. it wasnt tight enough or it didnt seal , thats normal blow back .. time to be concerned is when the plug tip itself is oily .

Any vacumn pipe detatched could well cause the air leak between maf and throttle so thats looking good.

Im going to defer on the oil in the Y peice the tapping noise and the oil usuage and let a garage look at it .. i have ideas but i think for now ive given enough bad news and would rather defer it to a garage to diagnose .


If you scroll back on this post .. its only you and me talking :(
 
That bad huh ...

I'm not too concerned about any turbo leak. Its old, its high mileage and as long as the oil consumption isn't excessive and it can pass the UK emission testing then I'm good with that.

The occasional tapping if its not bore scoring, perhaps a valve getting hit, timing chain/guide, etc as I think bank 1 is the side I'm getting the P0011 on. Assuming bank 1 is the side with the AOS. Went to start it up just now and the bloody thing is quiet again.

Be very interested to know what your thinking, and then see if my local(ish) specialist is interested or whether it'd be worth a trip further afield. I wont get depressed, I'll just get rid, or sue the trader. You definitely seem to be thinking its on the FUBAR end of the scale instead of water pump, actuators etc.

Its better to find out now then after sinking new tyres, brakes, turbos etc into it.

You rarely see a Cayenne in the UK; especially in Norfolk, so its never going to get too busy here, but hey I appreciate your help enormously.

I'd pay a certain amount to sort it, but don't want to get silly.
 
PRND all Lit

I have had an identical problem to the original poster on my 2006 Turbo S , same fault codes , PRND lights up after 20 mins of driving , no warning lights though and still drives perfectly . Fault turned out to be perforated intercooler on the drivers side , only discoved after removing the front bumper and smoke testing directly into air intake after plugging the water drain in;the air filter housing . Ended up having the intercooler re-cored after discovering Porsche wanted £1350 for a new one !!!
 

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